Knitting, Crochet, and Netting, with Twelve Illustrations
Date: 2011-07-09T00:00:00+00:00
Keywords: Knitting -- Patterns; Crocheting -- Patterns; Netting -- Patterns

The Project Gutenberg eBook of Knitting, Crochet, and Netting, with Twelve Illustrations

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Title: Knitting, Crochet, and Netting, with Twelve Illustrations

Author: Eléonore Riego de la Branchardière

Release date: July 9, 2011 [eBook #36669]
Most recently updated: January 7, 2021

Language: English

Credits: Produced by Julia Miller and the Online Distributed
Proofreading Team at https://www.pgdp.net (This file was
produced from images generously made available by The
Internet Archive)

*** START OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK KNITTING, CROCHET, AND NETTING, WITH TWELVE ILLUSTRATIONS ***

Transcriber’s Note

The illustrations were originally located after the table of contents. They have been moved to follow the patterns that they illustrate. Obvious typographical errors have been corrected. A list of corrections is found at the end of the text. The corrections listed on the errata page have been made in the text.

KNITTING,
CROCHET, AND NETTING,

WITH
TWELVE ILLUSTRATIONS.

BY

MLLE. RIEGO
DE LA BRANCHARDIERE,

Teacher of Fancy Works.

LONDON:
PUBLISHED BY S. KNIGHTS,
6, ’Change Alley, Cornhill.
1846.

[Registered at Stationers’ Hall.]

Price 2s. 6d.

Printed by Kelly & Pritchett, 32, Houndsditch, London.

TO LADY MARTINS,
THIS LITTLE WORK IS HUMBLY DEDICATED,
WITH HER KIND PERMISSION,
BY THE AUTHORESS.

PREFACE

The Authoress, having had much experience in teaching, and always writing her own directions, has been induced to publish this little Volume for the use of her pupils; and as all the receipts have been tried, she can with confidence answer for their accuracy. Should any further instructions be required, she will wait upon any Lady, who will apply at S. Knights, 6, ’Change Alley, Cornhill; Howell and James, Regent Street; and at all the principal Berlin shops.

CONTENTS.

KNITTING.

Terms used in Knitting

Manchette or Undersleeves

Vandyke Edging

Taie D’Oreiller

Davidoff Cap

Twelve D’Oyleys:—
Rosette Pattern
Pique Pattern
Chenee Pattern
Eglantier Pattern
Tablette Pattern
Plume Pattern
Mimosa Pattern
Lattice Pattern
Lady Bruce’s Pattern
Festoon Pattern
Target Pattern
Arabesque Pattern

Knitted Purse

Anti Macassar

Shetland Shawl

Vandyke Edging

Turkish Pattern Muff

Pelerine

Foot Muff

Driving Mitts

Point Lace Edging

Scollop Edging

Diamond Edging

Treble Diamond Edging

Fringe for D’Oyleys

Travelling Cap

Shetland Scarf

Petit Point Quilt or Table Cover

Border for Quilt

Baby’s Socks

Square Shawl

Border for Shawl

Polka

Child’s Frock

Carriage Mat

Réseau Quilt

Fringe for Quilt

CROCHET.

Terms used in Crochet

Shepherd’s Crochet

Double Crochet

Treble Crochet

Crochet In two colors

Six Round D’Oyleys:—
Diamond Pattern
Damier Pattern
Trellis Pattern
Filet Pattern
Scollop Pattern
Seme Pattern

Fringe for D’Oyleys

Scollop for D’Oyleys

Wheel Pattern Insertion

Ecaille Pattern Edging

Open Vandyke Edging

Close Vandyke Edging

Double Scollop Edging

Diamond Insertion

Cuffs, Diamond Pattern

Edge for Cuffs

Crochet Collar

Round Sofa Pillow

Bead Crochet

Handsome Bead Purse

Bead Purse

Table Cover in Squares

Bell Pulls

Greek Cap

Card Case

Bag

Square Sofa Pillow

Half-square Shawl

Another Shawl

Crochet Shoes

Sole for Shoes

Crochet Open Purse

Shamrock Purse

Honey Comb Edging

Anti-Macassar

Travelling Bag

Table Cover

A Chain

Cap

NETTING.

Anti-Macassar

D’Oyley

Bread Basket D’Oyley

Netted Purse

Purse for a Lady

Bead Purse

Wedding Purse with Motto

Plain Purse with Motto

TERMS USED IN KNITTING.

Cast on—Make a loop on 1 pin, and with the other pin knit a plain stitch without taking it off, pass it on to the left pin and repeat.

Cast off—Knit 2 stitches, pass the 1st stitch knitted over the 2nd, knit 1, turn the 2nd stitch over the last, and repeat to the end; then cut off the cotton and draw it through to fasten it.

The 1st stitch of every row should be slipped.

To make round after casting on 3 pins with the 4th pin, knit the 1st stitch cast on.

In purling a row, the wool should be in front of the pin. When there are purl and plain stitches in a row, bring the cotton forward to purl, and pass it back before knitting the plain stitch.

To knit 3 together—Slip a stitch, knit 2 together, turn the slipped stitch over them, leaving but 1 stitch.

A slipped stitch should always be taken off the purl way.

To purl, is to put the pin the contrary way to knitting plain; in knitting, the pin is put up the stitch, in purling it is put down.

When this mark (*) occurs in a row, the stitches before it are not to be repeated in the row, being merely the edge stitches to prevent the work from decreasing; thus, when knit 3 together is in a row, the row generally begins with knit 2 together, and ends the same.

The stitch over in many of the patterns, is always knitted as the 1st stitch, as many patterns end with make 1, it could not be done without this stitch.

Many ladies in working a pattern, copy on cards each row separately; this prevents confusing one row with another.

The stitches between the mark, thus (knit 2 together 3 times) are worked, knit 2 together, knit 2 together, knit 2 together; this prevents useless repetition.

The pins and meshes are all gauged by the standard or wire-drawer’s gauge.

To raise stitches—Put the pin in the selvedge or side of the knitting, put the wool round the pin as in knitting, and bring it through, so as to form a stitch.

To make a stitch—Bring the wool forward between the needles.

KNITTING.

Manchette or Undersleeves.

In 2 colors of Berlin wool.

Pins 19, 17, 11, 1 pair of each, with the colored wool cast on with 19 pins, 66 stitches.

1st row—Purl 1, knit 1.

2nd row—Knit 1, purl 1.

Repeat these 2 rows 4 times more, making in all 10 rows, then join on the white wool, and with No. 11 pins, knit 1 plain row.

12th row—Make 1, knit 2 together.

Repeat the last 2 rows 11 times more, making in all 24 of white; then the color, with No. 17 pins, knit the first 10 rows, join on white, with No. 11 pins, knit the 24 rows of white as before; then with colored wool, No. 17 pins, knit the first 10 rows and cast off; finish at the commencement with vandyke edge as follows.

Vandyke Edging.

Pins No. 11, white wool, cast on 6 stitches.

1st row—Slip 1, knit 1, make 1, knit 2 together, make 2, knit 2 together.

2nd row—Make 1, knit 2, purl 1, knit 4.

3rd row—Slip 1, knit 1, make 1, knit 2 together, knit 4.

4th row—Plain.

5th row—Slip 1, knit 1, make 1, knit 2 together, make 2, knit 2 together, make 2, knit 2 together.

6th row—Slip 1, knit 1, purl 1, knit 2, purl 1, knit 4.

7th row—Slip 1, knit 1, make 1, knit 2 together, knit 6.

8th row—Cast off all but 6 stitches, knit them plain, and commence at 1st row.

For each sleeve 10 Vandykes are required.

To make 2 stitches is to put the wool twice round the pin.

Taie D’Oreiller.

In Shetland Wool.

This pillow is lined with pink or blue satin.

Pins 8, cast on 89 stitches, or 12 for each pattern, and 1 over.

1st row—Knit 2 together, * knit 2, make 1, knit 2 together, make 1, knit 1, make 1, knit 2 together, make 1, knit 2, knit 3 together, repeat from mark; at the end of this row, make 1, knit 2 together.

2nd row—Purl.

3rd row—Knit 2 together, * knit 1, make 1, knit 2 together, make 1, knit 3, make 1, knit 2 together, make 1, knit 1, knit 3 together.

4th row—Purl.

5th row—Knit 2 together, * make 1, knit 2 together, make 1, knit 5, make 1, knit 2 together, make 1, knit 3 together.

6th row—Purl.

7th row—Knit 1, make 1, knit 2 together, make 1, knit 2, knit 3 together, knit 2, make 1, knit 2 together, make 1.

8th row—Purl.

9th row—Knit 2, make 1, knit 2 together, make 1, knit 1, knit 3 together, knit 1, make 1, knit 2 together, make 1, knit 1.

10th row—Purl.

11th row—Knit 3, make 1, knit 2 together, make 1, knit 3 together, make 1, knit 2 together, make 1, knit 2.

12th row—Purl.

Work until square, and finish with a vandyke edge in the same wool, and No. 10 pins.

The Davidoff Cap.

Border white with black spots, middle violet or scarlet, pins No. 8, Berlin wool, cast on 116 stitches.

With white knit 4 rows plain.

5th row—Black and white, knit 1 black stitch and 3 white.

6th row—3 white, bring the white forward, pass the black to the back, knit 1, bring the black forward, pass the white to the back, repeat, knit 4 rows plain of white.

11th row—Black and white, knit 2 white, and repeat the 5th row.

12th row—1 white, bring the wool forward, pass the black to the back, knit 1, bring the black forward, pass the white to the back, and repeat the 6th row; repeat from 1st row once more; this finishes the border. With violet wool begin at the other end of the pins.

1st row—Make 1, knit 2 together.

2nd and 3rd rows—Plain.

4th row—Purl.

Repeat these 4 rows, knitting 2 together at the beginning of every row, 12 times; cast off. With white wool, raise 120 stitches round the violet, to form the border at the back, and knit the same as the first pattern.

Cast off, and finish with ribbon, or cord, and tassels to match.

Set of Twelve D’Oyleys,

These patterns are suited for Anti-Macassars, Bread D’Oyleys, Shawls, &c.

Pins No. 18, Cotton No. 14.

ROSETTE PATTERN.

Cast on 73 stitches, or 8 for each pattern, and 1 at the end.

1st row—Knit 2, knit 2 together, make 1, knit 1, make 1, knit 2 together, knit 1, repeat, at end of row knit 1 more.

2nd row—Purl.

3rd row—Knit 1, knit 2 together, make 1, knit 3, make 1, knit 2 together.

4th row—Purl.

5th row—Knit 3, make 1, knit 3 together, make 1, knit 2.

6th row—Purl.

7th row—Knit 1, make 1, knit 2 together, knit 3, knit 2 together, make 1.

8th row—Purl.

9th row—Knit 2, make 1, knit 2 together, knit 1, knit 2 together, make 1, knit 1.

10th row—Purl.

11th row—Knit 2 together, * make 1, knit 5, make 1, knit 3 together, repeat from mark; at the end of the row make 1, knit 2 together.

12th row—Purl

PIQUE PATTERN.

Cast on 73 stitches, or 8 for each pattern, and 1 over.

1st row—Knit 2, knit 2 together, make 1, knit 1, make 1, knit 2 together, knit 1, at the end of row knit 1.

2nd row—Purl.

3rd row—Knit 1, knit 2 together, make 1, knit 3, make 1, knit 2 together.

4th row—Purl.

5th row—Knit 2, make 1, knit 1, knit 2 together, knit 2, make 1, knit 1.

6th row—Purl.

7th row—Knit 2 together, * make 1, knit 1, knit 2 together, make 1, knit 2 together, knit 1, make 1, knit 3 together, repeat from mark, at end of row make 1, knit 2 together.

8th row—Purl.

CHENEE PATTERN.

Cast on 73 stitches, or 6 for each pattern, and 1 over.

1st row—Knit 1, knit 2 together, make 1, knit 1, make 1, knit 2 together, at end of row knit 1.

2nd row—Make 1, knit 3 together, make 1, knit 1, make 1, knit 2 together.

3rd row—Knit 1, knit 2 together, make 1, knit 1, make 1, knit 2 together.

4th row—Knit 2 together, * make 1, knit 3, make 1, knit 3 together, at the end of row make 1, knit 2 together.

5th row—Knit 1, make 1, knit 2 together, knit 1, knit 2 together, make 1.

6th row—Knit 1, make 1, knit 2 together, make 1, knit 3 together, make 1.

7th row—Knit 1, make 1, knit 2 together, knit 1, knit 2 together, make 1.

8th row—Knit 2, make 1, knit 3 together, make 1, knit 1.

EGLANTIER PATTERN.

Cast on 73 stitches, or 8 for each pattern, and 1 over.

1st row—Knit 2 together, * knit 2, make 1, knit 1, make 1, knit 2, knit 3 together, repeat from mark, at end of these rows knit 2 together.

2nd row—Purl.

3rd row—Knit 2 together, * knit 1, make 1, knit 3, make 1, knit 1, knit 3 together, repeat from mark.

4th row—Purl.

5th row—Knit 2 together, * make 1, knit 5, make 1, knit 3 together, repeat from mark.

6th row—Purl.

7th row—Knit 1, make 1, knit 2, knit 3 together, knit 2, make 1.

8th row—Purl.

9th row—Knit 2, make 1, knit 1, knit 3 together, knit 1, make 1, knit 1.

10th row—Purl.

11th row—Knit 3, make 1, knit 3 together, make 1, knit 2.

12th row—Purl.

TABLETTE PATTERN.

Cast on 73 stitches, or 6 for each pattern, and 1 over.

1st row—Knit 2 together, * make 1, knit 3, make 1, knit 3 together, repeat from mark, at end of row make 1, knit 2 together.

2nd row—Plain.

3rd row—Knit 1, make 1, knit 2 together, knit 1, knit 2 together, make 1.

4th row—Plain; repeat the 2 last rows twice more, in all 6 rows.

9th row—Knit 2, make 1, knit 3 together, make 1, knit 1.

10th row—Plain.

11th row—Knit 1, knit 2 together, make 1, knit 1, make 1, knit 2 together.

12th row—Plain.

Repeat the 2 last rows twice more, and commence at 1st row.

PLUME PATTERN.

Cast on 73 stitches, or 8 for each pattern, and 1 over.

1st row—Knit 2 together, * knit 2, make 1, knit 1, make 1, knit 2, knit 3 together, repeat from mark; at the end of the row knit 2 together.

2nd row—Purl; repeat these 2 rows twice more.

7th row—Knit 2 together, * knit 1, make 1, knit 3, make 1, knit 1, knit 3 together; repeat from mark.

8th row—Purl.

9th row—Knit 2 together, * make 1, knit 5, make 1, knit 3 together.

10th, 11th, and 12th rows—Plain.

13th row—Knit 1, make 1, knit 2, knit 3 together, knit 2, make 1.

14th row—Purl; repeat the 2 last rows twice more.

19th row—Knit 2, make 1, knit 1, knit 3 together, knit 1, make 1, knit 1.

20th row—Purl.

21st row—Knit 3, make 1, knit 3 together, make 1, knit 2.

22nd, 23rd, and 24th rows—Plain.

MIMOSA PATTERN.

Cast on 72 stitches, or 14 for each pattern, and 2 over.

1st row—Purl 2, knit 3 together, knit 6, purl 2, make 1, knit 1, make 1; at the end of row purl 2.

2nd row—Knit 2, purl 3, knit 2, purl 7; at end of row knit 2.

3rd row—Purl 2, knit 3 together, knit 4, purl 2, knit 1, make 1, knit 1, make 1, knit 1.

4th row—Knit 2, purl 5.

5th row—Purl 2, knit 3 together, knit 2, purl 2, knit 2, make 1, knit 1, make 1, knit 2.

6th row—Knit 2, purl 7, knit 2, purl 3.

7th row—Purl 2, knit 3 together, purl 2, knit 3, make 1, knit 1, make 1, knit 3.

8th row—Knit 2, purl 9, knit 2, purl 1.

9th row—Purl 2, make 1, knit 1, make 1, purl 2, knit 3 together, knit 6.

10th row—Knit 2, purl 7, knit 2, purl 3.

11th row—Purl 2, knit 1, make 1, knit 1, make 1, knit 1, purl 2, knit 3 together, knit 4.

12th row—Knit 2, purl 5.

13th row—Purl 2, knit 2, make 1, knit 1, make 1, knit 2, purl 2, knit 3 together, knit 2.

14th row—Knit 2, purl 3, knit 2, purl 7.

15th row—Purl 2, knit 3, make 1, knit 1, make 1, knit 3, purl 2, knit 3 together.

16th row—Knit 2, purl 1, knit 2, purl 9.

LATTICE PATTERN.

Cast on 72 stitches, or 8 for each pattern.

1st row—Knit 1, (make 1, knit 2 together twice,) knit 3.

2nd row—Plain.

3rd row—Knit 2, (make 1, knit 2 together twice,) knit 2.

4th row—Plain.

5th row—Knit 3, (make 1, knit 2 together twice,) knit 1.

6th row—Plain.

7th row—Knit 4, (make 1, knit 2 together twice.)

8th row—Plain.

9th row—Knit 2, (knit 2 together, make 1 twice,) knit 2.

10th row—Plain.

11th row—Knit 1, (knit 2 together, make 1 twice,) knit 3.

12th row—Plain.

13th row—(Knit 2 together, make 1 twice,) knit 4.

14th row—Plain.

LADY BRUCE’S PATTERN.

Cast on 74 stitches, or 10 for each pattern, and 4 over.

1st row—Knit 2, knit 2 together, make 1, knit 1, make 1, knit 2 together, make 1, knit 2 together, knit 1; at end of row knit 4, beside the pattern.

2nd row—Purl.

3rd row—Knit 1, knit 2 together, make 1, knit 3, make 1, knit 2 together, make 1, knit 2 together; at end of row knit 4.

4th row—Purl.

5th row—Knit 2 together, * make 1, knit 5, make 1, knit 2 together, make 1, knit 3 together, repeat from mark; at end of row instead of knitting 3 together, make 1, knit 2 together, knit 3.

6th row—Purl.

7th row—Make 1, knit 2 together, knit 3, knit 2 together, make 1, knit 2 together, make 1, knit 1; at end of row knit 2 together, knit 2.

8th row—Purl.

9th row—Knit 1, make 1, knit 2 together, knit 1, knit 2 together, make 1, knit 2 together, make 1, knit 2; at end of row knit 1, make 1, knit 2 together, knit 1.

10th row—Purl.

11th row—Knit 2, make 1, knit 3 together, make 1, knit 2 together, make 1, knit 3; at end of row knit 2, make 1, knit 2 together.

12th row—Purl.

FESTOON PATTERN.

Cast on 72 stitches, or 12 for each pattern.

1st row—Purl 1, (knit 2 together twice,) (make 1, knit 1, 3 times,) make 1, (knit 2 together twice.)

2nd row—Purl 11, knit 1.

TARGET PATTERN.

Cast on 73 stitches, or 6 for each pattern, and 1 over.

1st row—Knit 2, make 1, knit 3 together, make 1, knit 1; at end of row knit 1 plain.

2nd row—Plain.

3rd row—Knit 2 together, * make 1, knit 3, make 1, knit 3 together; repeat from mark at end of row, make 1, knit 2 together.

4th row—Plain.

ARABESQUE PATTERN.

Cast on 69 stitches, or 13 for each pattern, and 4 over.

1st row—knit 2, make 1, knit 2 together, make 1, knit 3, knit 3 together, knit 3, make 1; knit the last 4 stitches the same as 1st 4 every row.

2nd row—Knit 2, make 1, knit 2 together, purl 1, make 1, purl 2, purl 3 together, purl 2, make 1, purl 1.

3rd row—Knit 2, make 1, knit 2 together, knit 2, make 1, knit 1, knit 3 together, knit 1, make 1, knit 2.

4th row—Knit 2, make 1, knit 2 together, purl 3, make 1, purl 3 together, make 1, purl 3.

Finish them with fringe or scollop edging.

Knitted Purse.

Pins No. 18, coarse netting silk No. 6, steel beads, thread the beads on the silk, cast on 61 stitches.

1st row—Make 1, knit 2 together; at end of row knit 1 plain.

2nd row—Make 1, slip 2 beads down close to the pin, knit 2 together; at end of row knit 1 plain.

Repeat these 2 rows until there are 8 inches cast off, and sew up 2-3/4 inches on each side, leaving 2-1/2 inches for the opening.

The long bead tassels suit this purse best.

Anti-Macassar

Pins No. 12, cotton No. 12, cast on 118 stitches, or 19 for each pattern.

1st row—Knit 2, make 1, knit 2 together, make 1, knit 1, knit 2 together, purl 1, knit 2 together, knit 1, purl 1, knit 1, knit 2 together, purl 1, knit 2 together, knit 1, make 1; at the end of every row knit 2, make 1, knit 2 together.

2nd row—Knit 2, make 1, knit 2 together, purl 3, knit 1, purl 2, knit 1, purl 2, knit 1, purl 3.

3rd row—Knit 2, make 1, knit 2 together, make 1, knit 1, make 1, (knit 2 together, purl 1, 3 times,) knit 2 together, make 1, knit 1, make 1.

4th row—Knit 2, make 1, knit 2 together, purl 4, knit 1, purl 1, knit 1, purl 1, knit 1, purl 4.

5th row—Knit 2, make 1, knit 2 together, make 1, knit 3, make 1, knit 3 together, purl 1, knit 3 together, make 1, knit 3, make 1.

6th row—Knit 2, make 1, knit 2 together, purl 6, knit 1, purl 6.

7th row—Knit 2, make 1, knit 2 together, make 1, knit 5, make 1, knit 3 together, make 1, knit 5, make 1.

8th row—Knit 2, make 1, knit 2 together, purl 15; finish with fringe.

Shetland Shawl.

This shawl may be worked with a colored border.

Diamond border and leaf pattern middle. Pins No. 6, cast on 336 stitches.

BORDER.

1st row—Knit 5, knit 2 together, make 1, knit 1, make 1, knit 2 together, knit 6.

2nd row—Plain.

3rd row—Knit 4, knit 2 together, make 1, knit 3, make 1, knit 2 together, knit 5.

4th row—Plain.

5th row—Knit 3, knit 2 together, make 1, knit 2, make 1, knit 2 together, knit 1, make 1, knit 2 together, knit 4.

6th row—Plain.

7th row—Knit 2, knit 2 together, make 1, knit 1, knit 2 together, make 1, knit 1, make 1, knit 2 together, knit 1, make 1, knit 2 together, knit 3.

8th row—Plain.

9th row—Knit 1, knit 2 together, make 1, knit 1, knit 2 together, make 1, knit 3, make 1, knit 2 together, knit 1, make 1, knit 2 together, knit 2.

10th row—Plain.

11th row—Knit 2 together, make 1, knit 1, knit 2 together, make 1, knit 1, knit 2 together, make 1, knit 2, make 1, knit 2 together, knit 1, make 1, knit 2 together, knit 1.

12th row—Plain.

13th row—Knit 2, make 1, knit 2 together, knit 1, make 1, knit 2 together, knit 1, knit 2 together, make 1, knit 1, knit 2 together, make 1, knit 3.

14th row—Plain.

15th row—Knit 3, make 1, knit 2 together, knit 1, make 1, knit 3 together, make 1, knit 1, knit 2 together, make 1, knit 4.

16th row—Plain.

17th row—Knit 4, make 1, knit 2 together, knit 3, knit 2 together, make 1, knit 5.

18th row—Plain.

19th row—Knit 5, make 1, knit 2 together, knit 1, knit 2 together, make 1, knit 6.

20th row—Plain.

21st row—Knit 6, make 1, knit 3 together, make 1, knit 7.

22nd row—Plain.

Repeat this pattern once more, then with a needle and thread, take 32 stitches off the pin; these stitches are to be left for the side border. With the white wool knit 272 stitches plain, leaving 32 stitches for the other side; fasten them, and commence the

MIDDLE.

1st row—Slip 1, knit 1, turn the slipped stitch over the knitted 1, knit 2, make 1, knit 2 together, make 1, knit 1, make 1, knit 2 together, make 1, knit 2, knit 2 together.

2nd row—Purl.

3rd row—Slip 1, knit 1, turn the slipped stitch over it, knit 1, make 1, knit 2 together, make 1, knit 3, make 1, knit 2 together, make 1, knit 1, knit 2 together.

4th row—Purl.

5th row—Slip 1, knit 1, turn over, make 1, knit 2 together, make 1, knit 5, make 1, knit 2 together, make 1, knit 2 together.

6th row—Purl.

7th row—Knit 1, * make 1, knit 2 together, make 1, knit 2, knit 2 together, knit 3, make 1, knit 2 together, make 1, knit 2 together; repeat from mark.

8th row—Purl.

9th row—Knit 1, make 1, knit 2 together, make 1, knit 2, knit 2 together, slip 1, knit 1, turn over, knit 2, make 1, knit 2 together, make 1.

10th row—Purl.

11th row—Knit 2, make 1, knit 2 together, make 1, knit 1, knit 2 together, slip 1, knit 1, turn over, knit 1, make 1, knit 2 together, make 1, knit 1.

12th row—Purl.

13th row—Knit 3, make 1, knit 2 together, make 1, knit 2 together, slip 1, knit 1, turn over, make 1, knit 2 together, make 1, knit 2.

14th row—Purl.

15th row—Knit 2 together, knit 2, (make 1, knit 2 together, 3 times,) make 1, knit 3.

16th row—Purl.

Repeat this pattern until the middle is square; then knit the sides the same as the first pattern, until the same length as the middle, sew them to it, and put all the stitches on 1 pin; then knit the border the same as commencement. Finish with the following fringe.

Vandyke fringe for Shetland Shawl.

Pins No. 9, cast on 11 stitches.

1st row—Make 1, knit 2 together 5 times, make 1, knit 1.

2nd row—Plain.

3rd row—Make 1, knit 2 together 5 times, make 1, knit 2.

4th row—Plain.

5th row—Make 1, knit 2 together 5 times, make 1, knit 3.

6th row—Plain.

Repeat the 2 last rows until there are 9 plain stitches.

19th row—Knit 2 together, make 1, 5 times, knit 2 together, knit 8.

20th row—Plain.

21st row—Knit 2 together, make 1, 5 times, knit 2 together, knit 7.

22nd row—Plain.

Repeat these 2 rows until there are 11 on the pin, then repeat from 1st row; when sufficient is made in the plain row, cast off 7 stitches, leaving 4 to be pulled out for the fringe.

Turkish Pattern for a Muff.

Double Berlin wool, 2 colors, black and gold.

Pins No. 11, cast on 28 stitches on each of 3 pins.

1st round—Gold color, leaving the wool in front of pin, slip 1, pass the wool round the pin so as to bring it in front, purl 2 together.

2nd round—Black, knit 1, (this is a black stitch,) slip 1, (a gold loop,) knit 1.

3rd round—Same as 2nd; at the end of this round, take the last stitch off the right hand pin, and put it on the left; repeat from 1st round.

Pelerine.

Double Berlin wool, scarlet or blue middle, white and black border, in imitation of Minerva, pins No. 6, cast on 8 stitches with scarlet.

1st row—Slip 1, knit 1, * make 1, knit 2, repeat from mark.

2nd row—Purl.

3rd row—Slip 1, knit 1, make 1, knit 2, make 1, slip 1, knit 2, turn the slipped stitch over the 2 knitted, (make 1, knit 2 twice.)

4th row—Purl.

5th row—Slip 1, knit 1, make 1, knit 2; these are the edge stitches, and therefore not repeated in the row. Make 1, slip 1, knit 2, turn the slipped stitch over, and repeat until the last 4 stitches; then make 1, knit 2 twice.

Repeat the last 2 rows, until there are 120 stitches on the pin, knit a purl row, next row knit the edge stitches and 15 patterns, (or 50 stitches); cast off 24 stitches, and, with another pin, finish the row. This finishes the back.

The ends are then decreased in the following manner:

The wool is now at the left side, leave the 50 stitches on the other pin, and work the other 50, thus:

1st row—Purl, at the end of row purl 2 together.

2nd row—Slip 1, knit 2, turn over, repeat the pattern to the end.

3rd row—As 1st.

4th row—The same as 2nd; at the end make 1, knit 1.

Repeat these 4 rows until there are but 3 stitches, cast off, and commence the other side.

1st row—Purl 2 together, purl the rest.

2nd row—Commence with pattern.

3rd row—Same as first.

4th row—Knit 2 together, and repeat pattern.

Repeat these 4 rows until finished.

For the border, white wool, raise 180 stitches from the outside selvedge.

1st row—Make 1, purl 2, repeat.

2nd row—Pattern.

3rd row—Purl.

4th row—Pattern.

5th row—Purl.

6th row—Pattern.

7th row—Make 1, purl 6.

8th row—Make 1, slip 1, knit 2, turn over, make 1, slip 1, knit 3, turn over, repeat.

9th row—Purl.

10th row—Same as 8th.

11th row—Purl, cast off.

Raise 120 stitches, with white, on the wrong side, round the neck, and work as the white border. For the tufts, cut black wool in pieces of 1-1/2 inch, take 3 pieces, and sew them alternately on the border.

Plaid Foot Muff.

Scarlet, dark blue, and green 4-thread fleecy.

Pins No. 8, cast on 108 stitches in scarlet.

1st row—Plain.

2nd row—Purl.

3rd row—Green, purl.

4th row—Blue, slip 2, knit 4.

5th row—Blue, purl 4, slip 2.

6th row—Blue, slip 2, purl 4.

7th row—Blue, purl 4, slip 2.

8th row—Green, plain.

9th row—Scarlet, purl.

10th row—Scarlet, purl.

11th row—Scarlet, plain.

12th row—Green, purl.

13th row—Blue, knit 3, slip 2, knit 1.

14th row—Blue, purl 1, slip 2, purl 3.

15th row—Same as 13th.

16th row—Same as 14th.

17th row—Green, plain.

18th row—Scarlet, plain.

Repeat until square, cast off. For the side, cast on 24 stitches, and knit sufficient to go round 3 sides of the square.

FOR THE LINING.

With white wool, cast 102 stitches; make 1, slip 1, knit 2 together, repeat until square; work 2 pieces. Cut 2 pieces of mill board the size of the square, and 1 for the side; stretch the work on 1, and cover the other with cloth, stuffed with fine combed wool, and finish with roleau and cord.

Driving Mitts.

4 Pins No. 15, 4-thread fleecy, cast on 18 stitches on each of 2 pins, and 20 on the 3rd.

1st round—Knit 2, purl 2, for 20 rounds.

21st round—Plain.

22nd round—Purl 1, knit 3.

23rd round—Plain.

24th round—Knit 2, purl 1, knit 1.

The last 4 rounds form the pattern, and are worked throughout the mitts.

25th round—Purl 1, make 1, knit 2, make 1, purl 1, this is for the thumb; knit the rest of round plain.

Knit 4 rounds, (or 1 pattern,) purling the 1st and 6th stitches.

30th round—Purl 1, make 1, knit 4, make 1, purl 1, knit the rest to pattern.

Knit 3 rounds, and continue increasing for the thumb, every 4th round working the pattern on the thumb; continue until there are 14 stitches on the thumb, knit 2 patterns without increasing; then leave the 14 stitches, or fasten them with a needle and thread; cast on 7 stitches, and knit 5 patterns, then purl 2, knit 2 for 12 rounds, cast off, put the 14 stitches on 2 pins, take up the 7 stitches, cast on, and knit 5 rounds of pattern, purl 2, knit 2 for 12 rounds, cast off.

Knit the other mitt exactly the same.

Point Lace Edging.

Pins No. 19, boar’s head cotton 34, cast on 15 stitches.

1st row—Knit 2, make 1, (knit 2 together twice,) make 1, knit 1, make 1, knit 2 together, knit 2, make 1, knit 1, make 1, knit 3.

2nd row—Make 1, knit 2 together, knit 1, make 1, knit 3, make 1, knit 3 together, make 1, knit 3, make 1, knit 2 together, knit 1, make 1, knit 2 together.

3rd row—Knit 2, make 1, knit 2 together, make 1, knit 2 together, knit 1, knit 2 together, make 1, knit 1, make 1, knit 2 together, knit 2, make 1, knit 4.

4th row—Make 1, knit 2 together, knit 2, (make 1, knit 2 together, make 1, knit 3 together, make 1, knit 1, twice,) knit 1, make 1, knit 2 together.

5th row—Knit 2, make 1, knit 2 together, make 1, knit 2 together, knit 1, knit 2 together, make 1, knit 1, make 1, knit 2 together, knit 2, make 1, knit 1, make 1, knit 2 together, knit 2.

6th row—Make 1, knit 2 together, knit 1, (make 1, knit 3, make 1, knit 3 together, twice,) make 1, knit 3, make 1, knit 2 together.

7th row—Knit 2, make 1, knit 2 together, (knit 2 together, make 1, knit 1, make 1, knit 2 together, knit 1, twice,) knit 1, make 1, knit 2 together, knit 2.

8th row—Make 1, knit 2 together, (knit 1, make 1, knit 2 together, make 1, knit 3 together, make 1, twice,) knit 1, make 1, knit 2 together, knit 2, make 1, knit 2 together.

9th row—Same as 7th row.

10th row—Make 1, (knit 2 together twice,) (make 1, knit 3 together, make 1, knit 3, twice,) make 1, knit 2 together, knit 1, make 1, knit 2 together.

11th row—Knit 2, (make 1, knit 2 together, make 1, knit 2 together, knit 1, knit 2 together, make 1, knit 1, twice,) knit 2 together, knit 2.

12th row—Make 1, (knit 2 together twice,) (make 1, knit 2 together, make 1, knit 3 together, make 1, knit 1, twice,) knit 1, make 1, knit 2 together.

13th row—Knit 2, make 1, knit 2 together, make 1, knit 2 together, knit 1, knit 2 together, make 1, knit 1, (make 1, knit 2 together, knit 2, twice.)

14th row—Make 1, (knit 2 together twice,) (make 1, knit 3 together, make 1, knit 3, twice,) make 1, knit 2 together.

15th row—Knit 2, make 1, (knit 2 together twice,) make 1, knit 1, make 1, knit 2 together, knit 1, knit 2 together, make 1, knit 2 together, knit 3.

16th row—Make 1, (knit 2 together twice,) make 1, knit 2 together, make 1, knit 3 together, make 1, knit 1, make 1, knit 2 together, knit 2, make 1, knit 2 together.

Scollop Edging.

Pins No. 18, boar’s head cotton No. 24, cast on 8 stitches.

1st row—Knit 3, make 1, knit 2 together, knit 3.

2nd row—Knit 2, make 1, knit 3, make 1, knit 2 together, knit 1.

3rd row—Knit 3, make 1, knit 2 together, knit 4.

4th row—Knit 2, make 1, knit 2 together, make 1, knit 2, make 1, knit 2 together, knit 1.

5th row—The same as 1st row, knitting 1 plain stitch more.

6th row—Knit 2, make 1, knit 2 together, make 1, knit 3, make 1, knit 2 together, knit 1.

7th row—The same as 5th.

8th row—Knit 2, (make 1, knit 2 together twice,) make 1, knit 2, make 1, knit 2 together, knit 1.

9th row—Same as 5th.

10th row—Knit 2, (make 1, knit 2 together twice,) make 1, knit 3, make 1, knit 2 together, knit 1.

11th row—Same as 5th.

12th row—Knit 2, (make 1, knit 2 together, 3 times,) make 1, knit 2, make 1, knit 2 together, knit 1.

13th row—Same as 5th.

14th row—Knit 2, (make 1, knit 2 together, 3 times,) make 1, knit 3, make 1, knit 2 together, knit 1.

15th row—Same as 11th.

16th row—Knit 2, knit 2 together, (make 1, knit 2 together, 3 times,) knit 1, make 1, knit 2 together, knit 1.

17th row—Same as 9th.

18th row—Knit 2, knit 2 together, (make 1, knit 2 together, twice,) knit 2, make 1, knit 2 together, knit 1.

19th row—Same as 7th.

20th row—Knit 2, knit 2 together, (make 1, knit 2 together, twice,) knit 1, make 1, knit 2 together, knit 1.

21st row—Same as 5th.

22nd row—Knit 2, knit 2 together, make 1, knit 2 together, knit 2, make 1, knit 2 together, knit 1.

23rd row—Same as 3rd.

24th row—Knit 2, make 1, knit 2 together, knit 1, make 1, knit 2 together, knit 1.

Diamond Edging.

Pins No. 17, boar’s head cotton No. 20, cast on 7 stitches.

1st row—Make 1, knit 3 together, make 1, knit 1, knit 2 together, knit 1.

2nd row—Plain.

3rd row—Make 1, knit 2 together, make 1, knit 3, make 1, knit 2.

4th row—Plain.

5th row—Make 1, knit 2 together, make 1, knit 5, make 1, knit 2.

6th row—Plain.

7th row—Make 1, knit 3 together, make 1, knit 2 together, knit 1, knit 2 together, make 1, knit 2 together, knit 1.

8th row—Plain.

9th row—(Make 1, knit 3 together, twice,) make 1, knit 2 together, knit 1.

10th row—Plain.

11th row—Make 1, knit 3 together, make 1, knit 1, make 1, knit 2 together, knit 1.

12th row—Plain.

Treble Diamond Edging.

Cast on 7 stitches, Pins No. 17, cotton No. 20.

1st row—Knit 1, knit 2 together, make 1, knit 1, make 1, knit 2 together, knit 1.

2nd row—Make 1, knit 2 together, knit the rest plain.

3rd row—Knit 2, make 1, knit 3, make 1, knit 2.

4th row—Same as 2nd.

5th row—Knit 1, knit 2 together, make 1, knit 3 together, make 1, knit 1, make 1, knit 2.

6th row—Same as 2nd.

7th row—Knit 1, knit 2 together, make 1, knit 1, make 1, knit 3, make 1, knit 2.

8th row—Same as 2nd.

9th row—Knit 2, make 1, knit 3, make 1, knit 3 together, make 1, knit 2 together, knit 1.

10th row—Same as 2nd.

11th row—Knit 1, knit 2 together, make 1, knit 3 together, make 1, knit 3 together, knit 2 together.

12th row—Same as 2nd.

Fringe for D’Oyleys.

Pins No. 19, double cotton, cast on 8 stitches.

1st row—Knit 2, make 1, knit 2 together.

All the rows are the same; when finished, cast off 5 stitches, leaving 3 to be pulled out for the fringe.

Travelling Cap.

2 Colors, double Berlin wool, Pins No. 8, cast on 121 stitches.

1st row—Colored, purl.

2nd row—Plain.

3rd row—Purl.

4th row—White, purl.

5th row—Make 1, knit 2 together.

Repeat the last 2 rows 3 times more.

13th row—Colored, purl.

14th row—Purl.

15th row—Plain.

16th row—White, purl.

17th row—Knit 2 together, make 1.

Repeat the 2 last rows 3 times more; work from 1st row once more; there will now be 4 ribs of colored: this is for the front. Commence at the other end of the pin, and knit 4 colored ribs; this will make the pattern come on the wrong side. Knit 96 stitches, leaving 25 on the pin, turn back, knit 71, turn back, leaving 25 on the other side; knit 6 ribs of 71 stitches, then put all the stitches on 1 pin, and knit 4 ribs all along; cast off, draw up the ends, and finish with cord and tassel.

Shetland Scarf.

Pins No. 7, cast on 145 stitches.

Work the rosette, eglantier, or lattice pattern, as in D’Oyleys, and finish with same fringe.

The first and last quarter of a yard looks well in 6 shades of wool.

Petit Point Quilt.

Or Table Cover.

Pins No. 5, double Berlin wool, shaded and plain white. With the white cast on 116 stitches for each yard; if larger, any even number of stitches.

1st row—Shaded wool, knit 1, bring the wool forward, slip 1, pass the wool back.

2nd row—Purl 1, pass the wool back, slip 1, bring the wool forward.

3rd row—White, same as 1st row.

4th row—White, same as 2nd row.

Repeat these 4 rows until the required length, cast off, and finish with the following

Border for Quilt.

Measure the 4 sides of the work; cast on with white wool 188 stitches for each yard, and 18 for every 4 inches more.

1st row—Purl.

2nd row—Plain.

3rd row—Shaded wool, (knit 2 together, 3 times,) (make 1, knit 1, 5 times,) make 1, (knit 2 together, 3 times,) knit 1.

4th row—Purl.

5th row—Same as 3rd.

6th row—Purl.

7th row—Same as 3rd.

8th row—White, purl.

Repeat from 1st row 4 times, knit 1 row, purl 1 row; cast off, and sew on to quilt.

Baby’s Socks.

Pins No. 17, Berlin wool, pink and white. With pink cast on 34 stitches.

Knit 6 rows, making a stitch at the beginning of every row; then 10 rows, making a stitch every other row; this increase is for the toe. Knit 6 rows plain, knit 13 stitches at the toe, turn back, and knit 18 rows of 13 stitches; leave them on the pin, and with a third pin, and white wool, commence at the other side. Knit a plain row, turn back, make 1, knit 2 together, to the end. Next row, plain; turn back, make 1, knit 2 together, for 16 stitches, leaving 16 on the pin; turn back, make 1, knit 2 together to the end, and repeat the 2 last rows 16 times. Cast on 16 stitches; next row make 1, knit 2 together, to the end, or 32 stitches; 1 plain row; then with the colored wool that was left at the 13 stitches knit a plain row on, the 32 stitches of white; knit 6 rows plain; then 10 rows, knitting 2 together every other row at the toe; and 6 rows, knitting 2 together at the beginning of every row: cast off. For the leg, white wool raise 16 stitches from the colored part, and 12 from the white piece across; knit the 16 stitches left on the pin; there will now be 44 stitches on the pin. Pattern: make 1, knit 2 together; 3 rows plain; repeat for 8 patterns, and cast off. Then, with colored wool, cast on 9 stitches, knit 5 rows, and cast off; draw the slanting part together, and sew this piece in.

Square Shawl.

Pins No. 6, double Berlin or 4-thread fleecy, cast on 325 stitches.

1st row—Knit 2, make 1, knit 2 together, knit 1, knit 2 together, make 1, knit 1; at the end of row knit 1 plain.

2nd row—Purl.

3rd row—Make 1, knit 2 together, knit 1, make 1, knit 3 together, make 1, knit 2.

4th row—Purl.

5th row—Knit 1, knit 2 together, make 1, knit 3, make 1, knit 2 together.

6th row—Purl.

7th row—Knit 2 together, * make 1, knit 2, make 1, knit 2 together, knit 1, make 1, knit 3 together, repeat from mark; at the end of row, make 1, knit 2 together.

8th row—Purl.

Work until square.

BORDER.

In two Colors.

Cast on 359 stitches.

With white, or any color that accords well with the middle, knit 6 rows plain, knitting 2 together at the end of each row.

7th row—Same color as middle, knit 4, slip 2; at the end of these rows knit 2 together.

8th row—Purl 4, slip 2.

9th row—Knit 3, slip 2, knit 1.

10th row—Purl 3, slip 2, purl 1.

Then with white 6 rows plain, knitting 2 together at the end.

17th row—With the color, knit 2, slip 2, knit 2; at the end of these rows knit 2 together.

18th row—Purl 3, slip 2, purl 1.

19th row—Knit 1, slip 2, knit 3.

20th row—Purl 2, slip 2, purl 2.

White; knit 6 rows, knitting 2 together at the end.

27th row—Slip 2, knit 4.

28th row—Purl 1, slip 2, purl 3.

29th row—Knit 1, * knit 4, slip 2; repeat from mark.

30th row—Slip 2, purl 4.

With white knit 6 rows, cast off.

Work 4 pieces the same, sew them on to the shawl, and finish with a knotted fringe.

Polka.

For a Child.

Pins No. 9, double Berlin wool, or 4-thread fleecy, cast on 252 stitches with white.

1st row—Make 1, slip 1, knit 2 together; this is the stitch throughout the Polka.

Knit 32 rows, join on the color, and knit 16 rows; then knit 51 stitches, knit 3 together, work on with pattern for 144 stitches, knit 3 together, finish the row with pattern. Next row knit 51 stitches, make 1, slip 1, knit 3 together, knit 145 stitches, make 1, slip 1, knit 3 together, finish the row with pattern. Knit 24 rows. Knit 51 stitches, and knit 3 together, knit 142 stitches of pattern, knit 3 together; finish the row with pattern. Next row knit 51 stitches of pattern, make 1, slip 1, knit 3 together, knit 139 stitches of pattern, make 1, slip 1, knit 3 together; finish with pattern. Knit 24 rows; decrease as above, knitting 6 less in the middle. Knit 24 rows; decrease again. Knit 10 rows. Knit 51 stitches of pattern, then knit 1, knit 2 together, to within 51 stitches of the end; finish with pattern.

Next row, after knitting the 51 stitches, make 1, slip 1, knit 3 together, within 51; there will now be 168 stitches on the pin. Knit 36 rows. Knit the 51 stitches, leave them, and with another pin, cast off 9 stitches for the arm hole, knit 48 stitches of pattern, cast off 9 stitches; leave the fronts on the pins, and knit 40 rows; then knit 3 together, finish the row in pattern. At the end of the next row, knit 3 together. Knit 3 rows. Knit 3 together at the end of the next row. Knit 12 rows. Knit 3 together at the end. Knit 12 rows. Knit 3 together. Cast off the back.

For the fronts, knit 40 rows, knit 3 together at the arm hole; at the end of next row, knit 3 together. Knit 8 rows, decrease again, knit 8 rows, decrease, knit 8 rows, decrease, knit 2 rows, decrease as before; cast off 6 stitches at the front, decrease at the arm hole. Next row, cast off 3 stitches, decrease at the arm hole, and cast off. Knit the other front the same.

SLEEVE.

Cast on 72 stitches.

Knit 70 rows of pattern.

71st row—Knit 54 stitches, turn back.

72nd row—Knit to the end.

73rd row—Knit 51 stitches, turn back.

74th row—Knit to the end.

75th row—Knit 42 stitches, turn, knit to the end.

77th row—Knit 36 stitches, turn, and knit to the end.

79th row—Knit 33 stitches, turn, and knit to the end.

81st row—Knit 30 stitches, turn, and knit to the end.

Then knit 22 rows all along; cast off.

COLLAR.

Cast on 144 stitches.

With white, knit 24 rows; join on the color, knit 6 rows.

31st row—Knit 129 stitches, turn back, and knit to within 15 stitches of the other end; turn back, knit till within 21. Next row, the same; turn back, knit till within 30. Next row, the same, knit till within 33. Next row, the same, knit till within 36. Cast off.

For the side border and cuffs, cast on 15 stitches with white, and knit the length of the color.

Child’s Frock.

For a child 3 or 4 years of age.

Pins No. 5, Berlin wool, 6 shades of each color, and white. With the darkest shade, cast on 348 stitches.

Pattern—Make 1, knit 2 together, knit 4. All the rows are the same.

Knit 2 rows of each shade, and 12 of white; 12 shaded, 12 white, 12 shaded; knit the rest white until long enough.

BODY.

Cast on 90 stitches.

With the 6th shade, knit the pattern to the lightest shade, and 4 rows of white; then knit 15 stitches of pattern, cast off 12 stitches. With another pin knit 36 stitches, turn back, and knit 8 rows of 36 stitches; this is for the front.

For the back: on the side where the stitches were cast off, knit 8 rows of white; on the other side, cast off 12 stitches, knit 8 rows; put all the stitches on 1 pin again, and with the lightest shade, work to the darkest.

FOR THE SLEEVES.

Cast on 36 stitches with the darkest shade.

Knit to the lightest, then 16 of white; cast off. Sew the skirt to a band, and round the neck and sleeves with a vandyke edging as 2nd receipt.

Carriage Mat.

No. 4 pins, 8-thread fleecy, or 4-thread doubled, border white with black spots, and scarlet or orange middle. With the white cast 73 stitches; cut a skein of white and black in pieces of 6 inches.

1st row—Knit 1, take 2 pieces of the cut wool, white, put them on the left pin, and cross them, so as to bring 1 end in front, and 1 at the back; then with the right hand pin, knit the loop and a stitch together, bring the end at the back forward between the pins.

2nd row—Plain.

3rd row—Slip the 1st stitch, and repeat the 1st row.

4th row—Plain.

5th row—The same as the 1st row, putting on 1 black loop and 6 white, alternately.

6th row—Plain.

Repeat from 1st row once more; in the 5th row, put on 2 white loops before commencing the pattern, to bring the black spots in a diamond.

Then commence the middle; knit in 7 loops of white, 22 of color, and 7 of white. Repeat until the middle is square, and knit the white to correspond with the beginning.

When finished, it must be sent to be sheared and combed.

Réseau Quilt.

Pins No. 9, 6-thread fleecy, pink and white; cast on 192 stitches with white.

1st row—Pink, having wool in front, slip 1, make 1, by turning the wool round the pin, purl 2 together.

2nd row—With white, at other end of pin, knit 1, slip 1, (this is a pink loop,) knit 1.

3rd row—Slip 1, purl 2.

4th row—With pink, at the other end, make 1, slip 1, knit 2 together.

5th row—White, knit 2, slip 1.

6th row—Slip 1, purl 2.

Repeat from 1st row. Finish with

KNITTED FRINGE.

Cast on 12 stitches, with doubled wool.

1st row—Make 1, knit 2 together, knit 2; all the rows are the same.

Knit 12 rows of each color; when finished cast off 7 stitches, leaving 5 to be pulled out for the fringe.

TERMS USED IN CROCHET.

To make a chain—Make a loop, and draw the wool through it.

To commence a row—Put the needle in the side of the 1st stitch, bring the wool through, and work a chain stitch. After the 1st row, there is always a stitch at the side.

Miss a stitch—Pass over 1 of the row before.

To increase—Work 2 stitches in 1.

To decrease—Miss a stitch.

In crochet that is worked square, at the end of a row, cut the wool off, and draw it through to fasten it; begin at the other end.

In the chain—Put the needle through the loop formed by the chain stitches, in the row before, instead of in a stitch.

CROCHET.

Shepherd or Single Crochet.

This stitch is usually worked round, for Cuffs, Muffatees, Boots, &c. &c.

Make a chain, join it, keep the loop on the needle.

1st round—Put the needle in the 1st chain stitch, draw the wool through; there will now be 2 loops on the needle; draw the last loop through the 1st.

In the 2nd and following rounds, take the 1st part of the chain on the needle.

Plain, Double, or French Crochet.

Make a chain. After commencing the row, put the needle in a stitch of the chain, draw the wool through; there will be 2 loops on the needle. Take the wool on the needle again, and draw it through the 2 loops. At the end, cut the wool off, draw it through, and begin at the other end.

Treble Crochet.

Make a chain. After commencing the row, put the wool round the needle, put the needle in a stitch of the chain, draw the wool through; there will be 3 loops on the needle. Take the wool on the needle again, draw it through 2 of the loops; take up the wool again, and draw it through the 2. This is 1 stitch.

Crochet.

In two colors.

This is always worked in plain crochet. Lay the color not wanted along, and work over it. In changing the color, draw it through before finishing the stitch, when there are 2 loops on the needle.

Six Crochet D’Oyleys, Round.

These D’Oyleys are very beautiful.

Boar’s head cotton, No. 16, or Berlin wool, in plain, open, and treble Crochet.

DIAMOND PATTERN.

Make a chain of 8 stitches, and join it.

1st round—1 treble 3 chain stitch in every chain stitch.

2nd round—3 treble, 3 chain, miss 1.

3rd round—5 treble, 3 chain, miss 1.

4th round—7 treble, 3 chain, miss 1.

5th round—9 treble, 3 chain, miss 1.

6th round—Miss 2, 7 treble, 2 chain, miss 2, 1 treble, 2 chain.

7th round—Miss 2, 5 treble, 3 chain, miss 2, 3 treble, 3 chain.

8th round—Miss 3, 3 treble, 3 chain, miss 3, 5 treble, 3 chain.

9th round—Miss 1, 1 treble, 2 chain, miss 1, 1 treble, 2 chain, miss 1, 1 treble, 2 chain, miss 1, 7 treble, 2 chain.

10th round—3 treble, 2 chain, miss 3, 3 treble, 2 chain, miss 2, 5 treble, 2 chain, miss 2.

11th round—5 treble, 2 chain, 5 treble, 2 chain, miss 2, 3 treble, 2 chain, miss 2.

12th round—7 treble, 2 chain, 7 treble, 2 chain, miss 2, 1 treble, 3 chain, miss 2.

DAMIER PATTERN.

Make a chain of 9 stitches.

1st round—2 plain in every stitch.

2nd round—3 chain, miss 1, 1 plain.

3rd round—3 chain, miss 2, 1 plain.

4th round—3 chain, miss 3, 3 plain in 1 of the round before.

5th round—3 chain, miss 3, 2 plain in 1, 2 plain.

6th round—4 chain, miss 3, 2 plain in 1, 3 plain.

7th round—4 chain, miss 4, 2 plain in 1, 4 plain.

8th round—1 treble, 2 chain, miss 1.

9th round—8 chain, 3 plain, miss 4.

10th round—Plain.

11th round—6 chain, miss 9, 2 plain; the 2 plain are in the middle of the 8 chain in the 9th round.

12th round—10 plain, and 2 in the 11th stitch.

13th round—3 treble, 3 chain, miss 2.

14th round—4 chain, miss 3, 3 treble.

15th round—4 treble, miss 3, 4 chain.

TRELLIS PATTERN.

A chain of 12 stitches.

1st round—3 chain, and 1 plain in every stitch.

2nd round—3 chain, 1 plain; the plain stitch in the middle of the 3 chain, in the last round.

3rd round—5 chain, 1 plain; the plain stitch in the middle.

4th round—Same as 3rd.

5th round—6 chain, 1 plain.

6th round—Treble.

7th round—2 chain, miss 1, 1 treble.

8th round—2 treble in 1, miss 3, 2 chain; the 2 chain over the 2 in last row.

9th round—Same as 8th.

10th round—2 treble in 1, miss 3, 3 chain.

11th round—2 treble, miss 3, 4 chain.

12th round—Same as 6th.

FILET PATTERN.

Chain of 7 stitches.

1st round—9 chain, 1 plain in every stitch.

2nd round—7 plain, miss 3.

3rd round—6 chain, miss 5, 2 plain; the 2 plain in the middle of the chain in 1st round.

4th round—3 plain, and 2 plain in the 4th stitch.

5th round—3 plain, 6 chain, miss 1.

6th round—Plain.

7th round—5 chain, miss 7, 2 plain in the chain of last round.

8th round—Plain.

9th round—5 chain, miss 2, 1 plain.

10th round—5 chain, miss 7, 1 plain in chain of last round.

11th round—Same as 10th.

12th round—Same as 10th.

13th round—5 plain, miss 1.

14th round—2 treble, 2 chain, miss 1.

SCOLLOP PATTERN.

Make a chain of 9 stitches.

1st round—1 treble, 1 chain, in every stitch.

2nd round—2 treble, putting the needle through the chain of round before, 2 chain.

3rd round—3 treble in the chain of last round, 3 chain.

4th round—5 treble in the chain, 2 chain.

5th round—7 treble in the chain, 1 chain.

6th round—10 chain, miss 7, 1 plain in the middle of the 7 treble in last round.

7th round—1 treble, 1 chain, in every stitch for 8 stitches, miss 3.

8th and 9th rounds—1 treble, 1 chain, miss 1.

10th round—3 plain, 6 chain, miss 5.

11th round—1 chain, miss 1, 1 plain, 1 chain, miss 1, 6 treble.

12th round—1 treble, 1 chain, miss 1.

SEME PATTERN.

Make a chain of 9 stitches.

1st round—2 plain in every stitch.

2nd round—3 chain, 2 treble.

3rd round—4 chain, 2 treble in 1, miss 4.

4th round—2 treble in 1, 2 chain, miss 2.

5th round—2 chain, miss 2, 2 treble.

6th round—2 treble in 1, 3 chain, miss 3.

7th round—1 treble, 1 chain, miss 1.

8th round—2 treble in 1, 2 chain, miss 3.

9th round—3 treble in 1, 1 chain, miss 3.

10th round—3 treble in 1, 2 chain, miss 3.

11th round—3 treble in 1, 3 chain, miss 4; the treble stitches in the chain of the last round.

Fringe for D’Oyleys.

Cut a skein of cotton in pieces of 3 inches.

Put the needle in a stitch of the work, take 2 pieces of the cotton, fold them on the needle, draw them through, and draw the ends through the loop, pull it tight.

Knitting cotton, No. 12, is the best for the fringe.

Scollop for D’Oyleys.

To be worked on the D’Oyleys.

1st round—7 chain, miss 3, 5 plain.

2nd round—1 treble, 1 chain for 7 stitches, 1 chain, miss 2, 1 plain, 2 chain, miss 2.

Wheel Pattern Insertion.

Boar’s head cotton No. 20, fine steel needle, make a chain of 500 stitches for each yard.

1st round—5 treble stitches in 1, 1 chain, miss 1, 1 plain, 1 chain, miss 1.

2nd round—Turn the work so as to work in the chain on the other side; work the same as 1st row, the 5 treble in the same stitch as the 5 treble on the other side.

Ecaille Pattern Edging.

Boar’s head cotton No. 34, fine steel needle, make a chain of 500 stitches for each yard.

1st row—1 treble, 1 chain, miss 1.

2nd row—3 chain, miss 1, 5 plain.

3rd row—6 chain, miss 5, (this over the 3 chain in the last row,) 3 plain, in the middle of the 5 plain in last row.

4th row—8 chain, miss 8, 1 plain in the middle of the 3 plain in the last row.

Open Vandyke Edging.

Chain and cotton as last receipt.

1st row—Treble.

2nd row—The same.

3rd row—1 plain, 4 chain, miss 1.

4th row—1 chain, 1 plain; the plain stitches are always in the middle of the chain in last row; 4 chain, miss 5, 1 plain, 4 chain, miss 5, 1 plain, 4 chain, miss 5, 1 plain; turn back, so as to work on the 4th row.

5th row—1 chain, miss 1, 1 plain, 4 chain, miss 5, 1 plain, 4 chain, miss 5, 1 plain; turn back.

6th row—1 chain, miss 1, 1 plain, 4 chain, miss 5, 1 plain. Work 6 shepherd’s stitches down the side of vandyke, so as to bring the thread to the 3rd row: this forms 1 vandyke.

Repeat from 4th row.

Close Vandyke Edging.

Commence as last receipt.

1st row—1 treble, 1 chain, miss 1.

2nd row—2 chain, 5 treble; turn back, so as to work on 2nd row.

3rd row—2 chain, miss 1, 3 treble, turn back.

4th row—2 chain, miss 1, 1 treble, 2 chain; work 6 shepherd stitches to bring the cotton to the 2nd row. Commence from 2nd row. When all the vandykes are worked, finish with a row of 3 chain, miss 2, 3 plain, all round them.

Double Scallop Edging.

Commence as before.

1st row—1 treble, 1 chain, miss 1.

2nd row—3 chain, miss 3, 3 treble.

3rd row—3 plain, 7 chain, miss 3.

4th row—1 chain, 1 plain, 1 chain, miss 1, (1 chain, 1 plain, 7 times.)

5th row—The same as 3rd, except the 3 plain stitches are to be worked in the middle of the last scollop.

6th row—Same as 4th.

Diamond Insertion.

1st row—Treble.

2nd row—1 treble, 2 chain, miss 2, 3 treble, 2 chain, miss 2.

3rd row—2 treble, 2 chain, miss 2, 1 treble, 2 chain, miss 2, 1 treble.

4th row—Same as 2nd.

5th row—Same as 1st.

Cuffs.

Diamond Pattern.

Make a chain of 85 stitches, boar’s head cotton No. 20.

1st row—1 treble, 2 chain, miss 2, 9 treble, 2 chain, miss 2; at the end of these rows, 1 treble, 2 chain, beside the pattern. Work backwards and forwards.

2nd row—2 treble, 2 chain, miss 2, 7 treble, 2 chain, miss 2, 1 treble.

3rd row—3 treble, 2 chain, miss 2, 5 treble, 2 chain, miss 2, 2 treble.

4th row—4 treble, 2 chain, miss 2, 3 treble, 2 chain, miss 2, 3 treble.

5th row—5 treble, 2 chain, miss 2, 1 treble, 2 chain, miss 2, 4 treble.

6th row—Same as 4th.

7th row—Same as 3rd.

8th row—Same as 2nd.

9th row—Same as 1st.

Edging for Cuffs.

To be worked on.

1st row—1 treble, 1 chain, miss 1.

2nd row—Treble.

3rd row—Same as 1st.

4th row—2 treble in the chain stitch of last row, 2 chain, 2 plain in the 2 chain of last row, 5 chain; work the same on the other side.

Work down the side of the cuff plain, working 7 chain stitches for button holes.

Crochet Collar.

Make a chain of 120 stitches, No. 14 cotton.

1st row—1 treble, 1 chain, miss 1.

2nd row—2 chain, 1 plain, miss 1.

3rd row—1 plain, 3 chain; the plain stitch is always in the middle of the chain in the row before.

Repeat the 3rd row 10 times. Then 1 row, 5 chain, 1 plain, miss 4.

Finish with a small cord and tassels.

Round Sofa Pillow.

Double Berlin wool, make a chain of 100 stitches, work it backwards and forwards. Shaded wool, colors violet, green, scarlet, blue, and orange.

1st row—Violet, 1 chain, 3 treble in 1, miss 3.

Work 5 rows more the same, always working the 3 treble stitches in the chain stitch of the row before; then 6 rows of green, 6 of scarlet, 6 blue, 6 orange, and commence at 1st row.

The size must be according to the pillow it is to cover, about 16 inches.

Bead Crochet.

Thread the beads on the silk, and pass a bead down before working the stitch; this is always worked on the wrong side.

Handsome Bead Purse.

With square ends, pattern No. 1, middle size netting silk, colours ponceau white, shaded green, and No. 5 steel beads. Make a chain of 80 stitches.

With ponceau make it round, and work 2 rounds plain; then 5 rounds of pattern in ponceau, 5 in white, 14 in shaded green, 5 in white, 5 of ponceau, 8 rounds plain ponceau, and 34 rows backwards and forwards, for the opening, working 3 bead stitches at the beginning and end of every other row; make it round again, work 3 plain rounds, repeat pattern.

Finish the ends with a fringe of steel beads.

1

Bead Purse.

Pattern No. 4.

Colours white and shaded blue, gold or steel beads, No. 5. Make a chain of 88 stitches white.

Make it round; work 2 rounds plain, and 3 rounds, putting a bead on every stitch, shaded blue; work the star pattern; then 3 rounds in beads with white, 6 rounds plain, and 34 rows backwards and forwards for the opening, working 3 bead stitches at the beginning and end of every other row; make it round, and repeat the pattern.

Finish with a fringe of beads.

4

Table Cover.

In squares, plain crochet.

Each square is a different color in Berlin wool; colors violet, green, scarlet, stone, blue, and orange, 6 shades of each color and black; work 2 rounds of each shade. Make a chain of 8 stitches with the lightest shade.

1st round—Work 2 stitches in 1.

2nd round—3 stitches in 1, 3 plain.

3rd round—3 stitches in 1, 5 plain.

4th round—2nd shade, 3 in 1, 7 plain.

5th round—3 stitches in 1, 9 plain.

6th round—3rd shade, 3 in 1, 11 plain.

7th round—3 in 1, 13 plain.

8th round—4th shade, 3 in 1, 15 plain.

9th round—3 in 1, 17 plain.

10th round—5th shade, 5 in 1, 19 plain.

11th round—3 in 1, 21 plain.

12th round—6th shade, 3 in 1, 23 plain.

13th round—3 in 1, 25 plain.

14th round—Black, 3 in 1, 27 plain.

15th round—3 in 1, 29 plain.

This finishes 1 square. Work all the colors the same; when sufficient are made, crochet them together with black. A small pattern may also be worked in each square.

Bell Pulls.

Pattern No. 2.

In double Berlin wool, the ground claret, 4 shades of green, and 3 of orange; make a chain of 50 stitches for each quarter of a yard.

1st row—Orange.

2nd row—2nd shade.

3rd row—3rd shade.

4th row—Claret.

5th row—Darkest green and claret; work the first row of pattern with the green.

6th row—2nd shade of green and claret.

7th row—3rd shade of green and claret.

8th row—4th shade of green and 2nd shade of orange.

9th row—4th shade of green, 3rd shade of orange.

10th row—Same as 7th.

11th row—Same as 6th.

12th row—Same as 5th.

13th row—Same as 4th.

14th row—Same as 3rd.

15th row—As 2nd.

16th row—As 1st.

2

Greek Cap.

Patterns Nos. 3 and 9.

Coarse Netting Silk, and Gold Twist.

Ground black, 3 shades of ponceau, 3 of green, 4 of orange; make a chain of 7 stitches with black.

1st round—2 stitches in 1.

2nd round—1 ponceau, lightest shade, 1 ponceau, 2 black in 1.

3rd round—2 ponceau in 1, 2 black.

4th round—2 ponceau in 1 ponceau, 2 black.

5th round—2 ponceau in 1, 2 ponceau, 2 black.

Repeat the 2 last rounds, working 1 ponceau more each round until there are 102 stitches; 3 rounds of black, 4 plain, 2 in the 5th stitch; 3 rounds of gold, thus—1 treble, 1 chain, miss 1, 1 black round plain, next round black, 4 plain and 2 in 1 in the 5th stitch, then work the pattern with black ground.

1st round—Darkest green and black.

2nd round—2nd shade of green and black.

3rd round—3rd shade of green and black.

4th round—Darkest ponceau and black.

5th round—2nd shade and black.

6th round—3rd shade and black.

7th round—Darkest blue and black.

8th round—2nd shade and black.

9th round—3rd shade and black.

10th round—Darkest orange and black.

11th round—2nd shade and black.

12th round—3rd shade and black.

13th round—4th shade and black.

14th round—Plain black.

15th round—Black, 4 plain and 2 in 1 in the 5th stitch.

This finishes the increase; it will now be 22 inches round; repeat the gold rounds and the pattern until within 2 inches of the finish; then work the 3 rounds of gold, 1 round of ponceau; then pattern No. 9 in the gold on ponceau ground.

If required larger, it must be increased before the 2nd pine pattern in the black rounds.

3

9

Cigar or Card Case.

Pattern No. 4.

Middle sized silk, shaded scarlet and blue No. 6, steel and gold beads. Make a chain of 10 stitches in scarlet.

1st round—2 stitches in 1.

2nd round—1 plain, 2 in the 2nd stitch.

3rd round—2 in the 3rd stitch, repeat the last round, working 1 stitch more until there are 128 stitches; thread on the scarlet 3 rows of steel beads; work 3 rounds, putting a bead on every stitch; thread the gold beads on the blue; work 1 plain round; then commence the star pattern; after the pattern 1 plain row; thread three rows of steel beads on the blue, and work three rounds a bead on every stitch; then work the star pattern in scarlet and gold beads; work another piece the same. It is then made up on a frame.

Bag.

In Treble Open Crochet.

Colors, white, blue, and gold twist.

Make a chain of 140 stitches.

Pattern, 1 treble, 1 chain, miss 1, work 3 rounds of each color for 5 inches, and finish with cord and tassels to match.

Square Sofa Pillow.

Pattern No. 5. Berlin wool.

Make a chain of 160 stitches, or 100 for double Berlin wool. Colours, 4 shades of green, 4 of scarlet, 4 of stone, and white.

1st pattern—Open crochet, 3 treble, 3 chain, miss 3.

1st row—Darkest green.

2nd row—3rd shade of green, working the 3 treble stitches in the 3 chain of the last row.

3rd row—2nd shade of green.

4th row—1st shade of green.

2nd pattern, No. 5.

1st row—Darkest stone and darkest scarlet.

2nd row—3rd shades of stone and scarlet.

3rd row—2nd shades of stone and scarlet.

4th row—1st shades of stone and scarlet.

5th row—White. This is the ground of the stripe.

6th row—1st shade of green and white.

7th row—2nd shade and white.

8th row—3rd shade and white.

9th row—4th shade and white.

10th row—Same as 9th.

11th row—Same as 8th.

12th row—Same as 7th.

13th row—Same as 6th.

14th row—As 5th.

15th row—As 4th.

16th row—As 3rd.

17th row—As 2nd.

18th row—As 1st.

Then work the open pattern again, and repeat until square.

5

Half-Square Shawl.

Plain Crochet. Double Chené wool of various colors and black. Make a chain of 3 stitches.

1st row—Work 2 stitches in 1 at the beginning of the row; work the rest plain at the end of the row; leave 7 inches of wool for the fringe. In commencing a row the ends must be worked under for a few stitches.

Pattern—1 row black and 2 chené. Increase until there are 350 stitches; then loop in a fringe to correspond with the other side.

Another Shawl.

3 Shades of Violet, 3 of Stone, and White.

Increase as the last, and work 1 row of each shade.

Crochet Shoes.

Berlin wool, pattern No. 6.

The shoes must be worked from a paper pattern the size required. Commence at the toe, and increase by working 2 stitches in 1 at the beginning and end of the row until sufficiently deep. For the sides work about a third of the front.

Gold color and French blue for the ground, and 3 shades of each for the pattern.

1st row—2 stitches of blue and 2 of gold.

2nd row—Gold.

3rd row—Gold and dark blue.

4th row—2nd shade of blue and gold.

5th row—3rd shade of blue and gold.

6th row—Gold color, repeat from 1st row.

The next pattern the same, except the ground is blue, and the spots shades of gold.

6

Sole for Shoes.

6 Thread Black Fleecy.

Make a chain of 8 stitches.

1st row—1 row plain. This is not repeated.

2nd row—Take both sides of the chain on the needle and work according to shape, working it backwards and forwards.

Crochet Purse.

2nd size Netting Silk, 2 colours. No. 6 steel beads. Make a chain of 120 stitches.

1st row—1 treble, 1 chain, pass a bead down, miss 1; work 2 rows of each colour for 6 inches.

Shamrock Purse.

Pattern No. 8.

In close crochet, fine silk; colors, green, violet, and white; steel and gold beads, No. 5. Make a chain of 150 stitches with white; thread the steel beads upon the white.

Work 3 rows the same as in last receipt, then with green and gold beads, work the pattern; then 3 rows of white, with steel beads, as before, and with violet and gold beads, work the pattern again.

Three stripes of each color form the purse.

8

Honeycomb Edging.

Make a chain of 480 stitches for each yard. Boar’s head cotton No. 24.

1st row—10 chain, miss 5 (1 plain, 3 chain, miss 1, 4 times), 1 plain.

2nd row—1 treble, 1 chain in the 3 chain of the row before; repeat 6 times, 1 chain (1 plain, 3 chain, miss 4, 3 times), 1 plain, 1 chain.

3rd row—1 treble, 1 chain, miss 1, 7 times, 1 chain (1 plain, 1 chain, miss 4, twice), 1 plain, 1 chain.

4th row—1 plain and 3 treble in every treble stitch of the last row; then 1 chain, 1 plain, 3 chain, 1 plain, 1 chain.

Anti-Macassar.

Boar’s head cotton No. 10, or knitting cotton No. 12. Make a chain of 145 stitches. Work backwards and forwards.

1st row—4 treble, 2 chain, miss 2, 1 treble, 2 chain, miss 2, 3 treble; at the end, work 1 treble, 2 chain, beside the pattern.

2nd row—3 treble, 2 chain, miss 2, 1 treble, 1 chain, miss 1, 1 treble, 2 chain, miss 2, 2 treble.

3rd row—2 treble, 2 chain, miss 2, 1 treble, 1 chain, miss 1, 1 treble, 1 chain, miss 1, 1 treble, 2 chain, miss 2, 1 treble.

4th row—1 treble, 2 chain, miss 2, (1 treble, 1 chain, miss 1, 3 times,) 1 treble, 2 chain, miss 2.

5th row—Same as 3rd.

6th row—Same as 2nd.

7th row—Same as 1st.

Work 24 inches. Finish with double scollop edging.

Travelling Bag.

Pattern No. 7.

In double Berlin wool, 5 shades of scarlet, 4 shades of stone, 4 shades of couleur de bois, light green, black, white, and shaded blue. Make a chain of 150 stitches.

1st row—Black and darkest bois, 2 stitches of each.

2nd row—2nd shade and black.

3rd row—3rd shade, plain.

4th row—4th shade and green, 21 stitches of green, and 3 of bois, lightest shade.

5th row—White and 1st shade of scarlet, 21 white, and 3 scarlet.

6th row—2nd shade of scarlet, 1st shade of stone; 3 stone, 15 scarlet, 3 stone, 3 scarlet.

7th row—2nd shade of stone, 3rd shade of scarlet; same as 6th row.

8th row—3rd shade of stone, 4th shade of scarlet; same as 7th row.

9th row—4th shade of stone, 5th shade of scarlet.

10th row—Same as 9th.

Repeat the colors back again, ending with a plain row of the darkest couleur de bois, and the 2 rows of 2 stitches; then 6 rows of shaded blue; work until there are 18 inches.

Finish with a clasp.

7

Table Cover.

Pattern No. 9.

Berlin wool. Make a chain of 350 stitches in single wool, or 200 in double, for each 1/2-yard. Colors--4 shades of crimson, green, and violet; ground--black and shaded orange.

1st row—Black.

2nd row—Lightest crimson and black.

3rd row—2nd shade crimson and black.

4th row—3rd shade and black.

5th row—4th shade and black.

6th row—Dark green and black.

7th row—2nd shade and black.

8th row—3rd shade and black.

9th row—4th shade and black.

10th row—White and black.

11th row—Lightest violet and black.

12th row—2nd shade of violet and black.

13th row—3rd shade and black.

14th row—4th shade and black.

Then 1 row of black, and 6 rows of shaded orange.

A Chain.

Fine brown braid.

Wind the braid in 2 balls, join them together, and make a loop; then, holding the 2 braids over the 4th finger, work a chain stitch with each of the braids alternately, until 1 yard and a 1/4 long. Fasten it with a steel slide.

Cap.

In Berlin wool shaded, and floss silk. Make a chain of 120 stitches.

Pattern—1 treble, 1 chain, miss 1.

Work 12 rows, leaving 1 stitch at the beginning and end of every row, to decrease it; work a row all round, and then commence the

BORDER.

1st row—Work 3 chain stitches, miss 1, 1 plain.

2nd row—The same.

3rd row—5 chain, miss 4, 1 plain; the plain stitch in the middle of the chain of last row.

4th row—Same as 3rd for a 3rd of the row; break the wool off.

5th row—6 chain, miss 6, 1 plain, for a 3rd of the row.

Work the other side the same; then a row of the floss silk, the same as the 5th, all along.

Finish with a ribbon for the back and ends.

NETTING.

Anti-Macassar.

As Pattern No. 10.

Mesh No. 6, cotton No. 12, foundation 70 stitches.

Net 120 rows. For the fringe, with double cotton, and a mesh 2 inches wide, net 2 stitches in 1 all round; it is then embroidered thus—thread a rug needle with the cotton, and begin in the corner; take 1 thread, and miss 1, twice, as in darning; work 5 threads in each; then work the contrary way, forming a vandyke. Work 2 rows in this manner; then count the middle stitch of the work, and make a diamond, same as the border.

Various patterns may be worked in this manner, but they are impossible to describe.

10

D’Oyley.

Mesh No. 8, cotton No. 12, 34 stitches.

Net 53 rows.

Fringe—Mesh 1 inch wide, 2 stitches in 1, all round.

Embroidered as Anti-Macassar.

Bread Basket D’Oyley.

Mesh No. 6, cotton No. 12, 50 stitches.

Net 126 rows. Fringe as D’Oyley.

Netted Purse.

For a Gentleman.

Mesh No. 15, coarse netting silk, 90 stitches.

Net 8 inches; join up 34 stitches on each side, leaving 22 for the opening.

This purse takes 4 skeins of silk.

Lady’s Purse.

Mesh No. 16, 3 skeins of 2nd size purse silk, 70 stitches.

Net 8 inches, join up 26 stitches on each side, leaving 18 for the opening.

Bead Purse.

Mesh No. 14, coarse silk, and No. 7 beads 3 bunches, 60 stitches; measure 1 yard and a 1/4 of silk, thread a small sewing needle with it.

1st row—Net the 1st stitch, thread 2 beads, pass them close to the last stitch; net the stitch, and continue putting 2 beads in every stitch.

2nd row—The same, keeping the 2 beads on the outside.

Work 7 inches, join up 22 stitches on each side, leaving 16 for the opening.

Wedding Purse.

With Motto No. 11.

Extra fine white netting silk, and No. 4 gold beads; meshes Nos. 6, 16, and 19; 65 stitches.

With No. 16 mesh net 7 rows.

No. 6 mesh, net 3 stitches in 1.

No. 19 mesh, net 3 plain rows.

No. 6 mesh, net 1 row.

No. 16 mesh, net a row, netting 3 stitches together every stitch; repeat. Net 7 rows.

Repeat this pattern twice more.

In the next pattern, instead of working the 3 rows with No. 19 mesh, work the motto No. 2.

With No. 19 mesh, net 1 plain row, net 62 stitches, and then begin the motto; finish the row plain. Then cut the silk off, commence at the other end, and work the second row of motto; at the end of this row, cut the silk off, and knot the 2 ends together, to prevent losing a stitch. After the motto is finished, net 1 plain row, and repeat the first pattern 3 times.

The beads are put on in the following manner,—thread a bead, (with a small needle,) net 1 stitch, pass the silk under the mesh, put the needle through the bead, bring the silk in front again; this brings the bead on the knot.

11

Pattern chart

Another Purse.

With motto No. 12.

Fine silk, brown or blue, mesh No. 18, No. 5 steel beads, 90 stitches.

Net 4 inches plain.

Then commence the motto, putting the beads in as former receipt.

Net 25 stitches, net the first row of motto, finish the row plain; cut the silk off, and commence at the other end. Net 4 inches plain, to correspond with the other side.

12 Pattern chart

LONDON:
Printed by Kelly & Pritchett, 32, Houndsditch.

ERRATA.

Page 45, in 9th row, for slip 1, read slip 2.

Page 45, in 19th row, for purl 1, read knit 3.

Page 59, in 1st round, for 1 treble, read 1 treble 3 chain.

Page 62, in second round, for 7 chain, read 7 plain.

Transcriber’s Note

Transcriber’s Note

The following typographical errors were corrected.

Page | Error | Correction
2 | are all guaged | are all gauged
2 | wire-drawer’s guage | wire-drawer’s gauge
18 | knit 2 together | knit 2 together.
18 | 69 stitches, or 12 | 69 stitches, or 13
18 | 3rd row knit 3 together, knit | 3rd row knit 3 together, knit 1,
19 | long bead tassells | long bead tassels
64 | 10th rouud | 10th round
66 | miss 1, 5 plain, | miss 1, 5 plain.
73 | fringe of beads | fringe of beads.
77 | round of ponceau: | round of ponceau;
81 | 2 of gold, | 2 of gold.
84 | 1 chain, miss 4 twice | 1 chain, miss 4, twice
87 | 14th row—4 | 14th row—4th
89 | a vankyke. | a vandyke.

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Table of Contents

KNITTING, CROCHET, AND NETTING,

PREFACE

CONTENTS.

TERMS USED IN KNITTING.

KNITTING.

- Manchette or Undersleeves.

- Vandyke Edging.

- Taie D’Oreiller.

- The Davidoff Cap.

- Set of Twelve D’Oyleys,

- ROSETTE PATTERN.

- PIQUE PATTERN.

- CHENEE PATTERN.

- EGLANTIER PATTERN.

- TABLETTE PATTERN.

- PLUME PATTERN.

- MIMOSA PATTERN.

- LATTICE PATTERN.

- LADY BRUCE’S PATTERN.

- FESTOON PATTERN.

- TARGET PATTERN.

- ARABESQUE PATTERN.

- Knitted Purse.

- Anti-Macassar

- Shetland Shawl.

- BORDER.

- MIDDLE.

- Vandyke fringe for Shetland Shawl.

- Turkish Pattern for a Muff.

- Pelerine.

- Plaid Foot Muff.

- FOR THE LINING.

- Driving Mitts.

- Point Lace Edging.

- Scollop Edging.

- Diamond Edging.

- Treble Diamond Edging.

- Fringe for D’Oyleys.

- Travelling Cap.

- Shetland Scarf.

- Petit Point Quilt.

- Border for Quilt.

- Baby’s Socks.

- Square Shawl.

- BORDER.

- Polka.

- SLEEVE.

- COLLAR.

- Child’s Frock.

- BODY.

- FOR THE SLEEVES.

- Carriage Mat.

- Réseau Quilt.

- KNITTED FRINGE.

TERMS USED IN CROCHET.

CROCHET.

- Shepherd or Single Crochet.

- Plain, Double, or French Crochet.

- Treble Crochet.

- Crochet.

- Six Crochet D’Oyleys, Round.

- DIAMOND PATTERN.

- DAMIER PATTERN.

- TRELLIS PATTERN.

- FILET PATTERN.

- SCOLLOP PATTERN.

- SEME PATTERN.

- Fringe for D’Oyleys.

- Scollop for D’Oyleys.

- Wheel Pattern Insertion.

- Ecaille Pattern Edging.

- Open Vandyke Edging.

- Close Vandyke Edging.

- Double Scallop Edging.

- Diamond Insertion.

- Cuffs.

- Edging for Cuffs.

- Crochet Collar.

- Round Sofa Pillow.

- Bead Crochet.

- Handsome Bead Purse.

- Bead Purse.

- Table Cover.

- Bell Pulls.

- Greek Cap.

- Cigar or Card Case.

- Bag.

- Square Sofa Pillow.

- Half-Square Shawl.

- Another Shawl.

- Crochet Shoes.

- Sole for Shoes.

- Crochet Purse.

- Shamrock Purse.

- Honeycomb Edging.

- Anti-Macassar.

- Travelling Bag.

- Table Cover.

- A Chain.

- Cap.

- BORDER.

NETTING.

- Anti-Macassar.

- D’Oyley.

- Bread Basket D’Oyley.

- Netted Purse.

- Lady’s Purse.

- Bead Purse.

- Wedding Purse.

- Another Purse.

ERRATA.
Transcriber’s Note
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