Cro-knitting

The success of crochet and macramé work depends largely upon the careful choice of superior materials which are suitable for the work, giving it the clean and finished appearance which is often missing from work that, being made from poor material, has an amateurish appearance. We recommend especially, for cotton crochet work:—

A smooth working, highly mercerized cotton suitable for making laces, center pieces, belts, purses, bed spreads, etc. White and ecru are made in fifteen sizes and the fifteen beautiful colors are made in four or more sizes. This is an American product and superior to all the imported articles that have been offered heretofore.

Is a heavier, mercerized, hard twisted cord suitable for all kinds of Macramé work as well as for crocheting. From it are made bags, portieres, table covers, lamp shades, etc. It is much called for by the exclusive trade.

Resembles the finest silk crochet thread, is more lustrous and retains its luster under all circumstances. It is used for neckties, belts, bags, etc.; is put up in convenient cartons from which the thread can be drawn while working, the remainder being entirely protected by the transparent shell. Each carton contains enough material for one necktie or belt.

Is a soft metal thread for crocheting. It comes in a rich, bright gold color, also in aluminum, antique gold and antique silver. It is superior to all metal threads on the market; does not tarnish easily and is most satisfactory for working purposes.

The new art of Cro-Knitting is, as its name implies, a combination of crocheting and knitting, the effects produced being as beautiful as they are novel. The variety of unusual stitches is almost without limit and leads the worker, who desires something out of the beaten path, into new fields that tempt her to go on and on seeking and finding unknown beauties at each step. Once mastered, Cro-Knitting may be used for numerous purposes.

In presenting this new art to the public, we feel that it will be welcomed by the many friends of the BEAR BRAND MANUAL OF HANDIWORK.

We have included, in addition to Cro-Knitting, a number of designs for the new Crocheted Lattice Work that need only to be seen to be appreciated.

We wish, however, to advise the worker that in carrying out the various directions given, she uses exactly the materials designated. The directions were tested with the yarns and needles named and only by their use can the proper results be obtained. Do not substitute another yarn and then wonder why your work is not satisfactory. Use the yarn specified—

“To knit from a crochet hook and crochet from a knitting pin” is the best description of Cro-Knitting. The rows of crocheting and knitting are worked alternately or as the various patterns demand. The work requires a pair of knitting pins (or needles, as they are sometimes called) and a crochet hook of the same length and size as the pins. The hook should be of an even thickness down its entire length, with a knob at the end, as the stitches are allowed to accumulate on it as in afghan stitch.

The work is always commenced on a knitting pin, the stitches being cast on in the usual manner (see Bear Brand Manual of Handiwork), followed by one or more rows of plain knitting.

KNITTED ROWS: the wool is to be held in the usual manner. The first stitch is to be slipped or knitted as directed, but where a row of knitting commences with a different wool, the first stitch is always knitted, to keep the stripe distinct.

CROCHETED ROWS: when working these from the knitting pin, the hook is inserted through the stitch on the pin, as though it were a second knitting pin (from left to right). When working into the back of a stitch, the hook is inserted in reverse manner (from right to left). When working the crocheted rows the wool is passed over the fingers of the left hand. When two knitting stitches are taken together the hook is passed through the stitch nearer the left hand (as in knitting) before entering the stitch next to the point of the pin. When the back threads of two stitches are taken together, this is reversed and the crochet hook enters first the stitch at the point of the pin. As the crocheted rows are worked from the stitches on the knitting pin, it is not possible to “skip one” as in ordinary crocheting, as the stitch would drop, but it is an easy matter to put one stitch into two knitting stitches taken together, thus producing an extremely pretty effect.

In the instructions, when the phrase occurs “1 double through two stitches, 1 double through the back of the same two stitches,” the repetition means that the stitches are to be held on the knitting pin until the second double has been made; then slip stitches from pin.

When knitting from the crochet hook the point of the hook must be kept pointing downward to avoid catching the wool.

STITCHES. The knitting stitches are merely the usual plain and purl. The basic crochet stitches are single, double and treble crochet and the various cluster stitches, some of which are illustrated.

SINGLE CROCHET STITCH.

Cast on any number of stitches and knit 1 row. * With the crochet hook draw the wool through the stitch on the knitting pin; wool over hook and through the loop just drawn through, slip stitch from the pin and repeat from * all across. After row has been finished, there should be as many stitches on hook as there were on pin.

DOUBLE CROCHET STITCH.

Cast on any number of stitches and knit one row. Wool over hook, draw the wool through first stitch on pin: wool over and through the two loops on hook. Slip stitch from knitting pin. * Wool over hook, draw wool through next stitch on pin, wool over and through two loops, slip stitch from pin and repeat from * all across.

TREBLE CROCHET STITCH.

Cast on any number of stitches and knit one row. Insert hook in first stitch and draw wool through, ch. 2 and slip stitch from pin. * Wool over hook, draw wool through next stitch on pin, wool over and through two loops, wool over and through one loop, slip stitch from pin and repeat from * all across.

AUTOMOBILE STITCH.

First pattern row: with crochet hook pull a loop through first stitch, wool over and pick up another loop in same stitch, slip stitch from pin, wool over and pick up a loop in next stitch, wool over and through all 5 loops on hook, ch. 1, thus forming one cluster, slip stitch from pin, * wool over and pick up a loop in next stitch, slip off pin, wool over and pick up a loop in next stitch, wool over and through all 5 loops on hook, ch. 1, slip stitch from pin and repeat from * all across.

Second pattern row: pick up a loop in the back thread of second and all remaining stitches, retaining loops on hook (as in afghan stitch). The loop on hook will count as first stitch.

Second row: insert crochet hook in first stitch, draw wool through, ch. 1, slip stitch from pin. * Make 1 treble crochet through the next two stitches together, 1 double crochet through the back of the same two stitches, slip stitches from pin and repeat from * all across, ending by working final stitch as first was made.

LATTICE WORK.

This is a variation of ordinary crocheting, the stitches being those employed in that art.

The work is done with regular crochet hooks of various sizes, as designated in the instructions.

The novel feature is the fact, that in addition to the hook, one large wooden pin, made like an ordinary knitting pin, is required. On this pin the stitches are placed so that regularity in the height of the lattice work rows is attained.

These “Lattice Pins” are made in four sizes, the largest. No. 1, being almost four inches in circumference. For fine lattice work a knitting pin of the desired size can be substituted.

Using two threads of the principal color cast on 46 stitches for the lower edge of sleeve. K. 2, p. 2 for 15 rows. Knit 40 rows (20 purl). Knit the first stitch on pin throughout. On the 41st row increase by knitting 2 stitches in the first and last stitches of row. Continue to increase, in this way, on every fifth row until there are 56 stitches on the pin, then work without increasing, until there are 90 rows (45 purls) in all, for the sleeve. Cast on 70 stitches, knit back on these stitches and the 56 sleeve stitches, then cast on 70 more stitches. On these 196 stitches knit 30 rows. On the next row, k. 32, bind off 6 stitches for belt opening of front, knit until 42 stitches remain unworked, then bind off 6 stitches for belt opening in back. On the next row, change to a single thread of contrasting color and knit back casting on the 12 stitches which were bound off for the openings.

The Cro-Knitting band is next to be made of contrasting color. Beginning at the lower edge of the front make first fancy row as follows: with crochet hook pull a loop through first stitch on the knitting pin, slip loop from pin, * pull a loop through next stitch, pull another loop through the back of same stitch, slip stitch from pin, pull a loop through front of next stitch and another through back of same stitch, hold stitch on pin, wool over and through 4 loops on hook, ch. 1, pull a loop through back stitch of cluster, then slip stitch from pin, wool over and repeat from * until one stitch remains, do not throw wool over after last cluster, draw loop through final stitch.

Second fancy row: k. 2, * k. the next stitch and the stitch that was thrown over together, k. 1 and repeat from * until 3 stitches remain, k. 3. Knit 2 plain rows. Repeat the two fancy rows, knit 2 plain rows and again repeat the two fancy rows, for the last fancy row changing to 2 threads of principal color. This completes the band. It will 8be noticed that the wrong side of the first fancy row is shown on the right side of band.

Knit 11 rows, on the first two of these rows making openings for belt as made on the other side of Cro-Knitting band. The last row ends at the lower edge of the back. Knit 98 stitches for the length of back and run remaining stitches on to a thread; turn, k. the first 2 stitches together then knit to the end of the row. At the end of the next row knit the last 2 stitches together to shape the neck. Knit 22 rows, then 2 rows, increasing 1 stitch on each row, at neck end. Run these stitches on an extra pin or thread but do not fasten off wool. Take another ball and make right front. Cast on 94 stitches with contrasting color and knit 4 rows, make 2 fancy rows of Cro-Knitting, knit 1 row, on the next row make button holes, as follows: k. 3, * bind off 3, k. 8 and repeat from *. Eight button holes, in all. On the next row cast on the 3 stitches opposite those bound off. Knit one row then repeat the two fancy rows, on the last of these change to principal color. Knit 8 rows, then 4 rows increasing 1 stitch at the neck end of each row. The last row should end at the neck. Fasten off wool.

Take the stitches of the back from the thread on to knitting pin beginning with the stitch at the lower edge of back and with the ball of wool left there, work to the lower edge of the front. Knit 11 plain rows, not forgetting the belt openings, then 1 row of contrasting color and repeat Cro-Knitting band as made on first side. Make second side of back and sleeve to match first side. After finishing the 15 rows of k. 2, p. 2 ribbing on second sleeve, knit 2 plain rows, of contrasting color, then repeat the Cro-Knitting band as made on body of garment, making four patterns instead of three to form turn back cuff. Make two extra plain rows and bind off.

Pick up the 46 stitches at bottom of first sleeve and on them knit second cuff to match first one made.

Take the 98 stitches from thread and on them knit the left front, as follows: knit 4 rows, decreasing by knitting 2 stitches together at the neck end of each row, then knit 16 rows plain and bind off on wrong side.

Pick up 52 stitches around neck with contrasting color and knit 4 rows, 2 fancy Cro-Knitting rows, knit 1 row. Eighth row: k. 3, bind off 3, knit to end. On the next row cast on the 3 stitches bound off for the button hole. Knit 1 row, 2 fancy rows, knit 1 row and bind off.

Belt: using contrasting color, cast on 134 stitches and knit 4 rows, 2 fancy rows, k. 4 rows, 2 fancy rows, k. 2 rows then bind off on wrong side.

9Using the principal color, cast on 78 stitches and work, in Raspberry stitch, as follows:

Third row: with crochet hook make 1 d. c. in first stitch, slip stitch from pin; * 1 d. c. through the next two stitches, keeping the stitches on knitting pin, 1 s. c. through the back of the same two stitches. Slip the two knitted stitches from the pin and repeat from * all along the row, ending with 1 d. c. in the final stitch.

Sixth row: like third. These six rows constitute one pattern and are repeated over and over again for the whole jacket. After four rows of clusters have been made, decrease by knitting together the two first and the two last stitches of the knitted row. Begin the next cluster row by working a whole cluster through the two first stitches on pin and end row in same manner through the two last stitches. Make one more row of clusters, in same way, then decrease, as before, on the knitted row. The next two cluster rows will begin and end with 1 d. c. in the first and last stitches.

Continue to decrease in this way, until six stitches in all have been decreased at each end. 66 stitches remain. After two more cluster rows have been made, increase, by knitting two stitches in the first and last stitches of the knitted row, and continue to increase after each cluster row until 4 stitches have been added at each end. On these 74 stitches continue until the work measures about 23 inches, or is long enough to reach to the neck.

Divide for neck and shoulders, as follows: knit 28 stitches and run them on a thread or extra pin; bind off 18 stitches for neck and on the remaining 28 stitches begin the left front. Increase at the neck end, on each of the knitted and purled rows until there are 50 stitches on the pin. On these 50 stitches continue until four cluster rows have been made, then at front edge decrease 1 stitch on each of the knitted and purled rows, keeping the under arm seam straight until waistline has been reached; then increase at the under arm seam on the knitted and purled rows, every other time. Continue decreasing on front edge, as before. Work until front is as long as the back, and bind off.

Take the stitches from the thread and on them make the right front, as left was made, taking care to keep them opposites. Sew up the under arm seams, leaving enough space at the top for the arm holes.

BORDER. Around the entire garment and arm holes work, in plain crocheting, as follows:

Second round: 1 d. c. in each stitch of preceding round, putting extra stitches on rounding corners to prevent capping.

Third round: 1 d. c. around the post of each d. c. of second round. No extra stitches on corners. When this round has been finished turn it back all around garment.

Using the contrasting color, work around outside edge, as follows: * 1 s. c. in stitch, ch. 3, another s. c. in same stitch, skip 1 stitch and repeat from * all around. Work the same finish all around the edge of the turned-back round, skipping one stitch between picots around neck and sleeves and on the rounding edges skipping two stitches between or enough to make the border perfectly flat.

Fasten the right front over the left with crocheted buttons and frogs made of the contrasting color. The frogs are made of a chain stitch cord, using two threads of the wool. Use washable button molds and crochet a covering for them, as follows: ch. 3 and join in a ring, 6 s. c. in the ring. Do not join. 2 s. c. in each stitch of the preceding round, then widen enough to make work flat until the desired size has been attained. Make 1 round without widening and then skip every other stitch until proper size. Slip in mold, draw up and sew in place.

(Note—These directions are based on 16 skeins to the box Germantown. If the “10 skeins to the box” wool is used, the number of skeins required will be proportionately less.)

Using the Germantown and crochet hook, chain 62 and turn. Make 1 double crochet stitch (1 d. c.) in the fourth chain from the needle and 1 d. c. in each of the other chains. 60 d. c. in all, counting the three chains skipped as 1 d. c. Turn. The work should measure 14 inches in length and be ¾ of an inch high.

Second row: ch. 2, wool over and take up a loop through the front thread of the second stitch of previous row, wool over and through all three loops on needle, thus forming one short, double crochet stitch. Continue making 1 s. d. c. in each stitch to the end, always counting the chain made when beginning row as one stitch. Turn. 60 stitches.

Third row: chain 3, 1 d. c. in second and each succeeding stitch of previous row, taken through the double thread. 60 stitches.

Repeat second and third rows until there are five rows, in all, or the work measures 3 inches in depth; ending with a double crochet row.

The border is next to be made. Turn and * draw a loop through the back thread of first stitch and through the loop on needle, thus forming 1 slip stitch (1 s. s.). Repeat from * in each stitch of row. Turn. Make 1 single crochet stitch in each stitch of double crochet row taking up the back thread. Through the last stitch draw the Rococo wool and fasten off Germantown.

Lattice Work: draw up the loop of Rococo and slip it on the Lattice pin. This pin is held under the right arm firmly. Hold the wrong side of work toward you and with crochet hook pull a loop of wool through the double threads of second stitch and slip it on the pin. Continue drawing one loop through each stitch to the end—60 loops on pin. Join on the Germantown and fasten off Rococo. Slip loops off the pin. * Draw the fourth, fifth and sixth loops, in turn, through the first three loops and make 1 s. c. in each loop as it is drawn through; then 1 s. c. in each of the first three loops, thus forming the lattice. Repeat from * all along row. Turn.

Repeat the four border rows over and over until there are five rows of lattice work. Then repeat the first, second and again the first row. When making the second rows the stitches are to be taken up on the back threads of the fourth rows.

The center is made as the second and third rows of scarf were made: the first row of d. c. being taken on back thread of border and all subsequent d. c. rows taken through the double thread. Make center 50 inches long, then repeat border. Make 5 rows to match beginning and then begin border down the side of scarf. Make a row of s. c. putting 3 s. c. in the end of each d. c. row and 2 s. c. in each s. d. c. row, or enough to make work flat. Across the end of each lattice row chain 3. Be sure this row contains a multiple of six stitches. Turn and slip stitch on the back thread of s. c. stitches and across the 3 chained stitches. Continue as border was made on ends until two rows of lattice work have been made, then repeat first, second and again the first border rows and fasten off. Finish second side in same manner. Across the ends put a knotted-in fringe in every fourth stitch. Put six strands of Germantown in each tassel and cut strands 12 inches long.

(Note—These directions are based on 16 skeins to the box Germantown. If the “10 skeins to the box” wool is used, the number of skeins required will be proportionately less.)

Using knitting pins and principal color, cast on 28 stitches and work in Automobile Stitch (see page 6) until there are four patterns of 14 clusters each. Then increase by picking up an extra stitch at each end of every afghan row until there are 26 clusters in the row. Make three patterns of 26 clusters when the work should be long enough to reach to the neck. On the next afghan row, pick up 19 loops with the one on pin, (20 in all) and make two patterns of 10 clusters each for the left shoulder. On next afghan row, increase one stitch at the neck end, make 2 knitted rows then turn, pick up a loop in first stitch, wool over and pick up another loop in same stitch, wool over and through 3 loops on hook, ch. 1, thus forming a half cluster. Continue in regular way. On the next cluster row there will be eleven clusters. Continue increasing in this way, at neck end, ½ cluster on each cluster row, until there are 14 clusters in the row. Make four rows of 14 clusters. On the second knit row decrease as follows: k. 8, k. 2 together, k. 8, k. 2 tog., k. 8.

Decrease in the same way on each of the next 3 pattern rows, having 2 stitches less between the decreasings on each pattern.

Go back to the neck, skip 12 stitches and pick up the final 20 stitches for the afghan row. On these stitches make right front to correspond to left front.

Still using principal color, work around the entire jacket, as follows: * 1 s. c., ch. 1, skip enough space to make work lie flat and repeat from *. Draw a loop of the contrasting color through loop on hook. Ch. 1, draw up loop about ¾ of an inch, * wool over, pick up a loop in the chain space, wool over and pick up another loop in same space, wool over and through all 5 loops on hook, ch. 1, thus forming one cluster. Repeat from * all around jacket putting an extra cluster in each corner to prevent capping. Join with a slip stitch in the top of first cluster. Pull a loop of principal color through and make cluster round as before, putting clusters in the top of cluster of preceding round, followed by a round of clusters in contrasting color. Final round: use principal color, * 1 s. c. in top of cluster ch. 4, 1 d. c. in same space, skip 1 cluster and repeat from * all around.

Second row: k. 1, increase (by picking up and knitting the thread) k. 34, increase, knit 2, increase, k. 34, increase, k. 1.

Fourth row: k. 2, increase, knit 34, increase, k. 1, increase, k. 2 for center, then reverse directions.

Eighth row: k. 2, increase, k. 39, increase, k. 1, increase, k. 2 and reverse. Purl 1 row.

First pattern row: with crochet hook make 1 double crochet (see page 6 ) in the first stitch. * 1 d. c. through two taken together, 1 d. c. through the back of the same two and repeat from * ending with 1 d. c. in the last stitch.

Second row: k. 1, increase, purl the row, ending by purling the last 2 stitches together.

Ninth row: k. 43, * slip 1, k. 2 tog., pass the slipped stitch over and repeat from *, k. 43.

Tenth row: p. 40, slip 1, k. 2 tog. pass the slipped stitch over, p. 2, slip 1, k. 2 tog. pass the slipped stitch over, p. 40.

Eleventh row: (crochet) 1 d. c. * 1 d. c. through 2, 1 d. c. in the back of same 2 and repeat from * 17 times, more. 1 d. c. through 2, 1 d. c. through next 2 stitches, 1 d. c through next 2 and 1 d. c. in the back of same 2 (center) and reverse directions.

Twelfth row: purl 37, slip 1, k. 2 tog., pass the slipped stitch over, slip 1, k. 2 tog., pass the slipped stitch over, purl 37.

On the thirteenth row the instep tab is commenced. Knit 33, k. 2 tog., k. 6, k. 2 tog. Turn.

Repeat the last 2 rows until there are 40 stitches, in all, on the pins; then continue along the row, knitting the 15 stitches on the left hand needle. Purl 1 row.

First leg row: (crochet) 1 d. c., * 1 d. c. through 2, 1 d. c. in the back of same 2 and repeat from * 1 d. c. in final stitch. Purl 1 row.

Fourth row: purl 1, increase, purl the row ending by purling the last 2 stitches together.

Sixth row: purl 3, increase, purl along the row, ending by increasing, then purling last 3.

Repeat these last 6 (six) pattern rows, twice, then make four plain rows of alternate knitting and purling and bind off. Sew up seams.

Using two threads of the principal color cast on 50 stitches loosely and knit 14 rows (7 purls) in plain garter stitch. For the first stitch of each row, insert the needle as if to purl, slip stitch and put thread back under the point of the pin, thus forming a chain edge. The work should measure fifteen inches across and be three inches in depth.

The Cro-Knitting is next to be made. Draw two threads of the contrasting color through (one of Shetland and one of Felicity) but do not break off the principal color: knit two rows in plain garter stitch; then using same color and crochet hook make first pattern row. Insert the hook through the loop on the knitting pin as though it were a second knitting pin, holding the wool over the fingers of the left hand. Draw wool through first stitch and chain 2; slip the knitted stitch from the pin. * Wool over from back to front and pick up a loop in second stitch on pin, wool over and through 2; wool over in same way and pick up a loop in first stitch, wool over and through two, slip the 2 knitted stitches that have been worked into from the pin and repeat from * all along row; ending with ch. 2 in final stitch as first stitch was made.

Second pattern row: with same wool and knitting pin, slip 1, * over, knit 2 tog. and repeat from * all along row, knit final stitch. When knitting from the crochet hook the point of the hook must be kept pointing downward to avoid catching the wool.

Third pattern row: with principal color knit 1, * knit 1, knit the back of next stitch and repeat from * ending with knit 1 in the final stitch. Make three plain garter stitch rows in the principal color, followed by 2 garter stitch rows in the contrasting color. These 8 rows constitute the pattern and are repeated five times for the border at each end of the scarf.

The center of scarf is plain garter stitch and is 45 inches long. Repeat border, then make 14 rows, in garter stitch and bind off.

Pick up all the stitches along one side of the scarf with principal color and crochet hook, taking up both stitches of chain as one stitch and taking up 3 stitches in each of the stripes of contrasting color; knit off with knitting pin, making 4 rows of garter stitch, then draw through contrasting color, dropping principal color and make two rows of garter stitch, next make the three pattern rows, then knit 3 rows of principal color in garter stitch and crochet off with slip stitch, binding off that side of scarf; repeat for the other side.

Make a fringe across the ends as follows: * insert the crochet hook in first stitch on bottom of scarf and with double thread of principal color, chain 10 loosely, pull up long loop on needle,—wool over, insert hook into last chain made and pull up long loop, repeat from—four times, wool over and through all loops on hook, chain 1, pull up long loop and catch with slip stitch in chain in which cluster was made, make a tight s. c. around chain. Chain 10, skip 7 s. c. on bottom of scarf, 1 s. c. in the next and repeat from * all across the end. With two threads of contrasting color, make 1 s. c. in fourth stitch and repeat fringe as made in principal color. To gain the cross effect, slip chain made and ball of wool through long loop of principal color before making the s. c. in the bottom of scarf. The fringe for each tassel consists of 10 loops of 20 chain stitches made with single thread to correspond.

(Note—These directions are based on 12 skeins of Shetland floss to the box. If the “8 skeins to the box” floss is used, the number of skeins required will be proportionately less.)

Using a thread of each wool and the knitting pins, cast on 38 stitches, loosely. Knit two rows.

First pattern row: using crochet hook, knit two stitches, wool over and pick up a loop around third stitch of first foundation row, wool over and draw a loop through next stitch on pin, wool over and through 4 loops on hook, slip stitch from knitting pin thus forming one cluster. Knit the next stitch, * wool over, skip one stitch on first row and make cluster, (as before) around the next stitch and the stitch on pin, knit 1 stitch and repeat from * to the end of the row.

Second pattern row: k. 2 in the first and last stitches of preceding row and k. 1 in each intervening stitch.

Third pattern row: using crochet hook, k. 1, 1 cluster around end stitch of second pattern row and stitch on pin, k. 1, then work like first row, ending the row with knit 2.

Repeat these four rows until the scarf is the desired width, about 20 inches, then omit the widening stitches on the knitted rows, making all the crocheted rows like first row, until the work is 68 inches in length. Make second end of scarf to match first end; decreasing on each knitted row by knitting together the two first and two last stitches, being careful to preserve the pattern. When there are again 38 stitches on needle, bind off.

Down the side of scarf work scallop as follows: * 1 single crochet stitch in first stitch, ch. 2, 1 double crochet stitch in same stitch, skip enough space to make work smooth and repeat from * to the end. This is ordinary crocheting.

Across the end work in knot stitch as follows: * draw up the loop on hook about ¾ in., wool over and through loop this time very short since it is really the first loop of an s. c. Take up the second loop of the s. c. through the new long loop. Pull wool through the 2 loops on needle and the s. c. (or knot as it is called) is finished. The present loop on the needle should be pulled up long and corresponds to the first loop made. When it is pulled up, hold the knot just made between the thumb and forefinger and repeat directions from *. Skip one stitch on edge of scarf and make 1 s. c. in the next and repeat from beginning all across edge. Make scallop on second side and finish second end like first.

Cut the wool for fringe in ten-inch lengths and knot 4 threads of each wool through the s. c. in the center of each knot stitch loop.

Using crochet hook, chain 101; turn, skip 1 chain and make 1 single crochet stitch (1 s. c.) in each 18chain to the end. The work should measure full 20 inches. If a deeper bag is desired, the row should contain a multiple of 4 stitches, but more material will be required.

Second row: turn and make 1 slip stitch, as follows, on the back thread of each stitch of preceding row: insert the hook and draw cord through stitch and the loop on hook.

Third row: turn, 1 s. c. in the back thread of each of the s. c. stitches of first row, being careful to work into first stitch which is inclined to draw down and be overlooked.

Lattice row: draw up a long loop and slip it on the knitting pin, draw working thread in place. The pin is held under right arm firmly. Hold wrong side of work toward you and with crochet hook * pull a long loop of cord through the double threads of second stitch, slip it on pin, draw working thread in place and repeat from * in each stitch of row. 100 loops on pin. Slip loops from pin.

Fifth row: turn, * draw the third loop through the two first loops and in it make 1 s. c., draw fourth loop through and in it make 1 s. c., then 1 s. c. in each of the first and second loops, thus forming the lattice. Repeat from * all along row. Turn. Repeat second and third rows, for the latter taking up the back thread of stitches of fifth row. The second, third, fourth and fifth rows constitute one pattern and are repeated until there are 14 lattice rows: then repeat the second and third rows. Fold in center and slip stitch together working on right side.

Around the top of each bag crochet, as follows: beginning in the center heavy bar, of one side make 1 s. c. * ch. 2, 2 s. c. in next heavy bar and repeat from * all around ending with 1 s. c. in the center bar in which round was commenced, join and fasten off for one bag. For the second bag, after joining, draw up loop and work in knot stitch, as follows: draw up the loop on hook a full ½ inch, cord over and through loop this time very short since it is really the first loop of a single crochet. Take up the second loop of the s. c. through the new long loop. Pull cord through the 2 loops on needle and the s. c. (or knot as it called) is finished. The present loop on the needle should be pulled up long and corresponds to first loop made. When it is pulled up, hold the knot just made between the thumb and forefinger and repeat from *. Skip 4 chains on the top of bag and make 1 s. c. in each of the next 2 stitches and repeat from beginning all around the top of bag.

Second row: make 3 loops and 3 knots, as before, to turn 1 s. c. through the double thread on right side of last knot of first row and another s. c. on left side of knot (skipping the s. c. worked in first row), * then 2 loops and 2 knots catching down in next knot of second row, with 2 s. c. Repeat from * across row, a perfect square of 4 loops being formed every time the loops are caught down.

Repeat second row until the center of knot stitch measures 12 inches then slip rings over and join on second bag to match first.

Around the opening formed by the knot stitch, make * 1 slip stitch in knot, ch. 3 and repeat from * all around.

(Note—These directions are based on 16 skeins to the box Germantown. If the “10 skeins to the box” wool is used, the number of skeins required will be proportionately less.)

The Cro-Knitting stripe is made first. Cast on 26 stitches with the principal color. Knit two plain rows.

Third row: k. 1, * over, k. 2 tog. and repeat from * across row, k. last stitch.

Seventh row: with contrasting color and crochet hook, pull a loop through the first stitch, ch. 1 tightly, k. 1, wool over twice, pick up a loop, inserting hook from first to second opening in third row, wool over, through 2 loops on needle, wool over, pick up another loop in same space, wool over and through 3 loops on needle, again wool over and through 3 loops on needle, * k. the next two stitches tog., wool over twice, pick up a loop from the second to third opening in third row, 19wool over and through 2, wool over and pick up another loop in same place, wool over and through 3, again wool over and through 3 and repeat from * across row, k. the last 2 stitches.

Eighth row: with same wool and knitting pin, k. 3. * on the contrasting thread before the next stitch knit 1 stitch, then knit next stitch and repeat from *, knit last stitch.

Repeat 18 times when the stripe should be about 31 inches long and seven inches wide.

These ten rows constitute one pattern and are made over and over again until stripe is same length as Cro-Knitting stripes. Make another stripe in same way.

Join the stripes alternately, with single crochet stitches worked on wrong side of afghan.

Border. Across each end, with contrasting color, make scallops, as follows: 1 s. c. in first stitch, ch. 2, * wool over needle twice, skip about 4 stitches, (arranging scallops so that there are 3 on the Cro-Knitting stripe and 1 in the center of Diamond stripe) pick up a loop, wool over and through 2, wool over and pick up another loop in same place, wool over and through 2, wool over and pick up third loop in same place, wool over and through 2, wool over and through 4, wool over and through 2, ch. 2 and repeat from * twice, 3 clusters in same stitch, ch. 1, skip the required space, 1 s. c., ch. 1 and make same scallop all across.

With principal color make * 1 s. c. in first space of scallop, ch. 2, — 1 d. c. around the post at the top of first cluster, ch. 2, 1 s. c. in next space. Repeat from — twice. Ch. 2, 1 s. c. around the s. c. of row below, ch. 2 and repeat from * all across scallops.

Down each side, work as follows: * 1 s. c., ch. 2, 1 d. c. around the s. c. just made, skip enough space to make work lie flat, 1 s. c., ch. 1, skip as before and repeat.

(Note—These directions are based on 12 skeins of Shetland floss to the box. If the “8 skeins to the box” floss is used, the number of skeins required will be proportionately less.)

Wind the Shetland Floss in separate balls and use two threads. Cast on 200 stitches which should make length of scarf two yards.

First row: with two threads of Shetland and one of Persian Lamb used together knit each stitch: turn.

Second row: divide threads holding the Persian Lamb at the back of work, as regular knitting thread is used and the two threads of Shetland in front of work, toward left hand. * With crochet hook, pull a loop of Persian Lamb through first stitch, drop stitch from knitting pin then throw Shetland Floss over hook and draw it through the loop of Persian Lamb just made. Repeat from * in each stitch of previous row, always keeping Shetland Floss in front of work.

Seventh row: drop the Persian Lamb wool temporarily, add two more threads of Shetland Floss and using the four threads together knit 2 rows in plain garter stitch.

Repeat first and second rows, then two rows as seventh row was made and again repeat first and second rows.

This completes the border. Fasten off the Persian Lamb wool and substitute for it two threads of Shetland Floss.

Repeat first and second rows alternately until there are 20 ridges, which should measure full 12 inches for the center of the scarf.

Finish ends as follows: with two threads of Shetland Floss make 1 single crochet stitch in first stitch, * skip about an inch and a half along edge and make 13 treble crochet stitches (winding the thread over the hook twice) in next stitch, skip same space on edge and make 1 s. c. in the next stitch and repeat from *. There should be six of these large shells across end. Do not break off wool but work along the side of scarf, as follows: * 1 s. c., ch. 3, 1 s. c. around the post of the first s. c., skip 1 st. and repeat from * all along. Work the shells across second end and the scallop along second side, then fasten off.

With Persian Lamb wool work across ends, as follows: fasten wool in first stitch of previous row, * pull out loop 2 inches, pull wool through loop and make a tight ch. stitch to fasten it and repeat from * twice more, make 1 s. c. in same space on edge where wool was fastened 1 s. c. in first space of shell, ch. 1., skip 1 space, 1 s. c. in next space of shell and repeat until the center stitch has been reached. There pull up loop and fasten as before, make another two-inch loop and fasten; then 1 s. c. in the middle space of shell. * Ch. 1, skip 1 space, 1 s. c. in next space and repeat from * twice, then 1 s. c. in the single crochet stitch between shells and repeat from the beginning of row.

(Note—These directions are based on 16 skeins to the box Germantown. If the “10 skeins to the box” wool is used, the number of skeins required will be proportionately less.)

STRIPE IN CRO-KNITTING: with the principal color cast on 30 stitches and knit three rows. Do not break off wool.

Change to the contrasting color and knit 2 rows; then using same color and crochet hook make first pattern row. Insert the hook through the loop on the knitting pin as though it were a second knitting pin holding the wool over the fingers of the left hand. Draw wool through first stitch and chain 2. Slip the knitted stitch from needle. * Wool over from back to front and pick up a loop in second stitch on pin, wool over and through 2; wool over in same way and pick up a loop in first stitch, wool over and through 2, slip the 2 knitted stitches that have been worked into 22from the pin and repeat from * all along row; ending with ch. 2 in final stitch as first stitch was made.

Second pattern row: with same wool and knitting pin, slip 1, * over, knit 2 together and repeat from * all along row. Knit final stitch. When knitting from the crochet hook, the point of the hook must be kept pointing downward to avoid catching the wool.

Third row: with principal color, knit 1, * knit 1, knit the back of next stitch and repeat from * ending with knit 1 in the final stitch.

Make three plain garter stitch rows in the principal color, followed by 2 garter stitch rows in the contrasting color.

These 8 rows constitute one pattern and are repeated over and over until the stripe measures 68 inches. Finish with the garter stitch row of principal color. This stripe should be 8½ inches wide.

Braided Twist stripe: with the principal color, cast on 19 stitches and knit first row.

Third row: k. 5, slip the next 3 stitches on to a spare pin and drop them in front of the work, k. 3, knit the 3 stitches slipped, k. 8.

Seventh row: k. 8., slip the next 3 stitches on to extra pin and drop them behind the work, k. 3, knit the 3 stitches slipped off, k. 5.

Repeat these eight rows until the stripe is same length as the Cro-Knitting stripes. Make 2 more stripes of same length.

Join the stripes, one of each kind alternately, working with principal color in s. c. and on the wrong side.

23The border around entire afghan is made of the braided twist stripe as the connecting stripes were made. Each corner is mitered as follows: cast on one stitch and in it knit 1 stitch, then knit a second stitch on the back thread of same stitch, thus increasing, turn, knit 2 stitches in first stitch, one stitch in next.

Continue increasing 1 stitch on each row always on the same side and being careful to carry out the directions for the pattern until there are 19 stitches on the pin. Keep outside edge straight. Then work until stripe is desired length and decrease by knitting together 2 stitches at the same end of every row as the increasing was done. Sew up the mitered corners and sew or crochet border on working from wrong side, as before.

Ch. 3 and join in a ring. Make six single crochet stitches (6 s. c.) in the ring. Do not join as the work is done around and around both threads of stitch of previous round being taken up throughout the work.

Third round: * 2 s. c. in first stitch, 1 s. c. in each of the next two stitches and repeat from * all around.

Fourth round: * 2 s. c. in first stitch, 1 s. c. in each of the next 4 stitches and repeat from * all around.

Continue working, increasing just enough to keep the work perfectly flat, until the crown is four inches in diameter. For a larger size this diameter must be increased. There are 12 rounds in the model cap. At the end of last round, turn and work back for 10 stitches (about 2 inches) to form the neck rows. Turn, * skip one stitch, 1 s. c. in next and repeat from * 5 stitches on neck. Put one more s. c. in last stitch then work around crown to the other end of the neck rows, putting 1 s. c. in each stitch of previous round. Turn. Work back and forth to form front of cap without widening for 24 rows, in all, being careful to make first and last stitches of each row rather tighter than the rest so that the neck of cap is kept a good shape. There are 56 stitches on these rows on the model cap, which measure 12½ inches from end to end. The front should now be the desired depth, if not add more rows.

Final row of front: 19 s. c., 1 s. c. through the next two stitches taken together, 3 s. c., narrow as before, 4 s. c., narrow, 3 s. c., narrow, 19 s. c.

Chain 3, turn and work a row of ribbon holes across neck part, as follows: * skip 2 rows, 1 d. c. in the end of next row, ch. 1 and repeat from * all across, skipping one stitch on bottom of crown.

Border: ch. 3, * 1 s. c. in first stitch of front, chain 3, skip 3 and repeat from * all around front and neck, skipping fewer stitches at corners, to prevent capping.

Final round: * 1 s. c. in space, chain 3, one d. c. in same space and repeat from * all around.

(Note—These directions are based on 20 skeins to the box Saxony. If the “12 skeins to the box” wool is used the amount will be proportionately less.)

The yoke is made first. Chain 80 and work in afghan stitch (see Bear Brand Manual of Handiwork) for fifteen rows. The shoulders are next to be formed. Pick up the first 29 stitches and on them make 2 rows, then 2 more rows, on each of these rows picking up an extra stitch at the neck end; then with another ball of wool add a chain of 16 there and on the 47 stitches work 16 rows.

On the next row, work as follows: pick up perpendicular bar as usual then draw wool through stitch on needle, thus working off. Continue in this way until 18 stitches remain and on these stitches work the front tab. This should measure eleven inches, from the neck to end. Work off stitches, as before. Go back to neck and omitting 22 stitches there, work the second shoulder on the remaining 29 stitches, taking care to keep them opposites.

For the lower part of jacket, using the knitting pins, cast on 140 stitches. Knit three rows.

Fourth row: with crochet hook make 1 d. c. (see page 6) in first stitch, * 1 d. c. through the next 2 stitches (drawing up the loop high), keep stitches on pin, pick up a loop through the back of the same two stitches then slip them off pin and repeat from * ending row with 1 d. c. in the final stitch. These four rows constitute one pattern and are repeated over and over until sixteen patterns have been made. The arm holes are next to be made. On the fourth row of next pattern make 1 d. c. then 15 clusters as usual, then run all the remaining stitches on a thread or extra pin and on these 31 stitches work eight short rows, in all, and bind off. Take 31 stitches from the end of thread and make second front to match first. Bind off 4 stitches at each end of the remaining stitches for the armhole and on the 70 stitches left, make the back the same length as the fronts.

Sleeve. Cast on 48 stitches and make 11 patterns and three extra rows of plain knitting: then slip on hook and make 9 rows of afghan stitch for the cuff. Work off. Make second sleeve like first and sew up.

Around the neck make a row of ribbon holes, as follows: * 1 d. c., ch. 1, skip 1 and repeat from * all across, make 1 row of s. c. and fasten off. Baste the lower part of jacket to the yoke, holding the extra fullness across the back and fronts evenly. Join to yoke with slip stitches worked on wrong side. Sew sleeves in place.

Work pearl edge on all the edges and around the yoke and top of cuffs, as follows: 1 s. c. around the post of foundation, ch. 3, wool over hook and pick up a loop through s. c. just made, wool over and pick up another loop in same place * skip 1 stitch on foundation, draw a loop around the next stitch and through all the loops on hook, ch. 3. Wool over and through the third ch. from hook, wool over and through the same place and repeat from *.

Chain 16 and work in afghan stitch for 2 rows. On the third row widen one stitch when beginning and ending row by picking up an extra loop. Continue to work in afghan stitch, widening, as before, on the sixth, eleventh, fifteenth and twentieth rows. On each of the next seven rows narrow one stitch at each end of row by picking up 2 perpendicular threads together. This completes the back of cap.

Front band: chain 122 and make 13 rows in afghan stitch, finishing final row as directed for Dresden Baby Coat.

The center of cap is in Cro-Knitting. It is begun at the front. Using the knitting pins cast on 118 26stitches and work as directed for lower part of coat.

On the third row of second pattern, work as follows: k. 28, * k. 2 in the next stitch, k. 1 and repeat from * until 28 stitches remain, k. 28. Continue without further increase until there are 11 patterns, in all, then knit 3 rows and bind off.

Join the Cro-Knitted center to the front with slip stitches worked on the wrong side. Draw the other edge in on a gathering thread of wool and sew around the back of crown.

Using the crochet hook, chain 12 and work in afghan stitch for 27 rows. On the next row narrow by picking up the second and third perpendicular threads together, also the two just before the final stitch. Make one more row in same way and work off as directed.

Fasten wool to the tenth row from point, ch. 26 and join to same place on other side of afghan stripe. On these stitches the foot is to be made. Make 1 s. c. in each stitch all around leg and tab, putting an extra s. c. in each corner of the tab.

Continue working around and around in s. c., taking up both threads of stitch of preceding round until 4 rounds, in all, have been made, on each round putting 2 s. c. in the stitch on each side of the center stitch of tab.

On the next round leave 3 stitches in the center of tab, working 1 s. c. in each and increase in the stitches on each side of them, in the regular way. Sixth and seventh rounds: narrow each side of center stitch by skipping a stitch there. Eighth and ninth rounds: narrow at toe and also at heel by skipping 1 stitch at each side of center of heel.

Make a row of ribbon holes around the back of bootee, as follows: fasten wool in the 12th row from point of afghan stitch tab * ch. 1, skip 1, 1 d. c. in next and repeat from * all across.

With the knitting pin pick up a loop in each stitch of preceding row and knit 2 rows.

First pattern row: which should be worked on the wrong side of bootee. With crochet hook make 1 d. c. in first stitch, * 1 d. c. through the next 2 stitches (drawing up the loop high), keep stitches on pin, pick up a loop through the back of the same 2 stitches then slip them off pin and repeat from * ending row with 1 d. c. in the final stitch.

Knit 3 rows. These four rows constitute one pattern. Repeat until there are six patterns in all, and bind off.

Cast on 30 stitches. Purl 1 row, knit 1 row, * purl 2 rows, knit 2 rows. Repeat from * twice, then purl 2 rows.

Seventeenth row: k. 1, * over, k. 2 together and repeat from *, ending row with k. 1. Purl one row.

The foot of the bootee is in plain garter stitch throughout. First row: k. 14, over, k. 2, over, k. 14. Second row: plain.

Repeat the first and second rows until 21 rows in all have been made for the foot. On each widened row there will be one more stitch on each side of the widenings that are required to shape the front. The 2 center stitches are knitted between widenings always.

Twenty-seventh and twenty-ninth rows: narrow by knitting the second and third stitches together and the two next to last stitches together. All the even numbered rows are plain, without increase or decrease.

Thirty-first row: k. 1, narrow (k. 2 tog.), k. 16, narrow, k. 6, narrow, k. 16, narrow, k. 1.

Thirty-third row: k. 1, narrow, k. 14, narrow, k. 6, narrow, k. 14, narrow, k. 1.

Thirty-fifth row: k. 1, narrow, k. 12, narrow, k. 2, narrow, k. 2, narrow, k. 12, narrow, k. 1.

Bind off. Sew up the back seam and sole: then crochet an edge of tiny shells around the top, as follows: * 1 s. c., ch. 2, 1 d. c. in same place, skip 2 stitches and repeat from *.

(Note—These directions are based on 16 skeins to the box Germantown. If the “10 skeins to the box” wool is used, the number of skeins required will be proportionately less.)

The Cro-Knitted center of afghan is made first. Cast on 98 stitches and work as directed for lower part of “Dresden Baby Coat” (see page 25) until 40 patterns have been made. The work should be about 21 inches wide and 28 inches deep. Bind off.

BORDER: chain 108 and work in afghan stitch as directed for “Afghan Stitch Stripe” (see page 36) for 7 rows, widening by picking up an extra stitch at each end of every row. The first of these rows should be the exact width of the Cro-Knitted center. Final row: pick up loop, as usual, then draw wool through loop on hook.

For the afghan stitch side stripe, chain 7 and make stripe same length as center, narrowing one stitch (by picking up last two bars together) on the same side of each of the last seven rows to form the mitered corner. Make another stripe in same manner, taking care to keep them opposites. Sew up the mitered corners, then baste border to center. Use the wrong side of the fourth row of center as the right side of the work. Holding the right side of afghan stitch border toward you, make 1 short, double crochet stitch (1 s. d. c.) as follows through the first afghan stitch and the center: wool over and draw a loop through stitch, wool over and through all three loops on hook. Repeat in each stitch on all three sides of afghan, putting extra stitches at corners, to prevent capping. Holding the wrong side of work toward you, make a round of s. d. c. in same manner on the edge of afghan stitch border. Turn.

Work back around the three sides in double crochet stitches, putting the stitches between the s. d. c. stitches of preceding round. Put 3 d. c. in each corner. Fasten off.

Go back to other end and make puffs around the three sides, as follows: * 5 d. c. in the first stitch, drop loop and insert hook through the first d. c. made, draw loop through, ch. 1, skip 1 stitch of preceding round and repeat from *. After the ch. 1 draw loop, on hook, up a little to prevent work from drawing in at the top. Do not skip any stitches at the corners, but skip 2 stitches between puffs when working across the bottom of afghan. Fasten off.

Go back, as before, * 1 d. c. in the top of puff, 1 d. c. in the next chain and repeat from * on all three sides. Extra stitches in corners. Fasten off.

Final round: 1 s. c. in first stitch, * ch. 4—wool over and pick up a loop in first ch. made, wool over and through 2 loops on hook, repeat from—three times, wool over and through all 5 loops on hook, ch. 1, skip 2 stitches, 1 s. c. in next and repeat from *. Skip only one stitch on each side of corners, to prevent capping.

TURN OVER: ch. 122 and work 3 rows in afghan stitch. On the fourth row narrow by picking up second and third bars together, also the two bars just preceding the final bar together. Repeat these four rows, twice; then narrow on every third row three times. Narrow on every second row until there are 30 rows in all, then work off as final row of afghan border was done. Sew to top of afghan, then make the five border rounds, as before, beginning with the short, double crochet round.

(Note—These directions are based on 16 skeins to the box Germantown. If the “10 skeins to the box” wool is used, the number of skeins required will be proportionately less.)

Cast on 46 stitches for the lower edge of sleeve. K. 2, p. 2 for 15 rows. Knit 40 rows (20 purls). Knit the first stitch on needle throughout. On the 41st row increase by knitting 2 stitches in the first and last stitches of row. Continue to increase, in this way, on every fifth row until there are 56 stitches on the pin, then work, without increasing, until there are 90 rows (45 purls) in all, for the sleeve. Cast on 70 stitches, knit back on these stitches and the 56 sleeve stitches, then cast on 70 more stitches. On these 196 stitches knit 30 rows. On the next row, k. 32, bind off 6 stitches for belt opening of front, knit until 42 stitches remain unworked, then bind off 6 stitches for belt opening in back. On the next row, cast on 12 stitches which were bound off for openings.

The Cro-Knitting band is next to be made. Beginning at the lower edge of the front make first fancy row, as follows: with crochet hook pull a loop through first stitch on knitting pin, slip loop from pin * pull a loop through next stitch, pull another loop through the back of same stitch, slip stitch from pin, pull a loop through front of next stitch and another through back of same stitch, hold stitch on pin, wool over and through 4 loops on hook, ch. 1, pull a loop through back stitch of cluster, then slip stitch from pin, wool over and repeat from * until one stitch remains, do not throw wool over after last cluster, draw loop through final stitch.

Second fancy row: k. 2, * k. the next stitch and the stitch that was thrown over together, k. 1 and repeat from * until 3 stitches remain, k. 3.

Knit 2 plain rows. Repeat the two fancy rows, knit 2 plain rows and again repeat the two fancy rows. This completes the band. It will be noticed that the wrong side of the first fancy row is shown on the right side of band.

Knit 11 rows on the first two of these rows, make openings for belt as made on the other side of Cro-Knitting band. The last row ends at the lower edge of back. Knit 98 stitches for the length of back and run remaining stitches on to a thread; turn, k. the first 2 stitches together then knit to the end of row. At the end of next row knit the last 2 stitches together to shape the neck. Knit 22 rows, then 2 rows, increasing 1 stitch on each row, at neck end. Run these stitches on an extra pin or thread, but do not fasten off wool. Take another ball and make right front. Cast on 94 stitches and knit 4 rows, make two fancy rows of Cro-Knitting, knit 1 row, on the next row make button holes, as follows: k. 3, * bind off 3, k. 8 and repeat from *. Eight button holes, in all. On the next row cast on 3 stitches opposite those bound off. Knit one row then repeat the two fancy rows. Knit 8 rows, then 4 rows increasing one stitch at the neck end of each row. The last row should end at the neck. Fasten off wool.

Take the stitches of the back from the thread on to knitting pin beginning with the stitch at the lower edge of back and with the ball of wool left there work to the lower edge of the front. Knit 12 plain rows not forgetting the belt openings, then repeat Cro-Knitting band as made on first side. Make second side of back and sleeve to match first side. After finishing the 15 rows of k. 2, p. 2 ribbing on second sleeve, knit 2 plain rows then repeat the Cro-Knitting band as made on body of garment, making four patterns instead of three to form the turn back cuff. Make two extra plain rows and bind off.

Pick up the 46 stitches at bottom of first sleeve and on them knit second cuff to match first one made.

Pick up 52 stitches around neck and knit 4 rows, 2 fancy Cro-Knitting rows, knit 1 row. Eighth row: k. 3, bind off 3, knit to end. On the next row cast on the 3 stitches bound off for the button hole. Knit 1 row, 2 fancy rows, knit 1 row and bind off.

Belt: cast on 134 stitches and knit 4 rows, 2 fancy rows, k. 4 rows, 2 fancy rows, k. 2 rows then bind off on wrong side.

The entire scarf is made of two threads of Shetland Floss. Wind the balls separately.

Using two threads of white cast on 187 stitches, loosely, for the length of scarf which should be about two yards. Knit 2 rows: then drop one thread of white and fasten on a thread of the lightest shade of Floss and knit 2 rows. Make two rows of next shade and 2 rows of the darkest shade always carrying one thread of white wool. For the center of stripe make 2 rows of two threads of the darkest shade. Work back reversing the shades to match first half, finishing stripe with 2 rows of all white. The star stitch stripe is next to be made.

First row: use white wool and change to crochet hook. Insert hook into first stitch on pin and pull a loop through (retaining stitch on knitting pin). Ch. 2, skip first chain, pick up a loop in second chain from hook, one in the first loop, which is then slipped from pin, then a loop in each of the next 2 stitches which are slipped off in turn, wool over and through 4 loops, ch. 1. There are now two stitches on crochet hook.

For the second star, * draw wool through eye of preceding star (the little hole formed by stitch just made), through back of last loop of preceding star and through each of the next 2 stitches on the knitting pin, wool over and through 4, ch. 1. Repeat from * to the end of the row. Turn.

Second row: with knitting pin * pick up a loop in eye of first star, knit next stitch and repeat from * all along row, ending with knitting the final stitch. Be careful not to widen there. There are again as many stitches on needle as for the first row.

Fourth row: plain knitting, knit each over as a stitch. Make another shaded stripe like first one omitting the two rows of all white knitting when beginning stripe, but making them at the end of stripe.

Repeat the four rows for star stitch stripe and then the first and second rows. Make 2 rows of plain knitting all white, then make the shaded stripe. When the center of this stripe has been made, the scarf is half finished. Make second half to match first and bind off loosely.

Run a thread of wool across each end to draw work in shape before knotting on the fringe.

Cut the wool for fringe in 10 inch lengths and knot 4 strands for each tassel. Put a tassel in the end of each purl (2 rows) and arrange the colors to correspond to the shaded stripes.

Chain 238: turn, slip ball and end of chain through one of the hoops, skip 12 stitches and make 1 single crochet stitch (1 s. c.) on the horizontal thread on the back of next chain, thus joining handle to work. Continue making 1 s. c. in the horizontal thread of each chain until 50 chains remain unworked—176 s. c. in all. Turn.

Second row: make 1 slip stitch, as follows on the back thread of first stitch; insert the hook and draw cord through stitch and loop on hook. Repeat in each of the next 137 stitches. Turn.

Third row: 1 s. c. in the back thread of each of the 138 stitches of first row, being careful to work into the first and last stitches, which are inclined to draw down and be overlooked.

Lattice row (fourth row): draw up the loop on hook and slip it on the lattice pin, draw working thread in place. The pin is held under right arm firmly. Hold wrong side of work toward you and with crochet hook * pull a long loop of cord through the double thread of second stitch, slip it on pin, draw working thread in place and repeat from * in each stitch of third row. 138 loops on pin. Slip loops from pin.

34Fifth row: turn * draw the fourth, fifth and sixth loops, in turn, through the first three loops and make 1 s. c. in each loop as it is drawn through; then 1 s. c. in each of the first, second and third loops, thus forming the lattice. Repeat from * all along the row. Chain 50, slip ball and end of chain through the second hoop.

Sixth row: skip 12 chains and make 1 s. c. in the horizontal thread at the back of each of the next 38 chains, then 1 slip stitch on the back thread of each stitch of fifth row. Chain 50, slip ball and end of chain through hoop found there and turn. Be careful not to twist chains.

Seventh row: skip 12 chains and make 1 s. c. in horizontal thread of each of the other chains; then 1 s. c. in the back thread of each stitch of fifth row, being careful to work into the first and last stitches to keep work even.

Repeat the fourth, fifth, sixth and seventh rows eleven times. Place the two edges of bag part together and join them together taking up the back thread of each of the two first stitches and into them working 1 s. c. Continue in this way all across and fasten off.

Go back to the 50 chains that were left unworked, draw the end through the hoop, join on a thread and skip 12 chains, then make 38 s. c., as before, on ch. and join second side of bag as first side was joined. Cover each hoop with slip stitches.

Using the Zephyr Shetland and crochet hook, chain 69 for the neck of jacket. Work 2 rows in crazy stitch, as follows:

First row: skip 2 chs., make 3 d. c. in the third ch., skip 2 chs., 1 s. c. in the next. * Ch. 3, 3 d. c. in same stitch with s. c., skip 2 chs., 1 s. c. in the next and repeat from *. 22 shells in the row.

Second row: turn, ch. 3, 3 d. c. in s. c. below, * 1 s. c. in top of ch. loop below, ch. 3, 3 d. c. in same ch. loop and repeat from * in each loop across row, ending with 1 s. c. in the final loop. Fasten off wool.

Third row: turn and use the Pompadour wool. 1 s. c. in s. c. below, ch. 3 (to count as 1 d. c.), 4 d. c. in same s. c., * s. c. in ch. loop of next shell, 5 d. c. in s. c. below and repeat from * across the row, ending with 1 s. c. in final ch. loop. Fasten off Pompadour.

Fourth row (Lattice Work): use two threads of Zephyr Shetland and tie them to the Pompadour wool. * Draw a loop through the back thread of first d. c. stitch and ch. 1. Draw up the loop on hook and slip it on the knitting pin. Draw working thread in place. Repeat from * in each d. c. stitch of row omitting the s. c. stitches, 110 loops on pin for this row. Slip loops from pin.

Fifth row: * pull second loop through first 35loop, pull working threads through it, ch. 1, slip loop on knitting pin, as before. Pull working threads through first loop (thus crossing the two loops), ch. 1, slip loop on pin and repeat from * all across row. Slip loops from pin.

Sixth row: working with a single thread of Zephyr Shetland cross loops, as before and in each loop make 1 s. c.

Seventh row: with Pompadour make 1 s. c. in first stitch * ch. 3, 3 d. c. in same stitch, skip 2, 1 s. c. in next stitch and repeat from * all across. 36 shells in row.

Repeat the fourth, fifth, sixth, seventh, eighth and ninth rows. There will be 48 shells on the final row. This completes the yoke. The wrong side of shells worked with Pompadour is the right side of yoke.

The body of jacket is made of a single thread of Zephyr Shetland and is worked in crazy stitch.

First row: 1 s. c. in first s. c., * ch. 3, 3 d. c. in same place. 1 s. c. in s. c. after shell and repeat from * eight times; chain 12 for under arm, skip nine shells on yoke for shoulder, make 12 crazy shells across back, ch. 12 for second under arm, skip 9 shells and work 9 crazy shells to end of row.

Second row: work as for second row of yoke putting 4 extra shells on each under arm chain. Make 17 more rows in crazy stitch, then a row of Pompadour as ninth row of yoke was made. Follow with the three lattice work rows. Fasten off.

Using the Pompadour make a scallop of crazy shells all around jacket and neck, working from wrong side.

Sleeve: begin on the under arm chain, make 3 crazy shells there, 9 shells across the shoulder and 2 shells also on the under arm chain. On these 14 shells work back and forth for 15 more rows.

Seventeenth row: * make 1 shell as usual then a shell catching the s. c. through the ch. loops of the next two shells, thus narrowing and repeat from *. 9 shells in row. Finish the sleeve to match the border on lower part of jacket. Sew up and then put on the crazy shell scallop.

(Note—These directions are based on 16 skeins to the box Germantown. If the “10 skeins to the box” wool is used, the number of skeins required will be proportionately less.)

The Cro-Knitting stripe is made first. Using the knitting pins and white wool, cast on 131 stitches for the length of the stripe. Knit 2 plain rows.

Third row: with crochet hook pick up a loop in each stitch and work back as in plain afghan stitch (see directions for afghan stripe below).

Fourth row: again pick up a row of loops, taking them on the back perpendicular bar of the row below, instead of the front perpendicular bar. Knit back with knitting pin. Knit 2 more plain rows.

Fancy row: with crochet hook pick up a loop in first stitch and slip off pin, wool over, pick up a loop about ½ inch high in second stitch, wool over, pick up another loop in same stitch, slip stitch off pin, wool over, skip the first loop above afghan stitch row (it will be seen that this row formed a row of twisted loops) and pick up a loop through the next 4 threads (2 loops) drawing loop up about 1 inch, * wool over, draw up another long loop through same space, wool over, through 8 loops on hook, ch. 1, pick up a loop in next stitch, slip off pin, wool over, pick up a loop in next stitch, wool over, pick up another loop in same stitch, slip off, wool over, insert hook in last space where long loops were worked into, pick up a loop through the next 4 threads and repeat from * to the end of row, ending by picking up a loop in last stitch.

Next row: repeat fancy row, taking up the long loop just above the clusters made before.

Afghan Stitch Stripe: ch. 37, pick up a loop through the horizontal bar in the back of second and all succeeding chain stitches retaining loops on hook. There will be 37 loops on hook. This is half of the afghan row. Work back, as follows: wool over and through end loop * wool over and through 2 stitches and repeat from * to the end.

Second row: the stitch that remains on hook is the first stitch of this row. Pick up a loop through the second and succeeding perpendicular bars retaining loops on hook. The end stitch is picked up through the last bar and the thread back of it. This forms a chain edge which corresponds to the first edge. Work back as directed for first row.

Repeat the second row until the stripe is the same length as the Cro-Knitting stripe. It should be 7 inches wide. On each of the next six rows, narrow, as follows: pick up first loop, as usual, then draw it through the loop on hook, pick up succeeding loops and keep them on hook, pick up a loop through the last two bars together. Final row: pick up loop as usual, then draw wool through loop on hook.

Around the afghan make cord edge, as follows: fasten two threads of white wool at corner, fasten two more threads into third stitch; chain 5 with first 2 threads, slip stitch into fifth stitch of edge. Withdraw hook, holding second working thread over chain just made, chain 5, catch into seventh stitch. Continue all around afghan. It is necessary to twist the working thread as each loop is being made.

Tassels are hung in crocheted loops, as illustrated. These are made while working edge, by an extra loop of 10 chain in their respective places. Tassels: cut 40 strands each 10 inches long, pull through loops and tie double. Put network of buttonhole stitch over head of each tassel with green Glossilla.

Using the Pompadour and crochet hook, chain 3 and join in a ring. Ch. 3, * wool over and pick up a loop in the ring, wool over and through all 3 loops on hook, thus forming 1 short double crochet stitch (1 s. d. c.), ch. 1 and repeat from * 4 times; join to second ch. of the ch. 3 at beginning of round, with a slip stitch thus forming six spaces.

Third round: 1 s. c., 3 d. c., 1 s. c. all in the first space, repeat in each space of round, ch. 2, turn work and catch around first spoke of second round with a slip stitch.

39Fourth round: ch. 4, catch around next spoke and repeat all around; join and turn.

Sixth round: change to the Saxony, but do not fasten off Pompadour wool. * 1 d. c. on the left side of s. c. of preceding round, 1 s. d. c. in each of the next six stitches drawing them up so that the top of the work is evenly high, 1 d. c. on the right side of next s. c. and repeat from * all around. 48 stitches in round. Join.

Seventh round: draw Pompadour wool through from the back and pick up a loop in the front thread of first stitch, then draw this same loop through the loop on hook, thus forming one slip stitch. Make 1 slip stitch in front thread of each stitch of previous round. Drop Pompadour.

Eighth round: with Saxony chain 2, to count as 1 s. d. c.; then make 1 s. d. c. in the back thread of each stitch of preceding round, excepting that in the center stitch of each shell there are to be 2 s. d. c. 56 s. d. c. in round. Join. Repeat the seventh round.

Tenth round: * 1 s. d. c. in back thread of each of the first three stitches, 2 s. d. c. in next and repeat from * all around. Join.

Continue in this way alternating the Pompadour and Saxony rounds, on each of the Saxony rounds having two more stitches between the increasings until there are nine stitches between. Then make one Saxony round without any increasing. Repeat Pompadour round. On the next Saxony row the front of cap is commenced. Make 1 s. d. c. in each of the first 88 stitches and fasten off Saxony; the remaining stitches are left for the neck portion. Repeat the Pompadour row once more then commence the lattice pattern.

First pattern row: draw up a long loop of Pompadour and slip it on the knitting pin, draw working thread in place. The pin is held under right arm firmly. Hold wrong side of work toward you and with crochet hook * pull a long loop of Pompadour through the double threads of second stitch, slip it on pin and draw working thread in place. Repeat from * in each stitch of row. 88 loops on pin. Slip loops from pin.

Second row: turn, * draw the second loop through the first loop and in it make 1 s. c., then make 1 s. c. in first loop, thus forming the lattice. Repeat from * all along the row. Fasten off Pompadour.

Third row: go back to other end, make a loop of Saxony on hook, then make 88 s. d. c. along the row and fasten off. Take up both threads of the previous row.

Fourth row: go back, as before and make 1 slip stitch in the front thread of each stitch of third row. Use Pompadour.

Repeat these four rows, three times; on the last repetition of the third row make 36 s. d. c., skip one stitch, 4 s. d. c., skip 1, 4 s. d. c., skip 1, 4 s. d. c., skip 1, 36 s. d. c., thus drawing in cap a little around the face. Do not fasten off but turn and work across neck portion of cap. Put two more stitches in corner, 2 stitches in end of lattice row and 1 stitch in each of the other rows across front, across stitches left from crown * make 1 stitch through the back threads of two stitches taken together and repeat from * all across crown; then make second front like first and fasten off. Make fourth row of slip stitches, working across neck also.

Around entire cap, using the Pompadour wool, make a scallop as follows: 1 s. c. in first stitch, chain 3, 3 d. c. in same stitch, skip 3 stitches and repeat all around. At the corners skip 2 stitches only to prevent capping.

Sixth round: ch. 2, turn and catch around first spoke, ch. 6 and catch around next spoke. Repeat all around; join and turn.

Seventh round: 1 s. c., 8 d. c., 1 s. c. in first space and repeat all around. Fasten off. Make another ornament in same manner. Trim with three rounds of narrow ribbon loops, one loop back of each rose petal. Place tiny loop in center of each rose and center of crown.

Sixth row: * k. 1, p. 1 in first stitch, k. 2 and repeat to end of row. 28 stitches on pin.

Eighth row: increase in the usual way but have 3 stitches between the increasings.

Continue to increase in this way on every other row, always having one more plain stitch between the increasings until there are 16 rows, in all. 63 stitches on pin.

Seventeenth row: bind off 5 stitches, knit 55, bind off the 54th stitch over the 55th then knit and bind off the remaining stitches, thus binding off 5 stitches on each end. Fasten off Angora.

Second row: k. 1, then k. 2 in each stitch all across the row, ending with k. 1 in the final stitch.

Fourth row: k. 1, then k. 2 together all across the row, ending with k. 1 in the final stitch.

* Using the Angora knit six rows; then 4 rows of Glossilla, in pattern, as before. Repeat from * then knit 6 rows of Angora. Run the stitches on to a thread and sew up the crown seam of cap.

Pick up all the stitches across the neck of cap and on them knit 8 rows, with Angora, followed by 7 rows, in pattern, with Glossilla, then bind off on the eighth row.

Pick up the stitches along one end of the neck rows, take the stitches from the thread on to the pin again, then pick up the stitches along the other end of neck rows. Knit 10 rows, with Angora, then finish with the eight rows of Glossilla as was done around the neck.

MUFF. Using the Angora cast on 45 stitches and knit 12 rows; then * with Glossilla, knit 4 rows in pattern as directed for cap, followed by 12 rows of Angora. Repeat from * three times, binding off on the last Angora row.

Lay the side edges of the work together for the top of the muff. Pick up 36 stitches across the top, with Angora, taking them through both sides at once. Knit 5 rows, then with Glossilla, knit 7 rows in pattern and bind off on the eighth row.

Using the Eiderdown and crochet hook, make the lining, as follows: make a chain long enough to reach around the end and on it work in single crochet stitches, very loosely until the lining is the same size as the outside of muff. Sew up. Slip inside and sew the two pieces together around the ends using Angora wool.

Third row: k. 2 in first stitch, k. 1 in each of the remaining stitches. Repeat the third row until there are 20 stitches on the pin. * Change to Glossilla and knit 4 rows in pattern, as directed for cap; then 12 rows with Angora. Repeat from *; then make 4 rows with Glossilla. On the first row of the next Angora stripe knit together the two first and two last stitches, then finish the 12 rows as usual. Follow with Glossilla rows. Decrease in same manner on each of the next two Angora stripes. There will be 14 stitches on pin. On these 14 stitches make 3 more stripes of the Angora with Glossilla stripes between; then the increasings must begin to make second end match the first. On this end the increasing is done on the first row of each of the Glossilla stripes until there are again 20 stitches on the pin. Finish the end by narrowing off to a point. Using the Angora only make another piece in plain knitting exactly same size and shape for 42lining. Overhand the two pieces together using a thread of Angora.

Draw up one edge of stole in the middle part of it enough to make it fit well around the neck.

Finish each end with a tail made, as follows: cast on 2 stitches, with Angora; increase one stitch when beginning each row until there are 18 stitches on the pin. Knit 11 rows of 18 stitches each and bind off. Place a little soft cotton inside and sew up.

Second row: k. 1, increase (by picking up the wool between 2 stitches and knitting it), k. 22, increase, k. 2, increase, k. 22, increase, k. 1.

Fourth row: k. 2, increase, k. 22, increase, k. 1, increase, k. 2 for center and reverse directions.

Tenth and eleventh rows: use crochet hook and contrasting wool and work as directed for star stitch. (See page 33). The contrasting wool is used for the star stitch only.

Knit four rows then repeat the star stitch rows. On the eighteenth row knit the two first stitches together, then plain to the end of row. Knit one plain row.

Repeat the 23d row until 40 stitches, in all, remain on the needles, then turn and knit to the end of needle and make an extra stitch there for the star stitch row.

* Make 2 star stitch rows, then knit 3 plain rows, follow by one plain row knitting 2 stitches in first and last stitches of row. Repeat from * until there are six star stitch stripes, then commence the knee portion. Knit one plain row then * turn and knit until two stitches remain unworked. Repeat from * holding the unworked stitches on pin until 3 stitches remain, turn and knit these stitches and the stitches held on the pin on that side. Turn and knit back on row and then on the stitches held on other side. Knit 10 plain rows. The ribbon holes are next to be made. Knit 1, * over, k. 2 tog. and repeat from * ending row with k. 1. Knit 10 more plain rows, 2 star stitch rows, 4 plain rows, 2 star stitch rows, 6 plain rows and bind off.

(Note—These directions are based on 16 skeins to the box Germantown. If the “10 skeins to the box” wool is used, the number of skeins required will be proportionately less.)

Using the Germantown and crochet hook chain 101 loosely; turn, skip 1 chain and make 1 single crochet stitch (1 s. c.), in each chain to the end. The work should measure thirty inches, for the length of afghan. If a longer article is desired the row should contain a multiple of 4 stitches.

Second row: turn and make 1 slip stitch, as follows, on the back thread of each stitch of preceding row: insert the hook and draw wool through stitch and the loop on hook.

Third row: turn, 1 s. c. in the back thread of each of the s. c. stitches of first row, being careful to work into first stitch which is inclined to draw down and be overlooked. Through the last stitch draw the Eidersil and fasten off Germantown.

Broad Lattice row: draw up a long loop of Eidersil and slip it on the pin, then wrap the same loop a second time around pin, draw working thread in place. The pin is held under right arm firmly. Hold wrong side of work toward you and with crochet hook * pull a long loop of wool through the double threads of second stitch, slip it on pin and wrap the second time, as before, draw working thread in place and repeat from * in each stitch of row. 100 loops (200 wraps) on pin. Join the Germantown and fasten off Eidersil. Slip loops from pin. There will be 100 long loops in which to work the fifth row.

Fifth row: turn, * draw the third loop through the two first loops and in it make 1 s. c., draw fourth loop through and in it make 1 s. c., then make 1 s. c. in each of the first and second loops, thus forming the lattice. Repeat from * all along row. Turn. Repeat the second and third rows, for the latter taking up the back thread of stitches of fifth row. Draw Eidersil through and fasten off Germantown.

Eighth row: like fourth excepting that loops are slipped on pin and are not wrapped the second time. 100 loops.

Ninth row: turn, * draw second loop through 44first and in it make 1 s. c. then make 1 s. c. in first loop and repeat from * all across row.

Repeat the eighth and ninth rows twice more. These last 12 rows constitute one pattern.

Repeat from the beginning of the second row until there are six broad lattice rows: then repeat second, third and again the second row and fasten off. The afghan should now be 25 inches wide. The sides have no finish.

Across each end work, as follows: with Germantown make * 3 s. c. in the heavy band, ch. 3, 3 s. c. in next band—ch. 2, 1 s. c. in next band and repeat from—, ch. 2 and repeat from * all along. Turn. Repeat second, third and again second rows as given for afghan.

Fifth border row: with Germantown make 1 s. c. in end stitch, * skip 4, 5 d. c. in next, skip 4, 1 s. c. and repeat from * making 9 scallops across end.

Sixth row: with Eidersil, * 1 s. c. in first s. c., ch. 2, 1 d. c. around the post of first d. c. of scallop, 1 s. c. in second d. c., ch. 2, 1 d. c. around center d. c., 1 s. c. in fourth d. c., ch. 2, 1 d. c. around last d. c. and repeat from * all across.

(Note—These directions are based on 16 skeins to the box Germantown. If the “10 skeins to the box” wool is used, the number of skeins required will be proportionately less.)

Second row: knit 1, but do not slip it from the needle, knit a second stitch on the back thread of same stitch, after which slip stitch from needle thus knitting 2 stitches in 1 stitch. Do this on each stitch—14 stitches on pin.

Fourth row: k. 2 in first stitch, k. 1 and repeat alternately throughout the row—21 stitches on pin.

Sixth row: k. 2 in first stitch, k. 2 and repeat throughout the row—28 stitches on pin.

Eighth row: increase in the usual way, but have 3 stitches between the increasings—35 stitches on the pin.

Increase in this way on every second row until there are 10 stitches between the increasings, when there will be 84 stitches on the pin. Knit back.

First row of front: knit and bind 5, then knit to other end. Repeat first row. 74 stitches will remain.

Third row: with crochet hook, wool over and pick up a loop in first stitch, wool over and through 2, slip stitch from knitting pin, thus making 1 double in the first stitch. * Wool over and take up a loop through the next 2 stitches together, wool over and through 2, wool over and make another double taking it through the back of the same 2 stitches, then slip these stitches from pin. 45Repeat from * all across row, ending with 1 double in last stitch.

Fourth row: with knitting pin, knit 1, * over, knit 2 together and repeat from *: knit last stitch.

Fifth row: knit 1, * knit 1, knit the back of next stitch and repeat from *, knit 1. Make three rows of plain garter stitch. On these rows, for the first stitch, insert the pin, as if to purl, slip stitch and throw wool around the point of pin, then knit as usual.

These last six rows constitute one pattern. Make 3 more patterns and fasten off wool carefully. Run the stitches on to a thread and sew up crown.

Pick up 50 stitches across the neck of the hood—19 across each front—12 across crown. Knit one row, as follows: k. 19, k. 2 together six times, k. 19.

Make 8 more rows of garter stitch, slipping first stitch as directed and bind off.

Pick up 6 stitches along first end of the neck rows, take the stitches from the thread on to the pin again and pick up 6 stitches along the other end of the neck rows.

First row: slip 1, k. 29, * k. 2 tog., k. 4 and repeat from * until 30 stitches remain, knit 30.

Make eleven rows of garter stitch, then repeat the first four rows of the Cro-Knitting pattern. Make 5 rows of k. 2., p. 2 ribbing and bind off.

(Note—These directions are based on 16 skeins to the box Germantown. If the “10 skeins to the box” wool is used, the number of skeins required will be proportionately less.)

Each block is made separately and should be about 6 inches square. Using the white 8-fold Germantown, chain 30 and make two rows in plain afghan stitch. (See Afghan Stitch Stripe, page 36.)

Third row pick up the loops and work back on them, as usual, for 15 loops, then chain 5 and draw through loop (to form a popcorn) and work off the remaining 14 loops. These chain stitches should be pulled to the front of work.

Fifth row: pick up all loops, then work off 11 loops, 1 popcorn, 1 loop plain, 1 popcorn, 4 plain loops, 1 popcorn, 1 plain loop, 1 popcorn, 10 plain loops. This makes two popcorns on each side of the four center loops with 1 plain loop between the two popcorns on each side. This one loop is always worked between the popcorns and no further mention will be made of it.

Eleventh row: 2 popcorns on each side of the 20 center loops. This is the middle row of the block.

Hereafter the number of loops in the center of row is decreased as they were increased, always having one plain afghan stitch row between the fancy rows until the row having one popcorn in 46the center has been made. Make 2 plain rows to match beginning of block, then work off as follows: pick up first perpendicular thread, as usual, drawing the wool also through the loop on hook. Continue to work in this way in each perpendicular thread to the end of the row and fasten off. Make 15 white blocks, in all, and 15 blocks of the selected color. Join the blocks with single crochet stitches, working on the wrong side. Alternate colors in both width and length, the afghan being six blocks long and five blocks wide.

BORDER: using the cream white wool, make a round of double crochet stitches, putting 1 d. c. in each stitch, with extra stitches at the corners to prevent capping. This round should be perfectly flat. Join at the end of each round.

Second round: using the colored wool, make * 2 d. c. in first stitch, ch. 1, 2 more d. c. in the same stitch, ch. 1, skip 2 stitches of previous round and repeat from * if a ruffled border, as illustrated, is desired. If less fullness is wanted, skip 4 stitches instead of 2. Skip fewer stitches at the corners.

Third round: using white wool, make * 4 d. c. in the center of first shell, 1 d. c. between the shells and repeat from * all around.

Fourth round: using the color, make * 1 slip stitch, as follows: draw wool through stitch of previous round and also through loop on hook. Chain 3 and repeat from * in each stitch of third round. Fasten off.

The daisies are embroidered in the loop stitch with 4-fold wool, a colored one in the center of each white block and a white one in each colored block. All the centers are worked in French knots with the yellow Glossilla.

Using the Germantown, chain 100 and work in double star stitch, as follows: skip chain next to hook and take up a loop through each of the next 5 chains, (6 loops on hook). Have the first 3 loops quite short, the other 3 loops long. Wool over hook and through all 6 loops, ch. 1 snugly.

Second star: take up a loop through eye of first star (the little hole formed by the stitch just made), another through the back twist of last loop of first star, making 3 loops on hook. These are held quite short; 3 more loops, pulled long, are taken up, the first in the same stitch with last loop of first star and 1 loop each in the next 2 chs. There are again 6 loops upon the hook. Finish as with first star. Repeat second star until the length of chs. has been used up, then fasten off. The row should contain 48 stars and should measure thirty inches in length.

Second row: fasten wool at the very beginning of top of first row, ch. 3, take up a loop each in second and third chs. from hook, a fourth loop in back of first loop in star below, a loop in eye of star below and a sixth loop in back of first loop of second star below. Finish as usual. Second star, take up second and third loops as in stars on the first row and fourth, fifth and sixth loops as in star just made, finishing as usual. Work across as with second star and again finish off.

The last loop of final star is taken in back loop of final star of first row. Be sure there are as many stars as in first row.

Repeat the second row twice or until the stripe measures three and one-half inches in depth. Draw Persian Lamb through the very beginning of last row and make 1 single crochet stitch there. Continue making 1 s. c. in each stitch to end of row, chain 1 and turn. Work 4 more rows in Persian Lamb, putting 1 s. c. in each stitch of preceding row and taking up both threads of stitch. The Persian Lamb stripe should be two inches deep.

Change to Germantown and make stripe, as before. Continue alternating the Persian Lamb and Germantown stripes until there are 5 Germantown stripes, in all.

Border: using the Persian Lamb, work all 47around the afghan in single crochet, widening at corners by putting 3 s. c. in each corner on first round; putting 2 s. c. in each corner on second round. Alternate first and second rounds for the depth desired.

The work is begun at the neck with the Pompadour wool. Chain 147, turn, skip 1 ch., 1 single crochet stitch (1 s. c.) in the next, * ch. 4, skip 4 chs., 1 s. c. in the next and repeat from * to the end of the row. Fasten off.

Second row: go back to the beginning of first row and using the Zephyr Shetland, make 4 double crochet stitches (4 d. c.) in each chain loop across row drawing up the stitches so they are three-eighths of an inch high. Fasten off at the end of each row and begin next row at the other end.

Third row: use Pompadour and make 1 s.c. in the first stitch * ch. 4, 1 s. c. in the space between clusters and repeat from * all across, ending with 1 s. c. in the final stitch of previous row.

Every other row is made like the third row and no further mention will be made of it.

Fourth row: like second row until 6 clusters have been made. Make 3 d. c. in the next s. c. (thus increasing), make 8 clusters, increase as before, 9 clusters, increase, 6 clusters to end.

Sixth row: use Zephyr Shetland. Make 6 clusters, increase, 1 cluster, increase again (thus commencing first shoulder), 18 clusters across back, increase, 1 cluster, increase, 6 clusters. Every other row is made of the Zephyr Shetland.

Eighth row: 6 clusters, increase, 3 clusters, increase, 9 clusters, increase, 9 clusters, increase, 3 clusters, increase, 6 clusters.

Tenth row: 6 clusters, increase, 5 clusters, increase, 19 clusters, increase, 5 clusters, increase, 6 clusters.

Twelfth row: 6 clusters, increase, 7 clusters, increase, 10 clusters, increase, 9 clusters, increase, 7 clusters, increase, 6 clusters.

Fourteenth row: 6 clusters then fasten off. This is the first short row of left front. On it work the pattern rows 5 times, 6 rows in all. On the second and every d. c. row increase in the s. c. preceding the final cluster to shape the arm hole.

Skip to the other side of second increasing of shoulder, work to first increasing on second 48shoulder and fasten off. Work 6 rows in all across the back, increasing in the center of every second row.

The right front is made like the left, increasing at the beginning of rows instead of at the end.

First long row below the arms, work with Pompadour wool, as usual, across the first front, ch. 4, work across back, ch. 4 and across second front. On this row repeat the pattern rows until there are 8 cluster rows, on these cluster rows increasing in the center of back on every other cluster row. The last row will be a Pompadour row. Do not fasten off, turn, work up the front around neck and down second front. Fasten off. With the Zephyr Shetland make 4 single crochet stitches in each loop around the bottom and down the fronts.

Begin at the neck of left front and with the Pompadour make * 1 d. c. in the second s. c. below, then 1 d. c. in the first s. c., crossing it over first d. c. Repeat from * around the three sides of jacket. In the 4 stitches of each corner work the 2 crossed d. c. in one stitch, to keep the corners full enough for the succeeding rows.

Second border row: with Zephyr Shetland make 1 d. c. in each stitch of previous row, taking up both threads of stitch.

Third row: use Pompadour and make 1 s. c. in each stitch, taking up both threads.

Fourth row: like second. Turn and make 1 s. c. in first stitch, * ch. 3, 4 d. c. in same stitch, skip 3 stitches along edge, 1 s. c. in the next and repeat from * around jacket and neck. Join and fasten off.

Sixth row: use Pompadour and work on the right side. Make 1 s. c. in the center skipped stitch on fourth row, * ch. 3, 1 s. c. in top of ch. loop on fifth row, ch. 3, 1 s. c., ch. 3, 1 s. c., ch. 3, 1 s. c., all in the same loop, ch. 3, 1 s. c. in center of next 3 skipped stitches on fourth row, and repeat from *. Join and fasten off.

Sleeve. Make a foundation row of chains and s. c. in Pompadour, beginning at one end of the yoke and working down and around the arm hole to the opposite point of the yoke. This row when completed, corresponds to the third row.

Second sleeve row: work clusters in Zephyr Shetland. Continue in pattern without increase, until there are 13 cluster rows, in all. Next cluster row make 3 d. c. in each cluster instead of 4 d. c. On the next Pompadour row, ch. 3 instead of 4. Make a cluster row having 2 d. c. in each cluster, followed by a Pompadour row having 2 chs. to each loop. The sleeve should be the proper size for the wrist. Sew up. Finish with a border like that around the body of jacket and fasten off. Make second sleeve like first.

Through the open neck row run a cord chained of Zephyr Shetland and finished with tassels of the same.

KEEPING THE ENDS EVEN.

Few crocheters realize the importance of exactly following directions for the ends of rows. Skipping an occasional stitch seems a small matter to many, when that stitch comes at the end of the row and an occasional added stitch is decreed to be equally trivial. Yet frequently they spoil the work. Many a woman while making an afghan, after hours have been spent, finds that her work is all crooked, going off at an unexpected angle, although she may have followed directions exactly, excepting as to the ends. If you want straight edges, learn how the ends must be worked and make each row exactly as it should be.

TO STRAIGHTEN KNITTED OR CROCHETED FLAT WORK.

Wring out white cotton cloth in cold water. Spread cloth on table, then place article on cloth with the right side up, and pin in the desired shape. Cover with a clean, dry cloth and let it remain until entirely dry.

TO WASH WOOLEN ARTICLES.

Have lukewarm water in which some pure white soap has been dissolved. Soak the garment ten minutes, then squeeze out (not wring), removing the stains by squeezing between the hands.

Rinse through two waters, each of the same temperature as the water in which garment was soaked.

Most important is the drying process. If possible, lay the garment flat on a sheet where it will dry quickly. If a sweater or large garment is to be dried, it should first be dropped in the bottom of a pillow slip or cheese-cloth bag, the slip hung up by the open end and the garment be allowed to drip until nearly dry. Then spread on a sheet to dry, drawing the garment into shape from time to time and turning frequently. If it must be hung up, hang evenly.

The recognized authority on the arts of knitting and crocheting has nearly two hundred pages, full of illustrated instructions. It is a fund of knowledge, as well as pleasure, for beginners and experts.

It describes the famous Bear Brand Yarns and tells how to use them for making many beautiful garments, giving explicit directions from the first stitch to the last one.

If you have enjoyed the work as planned in this Cro-Knitting book you should certainly have the MANUAL which has been compiled with equal care. If you are not interested now, you will doubtless become so upon seeing the many beautiful pictures it contains of garments photographed on living models.

The “Boy’s Military Outfit” illustrated is one of the 250 new designs described in the latest edition.

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The Project Gutenberg eBook of Cro-knitting

Cro-Knitting The New Art of Worsted Work ALSO Crocheted Lattice Work PRESENTING A COLLECTION OF ORIGINAL AND ATTRACTIVE DESIGNS WITH FULL WORKING DIRECTIONS

FOREWORD

CRO-KNITTING

SINGLE CROCHET STITCH.

DOUBLE CROCHET STITCH.

TREBLE CROCHET STITCH.

AUTOMOBILE STITCH.

CLUSTER STITCH.

LATTICE WORK.

YOUNG GIRL’S NORFOLK.

CUTAWAY JACKET.

LATTICE WORK SCARF.

PORCH JACKET IN CRO-KNITTING.

ENGLISH SLEEPING SOCKS.

BORDERED SCARF IN CRO-KNITTING.

EMPIRE SCARF IN CRO-KNITTING.

SCHOOL BAG IN LATTICE WORK.

AFGHAN WITH DIAMOND STRIPE.

PERSIAN SCARF.

POLISH AFGHAN.

ANGORA ROSEBUD CAP.

DRESDEN BABY COAT.

DRESDEN BABY CAP.

DRESDEN BOOTEES.

KNITTED ANGORA BOOTEES.

DRESDEN BABY AFGHAN.

CHILD’S NORFOLK.

STAR STITCH SCARF IN CRO-KNITTING.

LATTICE WORK SHOPPING BAG.

CHILD’S JACKET WITH LATTICE WORK.

AFGHAN WITH CROSS-STITCH EMBROIDERY.

ROSE CAP.

CHILD’S ANGORA SET.

STAR STITCH STOCKINGS.

LATTICE WORK AFGHAN.

DUTCH HOOD IN CRO-KNITTING.

DAISY AFGHAN.

AFGHAN WITH PERSIAN LAMB STRIPES

INFANT’S JACKET IN SQUARES.

KEEPING THE ENDS EVEN.

TO STRAIGHTEN KNITTED OR CROCHETED FLAT WORK.

TO WASH WOOLEN ARTICLES.

THE FULL PROJECT GUTENBERG LICENSE

Cro-Knitting
The New Art of Worsted Work
ALSO
Crocheted Lattice Work
PRESENTING A COLLECTION OF ORIGINAL AND ATTRACTIVE DESIGNS WITH FULL WORKING DIRECTIONS