Khaki Knitting Book

Edited by

OLIVE WHITING

COPYRIGHT 1917, by ALLIES SPECIAL AID

19 East 37th Street, New York, N. Y.

This book is in no sense an instruction book, but for those who are familiar with the art of knitting the articles therein will be found practical and easy to make.

Thanks are due to the following:

American Polish Relief Committee, American Red Cross, Bear Brand Yarn Mfrs., Columbia Yarns, Comité Franco-American, Miss A. M. Drury, S. B. & B. W. Fleisher, Incorporated, Mrs. Horace Leeds, Modern Knitting Book, Modern Priscilla, Navy League Leaflet, Utopia Yarn Book and Mrs. Mary Willard, for permission to use directions and illustrations without which the book could not have been compiled.

The money from the sale of the Khaki Knitting Book goes to the Allies and anyone lending the book to a friend who can afford to buy one, defrauds the Allies.

Cast on 75 stitches for the back and knit plain. Work 75 ribs (2 rows form a rib) then increase 1 stitch at each end every other row until there are 91 stitches on the needle. Now cast on 65 stitches at each end for sleeves, work 30 ribs, slip the first 95 stitches off on an extra needle, bind off the next 31 stitches for the neck and on the remaining 95 start the front.

Front: Work 6 ribs for the shoulder, now increase 3 stitches every other row towards the neck until there are 110 stitches on the needle, work 23 ribs on this length, now bind off 65 stitches for the sleeves. Then decrease 1 stitch every other row towards the armhole until 37 stitches remain; work 75 ribs this length and bind off. Work 2nd front to correspond. Use the yarn double for the collar and cuffs. Pick up 50 stitches at the end of the sleeves for the cuffs, and work 17 ribs, bind off loosely. Sew up the underarm and sleeves. Pick up the stitches around the bottom of the sweater, work 14 ribs, bind off. Pick up the stitches in the right front, work 6 ribs and on the next row work buttonholes as follows. Knit 4 stitches* bind off 3 stitches, knit 15 stitches, repeat from * until you have 7 buttonholes. On the next row cast on 3 more stitches over the bound-off stitches, work 6 ribs more, bind off. Work border on left front omitting buttonholes. For the collar cast on 23 stitches, work 68 ribs, bind off, sew on to sweater leaving ½ the border extending beyond the collar each side.

For sleeveless jacket, cast on 80 stitches. Knit 2, purl 2, for 4 inches. Knit plain until sweater measures 25 inches. Knit 28 stitches, bind off 24 stitches for neck, knit 28 stitches. Knit these last 28 stitches back and forth until you have made 7 ribs or 14 rows. This makes the shoulder. Cast on 24 stitches. Knit the 28 stitches on end of needle back and forth until you have 7 ribs, for the second shoulder. Knit plain for 21 inches. Purl 2, knit 2, for 4 inches. Sew up side, leaving 9 inches for armholes. Crochet 2 loose rows around each armhole and neck.

Note—2 rows form a rib.

Back—Cast on 75 stitches, knit plain for 18 inches, then increase 1 stitch at each end every other row 5 times, cast on 65 stitches at each end for sleeves. Knit 30 ribs, slip the first 95 stitches off on an extra needle, bind off 25 stitches for the neck and on the remaining 95 stitches start the front.

Front—Knit 5 ribs, then cast on 16 stitches toward the front, work 20 ribs, work second front to correspond, slip all the stitches on to one needle and work 9 ribs, now bind off 65 stitches at each end, this completes the sleeves, decrease 1 stitch at each end every other row 5 times, work on this length until front is as long as back, bind off loosely.

Cuffs—With Angora Wool pick up 50 stitches at end of sleeve, knit 16 ribs, bind off.

Collar—With Angora Wool cast on 20 stitches, knit 14 inches, bind off, sew in place, finish the front of neck with a row of slip stitches.

Girdle—Cast on 26 stitches, knit plain for 1½ yards.

Balls—With Angora Wool make a chain of 4 stitches, join in a ring, work round, working 2 Sg. C. in each stitch (always taking up the back loop of preceding row) until there are 22 stitches, work 8 rows plain, fill ball with cotton, decrease in the same manner as you increased until 4 stitches remain, draw together and sew to end of girdle.

Cast on 92 stitches, knit 2, purl 2, for 4 inches. Knit plain for 21 inches, then knit 31 stitches, bind off 28 stitches; knit 31 stitches. Knit 7 ribs on each shoulder, cast on 28 stitches; knit plain 21 inches and knit 2, purl 2, for 4 inches. Sew up sides leaving ten inches for the armhole.

Cast on 84 stitches. Knit 26 rows, 2 seam and 2 plain; knit 23 inches plain; knit 30 stitches and bind off loosely 24 stitches for the neck. Knit remaining 30 stitches. For shoulders knit 10 ribs (20 rows) on each of 30 stitches; then cast on 24 stitches, knit the 30 stitches on shoulder and then knit 23 inches of 84 stitches plain as before, knitting 2 seam and 2 plain for 26 rows. Sew together under the arms.

Cast on 52 stitches. Knit 2, purl 2, for 12 inches. Sew up, leaving 2-inch space for thumb 3 inches from top. Take up stitches and knit 4 rows for thumb. Bind off.

Cast on 52 stitches and knit 2, purl 2, for 12 inches. Sew up leaving slit for the thumb 2 inches long, 3 inches from one end.

Cast on 60 stitches (20 on each of the three needles), rib for 9 inches. Cast off loosely.

To make a wristlet with a thumbhole, use the same size needles. Cast on 60 stitches, 20 on each of the three needles; rib for 8 inches, cast off 9 stitches; knit 2 rows back and forth; cast on again the 9 stitches and knit 2 inches more. Bind off.

Cast on 48 stitches, knit 2 and purl 2 for 12 inches, and sew up leaving 2 inches open space for thumb 2 inches from the edge.

Cast on 52 stitches on 3 needles; 16–16–20. Knit 2, purl 2, for 8 inches. To make opening for thumb, knit 2, purl 2, to end of 3d needle, turn; knit and purl back to end of 1st needle, always slipping first stitch; turn. Continue knitting back and forth for 2 inches. From this point continue as at first for 4 inches for the hand. Bind off loosely and buttonhole thumb opening.

Chain 45 stitches. Join with slip stitch. 1st row: 1 single crochet in each chain stitch. 2nd row: 1 single crochet in each stitch. Repeat 2nd row for 40 rows. 41st row: 1 single crochet in each of first 19 stitches, chain 7, skip 7, for buttonhole, and 1 single crochet in each of the next 19 stitches. 42nd row: 1 single crochet in each stitch and 1 single crochet in each chain stitch of 7. Repeat 42nd row for 15 rows and finish around with slip stitch in each stitch. Fasten off.

5On beginning chain at wrist, fasten yarn. 1 single crochet in stitch, * chain 1, 1 single crochet in same stitch, skip 1 stitch, and 1 single crochet in next stitch; repeat around from *.

Cast on 60 stitches, 20 stitches on each of 3 needles. Knit 2, purl 2, for 32 rounds. Knit plain for 11 inches.

The Heel—Put 30 stitches on the first needle, then equally divide the remaining stitches (required for the instep), on the second and third needles, to be left until the heel is finished.

On the 30 stitches knit alternately plain and purl 30 rows, always slipping the first stitch.

To turn the heel, knit 18, slip 1, knit 1, pass the slipped stitch over the knitted, turn, purl 8, purl 2 together, turn, knit 8, slip 1, knit 1, pass the slipped stitch over. Continue working in this manner until all the stitches are worked in, having the nine stitches on the needle under the heel, knit the two center stitches together.

The Instep—Knit across the first needle, and pick up 15 stitches on the side of the heel; knit on to the second needle the 30 stitches which were left for the instep; and with the third needle pick up the 15 stitches on the other side of the heel, and knit off 4 stitches from the first needle.

Knit 2 rounds plain.

To decrease knit the 3rd and 4th stitches together from the end of the first needle, knit across the second needle, and on the third needle, knit 2, slip 1, knit 1, pass the slipped stitch over. Do this in every third round until there are 15 stitches on each of the first and third needles.

Knit plain until the work measures 7 inches from the heel.

For the Toe—* Knit to within the last 3 stitches on the first needle, knit 2 together, knit 1: on the instep needle, knit 1, slip 1, knit 1, pass the slipped stitch over, knit to the last 3 stitches, knit 2 together, knit 1; on the third needle, knit 1, slip 1, knit 1, pass the slipped stitch over, knit to the end of the needle. Knit 1 round plain.

Repeat from * until the stitches are reduced to 24.

Divide the instep and foot stitches equally on to 2 needles. Turn the sock inside out and cast off the 2 needles together.

Cast on 50 stitches. Knit 2, purl 2, for 30 rows. Knit 2 rows plain. Knit 24 stitches, increase 1 stitch and knit to end of row. Knit 25 stitches on next row, increase 1 stitch, knit 2, increase 1, and knit to end of row. Continue this widening in the center until you have 100 stitches, then knit 2 rows plain. Bind off, and sew up the back and foot.

Cast on 64 stitches, and rib in rows of knit 2, purl 2, for 4½ inches. Knit plain until the stocking measures 12 inches including the ribbing.

The Heel—Knit 32 stitches on to one needle, and leave the remaining 32 on the other two needles for the instep. On the heel needle knit 30 rows of alternate knitting and purling, always slipping the first stitch. Then with the inside of the heel toward you, purl 18, purl 2 together, purl 1, turn. Knit 6 stitches, slip 1, knit 1, pass the slipped stitch over, knit 1, turn. Purl 7 stitches, purl 2 together, purl 1, turn. Knit 8 stitches, slip 1, knit 1, pass the slipped stitch over, knit 1, turn. Purl 9 stitches, purl 2 together, purl 1, turn. Knit 10 stitches, slip 1, knit 1, pass the slipped stitch over, knit 1, turn. Purl 11, purl 2 together, purl 1, turn. Knit 12, slip 1, knit 1, pass the slipped stitch over, knit 1, turn. Purl 13, purl 2 together, purl 1, turn. Knit 14, slip 1, knit 1, pass slipped stitch over, knit 1, turn. Purl 15, purl 2 together, purl 1, turn. Knit 16, slip 1, knit 1, pass the slipped stitch over, knit 1, turn. Purl 17, purl 2 together, turn. Knit 17, slip 1, knit 1, pass slipped stitch over. Pick up 16 stitches along the sides of the heel flap, knitting each stitch as you pick it up. Knit 7the 32 stitches of the instep needles on to one needle. Pick up and knit the 16 stitches along the other side of the heel flap, and knit on to this needle 9 stitches from the first needle.

Knit 1 round plain.

The Gussets—* On the first needle, knit to within 3 stitches of the end of needle, knit 2 together, knit 1. Knit instep needle plain. On third needle, knit 1, slip 1, pass the slipped stitch over, knit plain to end of needle. Knit 1 round plain *.

Repeat between * * until there are 62 stitches on the needles. Knit plain until the foot measures 9 inches (measured from the back of the heel).

The Toe—Knit 7, slip 1, knit 1, pass the slipped stitch over, repeat to the end of round. Knit 6 rows plain. Knit 5, slip 1, knit 1, pass slipped stitch over, repeat to end of round. Knit 4 rows plain. Knit 3, slip 1, knit 1, pass the slipped stitch over, repeat to end of round. Knit 3 rounds plain. Knit 2, slip 1, knit 1, pass the slipped stitch over, repeat to end of round. Knit 2 rounds plain. Knit 1, slip 1, pass the slipped stitch over, repeat to end of the round. Knit 1 round plain. Knit 1 round, decreasing once on the first needle, twice on the instep needle, and once on the third needle. This should leave 4 stitches on each of the foot needles and 8 on the instep needle. Knit the stitches on the two foot needles off on to one needle. Holding the two needles together, knit off 1 stitch from each needle at a time, bind off, and fasten end of wool securely. Length of finished foot should be 11 inches.

(Foot measures 10½ inches)

Cast on 60 stitches (20 on each needle), rib in rows of knit 2, purl 2, or knit 3, purl 1, for 4 inches. Knit plain until the leg measures 11 inches including the ribbing. Divide the stitches so that one needle contains 30 stitches with 15 on each of the other 2 needles.

To Make Heel—Work forward and backward along the needle with the greatest number of stitches, slip 1, purl 1. Every row is the same, knit 16 rows and finish along the inside row. To turn the heel flap. Begin on an outside row. Slip 1, knit 11, * knit 2 together, knit 2, knit 2 together, knit plain to end of row * then purl along the inside row. Outside Row. Slip 1, knit 10 and repeat * to *. Continue knitting the inside and outside rows, knitting 1 less after the slip one in each outside row until there are 812 stitches on the needle. Finish along an inside row. To pick up the sides of the Heel Flap. Pick up and knit the inner loops of the chain at the left side of the flap, adding these to the 12 already on the heel needle.

Knit along the front of the sock, working the stitches on to one needle ready for the instep. Pick up and knit the inner loops of the chain at the right-hand side of the flap, and take off half of the 12 heel stitches on to this needle, dividing the stitches evenly on the 2 heel needles. The foot is knitted plain.

Now count the stitches in the whole round. The difference between this number and the number of stitches in a round at the ankle will give the number of stitches to be decreased at the instep. Then divide number of stitches to be decreased by two and this will give the number of rounds in which intakes must be worked.

To work round of instep decreasings. Knit to within 2 stitches of the end of the left-hand heel needle, knit these 2 together. Knit along the instep needle. At the beginning of the right-hand heel slip 1, knit 1, and pull the slipped stitch over the knitted one. Knit to the end of round. Go on decreasing in this way until you have 4 consecutive rounds, then every other round until you have 15 stitches on each heel needle; the number of stitches on the 2 heel needles should be equal to the instep needle. Continue knitting plain rounds until the foot measures 9 inches, then commence to shape the toe, by beginning on the instep needle with 30 stitches.

1st round. * Slip 1, knit 2 together, † slip 1, knit 1; repeat from † to within 3 stitches of the end of the needle, then knit 2 together, knit 1. The 2 back needles with 15 stitches on each are to be treated as one needle and worked as the instep needle, therefore repeat from *. This completes the round.

2nd round. † knit 1, slip 1, repeat from † to end of round, knitting the last stitch.

3rd round. † Slip 1, knit 1, repeat from † to end of round, knitting the last stitch. Repeat from * to the end of third round 3 times. There should be 44 stitches in the round.

Next round. ** Slip 1, knit 2 together; * Slip 1, knit 1; repeat from * to within three of the end of needle, then knit 2 together. Knit 1. Repeat from ** for the working of the two back needles, treating them as one.

Next round. * Knit 1, slip 1; repeat from * to end of round, but knit the last stitch. Repeat from ** till the stitches number 12.

Divide the stitches equally on 2 needles and cast off, darning the end of the wool up and down the side of the toe to make the fastening very secure. Fold the sock along the centre back of leg and press under a heavy weight.

Cast on 80 stitches equally divided on 4 needles. Knit 2, purl 2, making rib of 2 and 2 for 50 rows.

Now begin to knit plain, making 1 stitch the seam stitch. Continue knitting plain until the sock measures 7 inches in length (including the ribbing). Now narrow on each side of the seam stitch for the ankle. This is done by knitting to within last 3 stitches of seam, then slip 1, knit 1, draw the slipped stitch over the knitted one, knit 1, purl the seam stitch, knit 1, knit 2 together, knit the rest plain. Repeat this 5 times, doing 5 rounds between each narrowing. Now knit plain until the leg measures 10½ inches.

Divide the stitches for the heel, have 17 on each side of seam; knit and purl the stitches until the heel measures 3 inches. Always slip first stitch whether it be knitted or purled.

Now knit across, knit 20 stitches, knit 2 together, knit 1, turn; purl 5, purl 2 together, purl 1, turn; knit 5, knit 2 together, knit 1, repeat these 2 rows until you have only 7 stitches left. Now pick up side stitches, do 3 plain, then narrow.

First pin of heel; knit 1, knit 2 together, knit the rest plain.

Second pin, knit to within the last three stitches, slip 1, knit 1, pass the slipped stitch over the knitted one, knit 1: do 2 plain rounds between each narrowing. There should be 6 narrowings. Next knit plain until you have 8 inches.

Now divide stitches for the toe, half on front pin, one quarter on each of the other pins. The front must lie flatly on the sole of foot.

(First pin). Knit 1, knit 2 together, knit to within the last 3 stitches, slip 1, knit 1, pass the slipped stitch over the knitted one, knit 1.

(Second pin). Knit 1, knit 2 together, knit the rest plain.

(Third pin). Knit to within the last 3 stitches, slip 1, knit 1, pass the slipped stitch over the knitted one; do 2 plain rounds between each narrowing. Repeat this until you have only 24 stitches left on pins, or until the foot measures 10 inches. Bind off and sew up.

Cast on 68 stitches (20 on 1 needle, 24 on 2nd and 3rd needles): knit in rib of 2 plain, 2 purl for 26 rounds.

1027th round. Knit 10 (pick up an extra stitch now and purl it always for seam stitch), knit plain to end of round.

Repeat the 27th round until the 57th round is reached.

57th round. 1st decreasing. Knit to within 3 of seam stitch, knit 2 together, knit 1, purl the seam stitch, knit 1, slip 1, knit 1, pass the slipped stitch over the knitted one, knit to the end of round.

Repeat this decreasing every 6th round, having decreased 4 times.

Now knit without decreasing for 24 rounds, then prepare for the heel as follows.

For the Heel: place 15 stitches on each side of the middle seam stitch, and knit these 31 stitches backward and forward for 25 rows, always slipping the 1st stitch, working 1 plain row and 1 purl row alternately.

To turn the Heel: Slip the first stitch, knit 15, knit 2 together, knit 1, turn the work; slip 1, purl 2, purl 2 together, purl 1, turn; slip 1, knit 3, knit 2 together, knit 1, turn; slip 1, purl 4, purl 2 together, purl 1, turn; slip 1, knit 5, knit 2 together, knit 1, turn; slip 1, purl 6, purl 2 together, purl 1, turn; slip 1, knit 7, knit 2 together, knit 1, turn; slip 1, purl 8, purl 2 together, purl 1, turn; slip 1, knit 9, knit 2 together, knit 1, turn; slip 1, purl 10, purl 2 together, purl 1, turn; slip 1, knit 11, knit 2 together, knit 1, turn; slip 1, purl 12, purl 2 together, purl 1, turn; slip 1, knit 13, knit 2 together, knit 1, turn.

The heel is now finished. Knit the 16 stitches, and proceed to pick up the 17 stitches down the side of the heel next to the needle just finished, knitting each stitch as it is raised; knit the 30 stitches that were left on to one needle for the front of the foot, and proceed to pick up 17 stitches on the other side of heel: then knit on to these half the stitches that were left at the top of the heel.

Knit 1 round: the 2nd decrease thus:

On the first side needle, knit to within 3 of the end, knit 2 together, knit 1, knit the front needle; 2nd side needle, knit 1, slip 1, knit 1, pass the slipped stitch over the knitted one, knit to end of needle.

Decrease in this manner every 2nd round until there are 15 on each of the side needles, reducing them to correspond with the front needle, making 10 decreasings for the instep.

Knit 48 or 50 rounds from the last decreasing for the length of foot and then decrease for the toe in the following way:

1st side needle; knit to within 3 of end, knit 2 together, knit 1.

Front needle: knit 1, slip 1, knit 1, pass the slipped stitch over, knit to within 3 of end, knit 2 together, knit 1.

2nd side needle: knit 1, slip 1, knit 1, pass the slipped stitch over, knit to end of needle.

11Decrease in this way with 2 rounds between, 4 times, then more rapidly, until you have only 9 stitches on the front needle and 9 on the 2 side needles, which must be placed on 1st needle. Hold the 2 needles side by side, parallel with instep, and darn off the stitches alternately.

Cast on 60 stitches. Knit 2, purl 2, until the sock is 17 inches long. Knit across plain; knit across purl; knit across plain; knit across purl. Knit 5, narrow 1 every 5th stitch to end of needle. Knit across purl; knit across plain; knit across purl. Knit 4, narrow 1 every 4th stitch to end of needle. Knit across purl; knit across plain; knit across purl. Knit 3, narrow 1 every 3rd stitch to end of needle. Knit across purl; knit across plain; knit across purl. Knit 2, narrow 1 every 2nd stitch to end of needle. Knit across purl; knit across plain; knit across purl. Knit 1, narrow 1, every other stitch to end of needle. Knit across purl; knit across plain; knit across purl. Knit across, narrow 1 every other stitch to end of needle. Knit across purl. Bind off. Sew up.

Cast on 84 stitches. (On the steel needles). Knit 2, seam 2, for 3 inches. Changing to the amber needles, knit 1 row, seam 1 row, for 7 inches. Begin in next row to narrow: knit 1, narrow, knit to within 3 stitches, narrow, knit 1, * seam 1 row, narrow in the next row; repeat from * twice. Seam 1 row, knit 1 row, until sock measures 13 inches, then begin narrowing for the toe. Narrow every 5th stitch. Seam 1 row, knit 1 row, seam 1 row. Next row, narrow every fourth stitch. Seam 1 row, knit 1 row, seam 1 row. Next row, narrow every 3rd stitch. Seam 1 row. Knit 1 row, narrow at each end. * Seam 1 row. Knit 1 row, narrow at each end, repeat from * 3 times, then narrow every stitch twice. Pull the yarn through stitches left on needle and fasten securely. Sew the edges of the sock together.

Cast on from 96 to 104 stitches according to size desired. Knit in garter stitch for 20 ribs or 40 rows, always slipping the first stitch. Bind off loosely, fold across the width, and sew up bottom and sides securely. Finish with a beading of crochet and a shell edge, run in elastic or ribbon, and draw up around ankle.

Cast on 80 stitches. Knit 2 plain and purl 2 for 4 inches. Then plain across one needle and purl across the other for rest of sock, being careful to knit on the right side and purl on the wrong. Knit 6 inches or until heel is reached.

Beginning on the right side knit 20 stitches, purl back to beginning of the needle, continue for 16 rows, then narrow one stitch each time at the beginning of the needle until you have 14 stitches on the needle. Bind off all but the last stitch. Take up the stitches on the side of the heel and knit across the needle. Purl back for the other side of the heel and continue as for the first half of heel, narrowing at the end of the needle until there are 14 stitches and binding off as before. Take up stitches on this side of heel, narrow one stitch on each side where heel joins the top until you have 70 stitches. Knit 6 inches, narrow once in 7 stitches, then knit 7 times across, narrow once in 6 stitches and knit 6 times across, and so on until you narrow every stitch, and continue until about 8 stitches remain, then bind off. Sew sock up the back and it is finished.

Cast 28 stitches on each of 3 needles, 84 stitches in all for the top of the leg. Join and make 30 rounds of ribbing by knitting 2 stitches and purling 132 stitches. Next purl 3 rounds, then knit 3 rounds plain. Repeat these last 6 rounds until the work measures 12 inches, then narrow for the toe of sock, as follows: knit 1, knit 2 together, knit plain until 3 stitches remain on first needle, then knit 2 together, knit 1. Repeat on each of the next 2 needles of round. Next round knit plain. Repeat the last two rounds until 4 stitches remain on each needle. Draw wool through all and fasten off on wrong side.

Set up 60 stitches, 20 on each of three needles. Knit 2 plain and 2 purl for 35 rows (4½ inches.) 36th row knit 4 plain stitches, knit 2 together; repeat this until the round is completed. There are now 50 stitches on the needles. Knit 50 rows plain until leg measures 11 inches. (6½ inches of plain knitting.) Take half the number of stitches (25) on first needle for the heel (leaving 12 and 13 stitches on the second and third needles for the instep), add on the 25 stitches, knit 1 row, purl 1 row alternately for 26 times (or 3 inches), always slipping the first stitch. Begin to turn heel on the wrong side, slip 1, purl 13, purl 2 together, purl 1.

Turn work over, slip 1, knit 4, slip 1, knit 1, and pass it over slipped stitch, knit 1. Turn, slip 1, purl 5, purl 2 together, purl 1. Turn, slip 1, knit 6, slip 1, and pass it over slipped stitch, knit 1. Continue working toward the sides of the heel in this manner, leaving 1 more stitch between decreases on every row until all the stitches are worked in. There should then be 15 stitches on the needle. Pick up 13 stitches on side of heel; now knit the 25 stitches on 2d and 3d needle on to one needle, which becomes your 2d needle; with your 3d needle pick up the 13 stitches on other side of heel, and knit 7 stitches off your 1st needle so that you will now have 21 stitches on the 1st needle, 25 stitches on the 2d needle, and 20 stitches on 3d needle. 1st needle (a) knit to within 3 stitches of end, knit 2 together, knit 1. 2d needle (b) knit plain. 3d needle (c) knit 1, slip 1, knit 1, 14pass slipped stitch over, knit plain to end of needle. Knit around plain (d).

Repeat a, b, c and d until you have 13 stitches on 1st needle—25 stitches on 2d, 12 stitches on 3d. Knit plain for 4½ inches. 1st needle (e) knit 10 stitches—knit 2 together, knit 1. 2d needle (f) knit 1, slip 1, knit 1, pass slipped stitch over, knit 19 stitches. Knit 2 together, knit 1. 3d needle (g) knit 1, slip 1, knit 1, pass slipped stitch over, knit 9 stitches, knit 2 rows plain (h).

Repeat e, f, g and h 5 times, then narrow every other row until you have 5 stitches on your 1st needle, 9 stitches on your 2d needle and 4 stitches on your 3d needle. Knit the 5 stitches on your 1st needle on to your 3d. Your work is now all on 2 needles opposite each other. Break off yarn leaving 12-inch end. Thread into worsted needle and proceed to weave the front and back together as follows:

Pass worsted needle through 1st stitch * of front knitting needle as if knitting and slip stitch off—pass through 2d stitch as if purling—leaving stitch on, pull thread through 1st stitch of back needle as if purling, slip stitch off, purl thread through 2d stitch of back needle as if knitting, leave stitch on. Repeat from * until all the stitches are off the needle.

Sock when finished should measure: Foot, from tip of heel to tip of toe, 11 inches. Leg, from tip of heel to top of leg, 14 inches.

Make chain of 50 stitches, work 49 single crochet on chain, chain 1, turn.

2nd row work 1 single crochet in each stitch of preceding row, always taking up the back loop to form a rib, chain 1, turn. Repeat this 2nd row until work measures 16 inches. Now work a row of single crochet on the side of the piece just made, working 1 single crochet, in each rib, work 8 rows of single crochet on this length, taking up the whole stitch of preceding row, with wrong side of work toward you, join with a row of slip stitch. Now work a row of single crochet at one end for the toe, work round and round, taking up the whole stitch, decreasing 3 stitches on every round until 15 stitches remain. Draw the end in and sew firmly together. Make second stocking to correspond.

Cast on 84 stitches. Rib for 3 inches in rounds of knit 2, purl 2. * Purl 3 rounds, knit 3 rounds plain. Repeat from * until work measures 14 inches, including the ribbing at the top.

The Toe—* Knit 1, knit 2 together, knit plain until within 3 stitches of the end of the needle, knit 2 together, knit 1. Repeat this narrowing on the other two needles. Knit 1 round plain. Repeat from * until you have 12 stitches left. Draw end of wool through these stitches and fasten securely on the wrong side.

With gray yarn cast on steel needles 86 stitches. First row: * knit 2, purl 2, repeat from * to end of row. Second row: * purl 2, knit 2, repeat from * to end of row. Repeat these two rows alternately having 8 rows gray, 4 rows white, 4 rows gray, 4 rows white, 4 rows gray and change to bone needles. Knit pattern as follows throughout sweater. First row: * knit 1, purl 1, repeat from * to end of row. Second row: * purl 1, knit 1, repeat from * to end of row. Repeat 2 rows alternately until back measures 18 inches from start. Slip 22 stitches on a spare needle, the next 42 stitches on another spare needle for collar and on the other 22 stitches, knit in rib, of knit 1, purl 1, for 8 rows over shoulder, cast on toward front 42 stitches and slip the other 22 stitches on needle. There must be 86 stitches on needle. Knit following pattern until front measures the same length as back, including the 4 rows gray, 4 rows white, 4 rows gray, 4 rows white, 8 rows gray, knit in rib of knit 2, purl 2, on steel needles, bind off loosely, sew up both side seams allowing about 10 inches for the armhole.

Sleeves.—On bone needle with gray yarn cast on 76 stitches and follow pattern in rib of knit 1, purl 1, until sleeve is required length less 3 inches, change to steel needles and knit 2 together at intervals until there are 54 stitches on needle. First row: * knit 2, purl 2, repeat from *. Second 16row: * purl 2, knit 2, repeat from *. Having 6 rows gray, 6 rows white, 6 rows gray, 6 rows white, 6 rows gray, bind off loosely and sew up sleeve and cuffs.

Collar—With steel needles pick up the 42 stitches from spare needle, 1 stitch from each of the 8 rows over the shoulders, and 42 stitches on front, there must be 100 stitches on needles, 32 stitches on each of 2 needles, 30 stitches on third needle, knit in rib of knit 2, purl 2, knitting 26 rounds gray, 6 rounds white, 6 rounds gray, 6 rounds white, 6 rounds gray, bind off loosely. Sew sleeves in armhole.

Cast on 60 stitches for back. 6 rows of plain knitting for border. Then knit one row plain, 1 row purl, for entire sweater.

Length of back to underarm, 14 inches. Add 45 stitches for sleeve. Knit across to end of other needle, add 45 stitches for other sleeve. Continue for 4 inches. Bind off 10 stitches in middle of sweater for neck. Knit 6 rows. Then, for opening in front, add 1 stitch every three rows until 10 stitches are added, which completes V neck. Repeat for other shoulder and front. Bind off 45 stitches for each sleeve, and knit front all in one, like back, finishing with 6 rows plain knitting.

For cuff, pick up stitches at end of sleeves, on four needles, and knit 2 purl 2 plain, for 3 inches. Sew up under arms and sleeves. Add loosely crocheted finish to neck, leaving opening large enough to pull easily over head.

17This sweater is like a cross in form, before sewing together. Care should be taken that sleeves are not too wide.

With the bone needles cast on 62 stitches, knit plain until back measures 14 inches, then slip the first 21 stitches off on extra needle, bind off the next 20 stitches for the neck, and on the remaining 21 stitches start the front. Knit 2 ribs then increase 1 stitch every other row toward the front until 4 stitches have been added, then cast on 12 stitches toward the front and work on this length until front measures 2½ inches, slip on to an extra needle and work second front (the 21 stitches which are already on extra needle). Now slip all the stitches on to one needle and work until front measures 3½ inches, cast on 6 stitches at each end for underarms, work on this length until front is as long as back. Sew up the underarms, leaving opening for armhole. With steel needles pick up 70 stitches around the neck, knit 4 inches and bind off, this forms the collar.

18The sleeves are made by casting on 35 stitches on the bone needles and increase 1 stitch every other row at one end until 16 stitches have been added, knit 32 rows without increasing then decrease in same manner until 35 stitches remain. With the steel needles pick up stitches on straight edge of the sleeves and knit 3½ inches and bind off.

With bone needles cast on 62 stitches. Knit plain for 13 inches, length of back. Leave 20 stitches each for shoulder. Bind off intervening stitches to shape the neck, increase 1 stitch every other row towards the front until 4 stitches are added, then cast on 20 stitches toward the front.

Right Front: Knit 6, rows begin the first buttonhole, knit 3 stitches, bind off 3. Next row cast on 3 stitches over the bound-off stitches and make the buttonholes every 30 rows. Knit 3½ inches, cast on 6 stitches for underarm. Knit 11 inches more; bind off. Left front like right front, omitting buttonholes. For the collar pick up 70 stitches with steel needles beginning one inch from each front, knit 4 inches, or as long as desired.

For the Sleeves—Cast on 35 stitches on bone needles and increase 1 stitch at beginning of every other row and only at the top of sleeve until you have increased 16 stitches. Then knit 35 rows without increasing and at same end where increasing was done, decreasing 1 stitch every other row until 16 stitches are decreased, leaving 35 stitches on needle; bind off.

With steel needles pick up the stitches at straight edge of sleeve for cuff and knit as long as desired. Bind off loosely, sew up sleeves, sew into sweater. Face the fronts with ribbon, work over buttonholes and sew buttons on opposite side to correspond.

Make a chain of 51 stitches. 1st row: single crochet 50 stitches, chain 1 to turn each end of row. 2d row: single crochet, taking up both loops of preceding row, continue back and forth until scarf measures 58 inches.

Make a chain of 50 stitches. 1st row: draw up a loop in 2d stitch from hook, draw up a loop in next stitch, yarn over, draw through all 3 loops on hook, draw up a loop in same stitch, draw up a loop in next stitch and repeat this from end to end of row, work 1 single crochet in last stitch, chain 2, turn. 2d row: draw up a loop in 1st stitch, draw up a loop in next stitch, yarn over, draw through all 3 loops on hook, draw up a loop in same stitch, repeat from end to end of row, work 1 single crochet in last stitch, chain 2, turn. Repeat row 2 until scarf measures 58 inches.

Cast on 50 stitches, these should measure at least 11 inches, and knit forward and back in plain knitting until muffler measures 68 inches.

Cast on 60 stitches, having 20 stitches on each of 3 needles. Knit 2, purl 2, for 3 inches. Now work all the stitches off on to one needle, knit 2, purl 2 for 2 inches, this is for the opening of the thumb; now divide the stitches on three needles again, knit 10 inches more and bind off.

Work a chain of 90 stitches, work 89 single crochet on chain, now work 24 rows of single crochet, always taking up the back loop of the preceding row, on the next row work 19 single crochet, chain 12 stitches, skip 12 stitches, work 1 single crochet in each of the remaining stitches. Work 24 rows more. Join with slip stitch.

Cast on 51 stitches, 18 on each of 2 needles, 15 on the 3d, knit 2, purl 2, for 3½ inches for the wrist; then knit plain for 1 inch, or 9 times around. Shift the stitches so that you have 17 on each needle and begin the thumb where the end of your yarn should start. Knit 1, increase as follows (insert the needle in the stitch, make a stitch in back of same stitch and make another stitch, now slip the stitch off the needle, this gives you 2 stitches in 1).

Knit plain until you come to last 2 stitches. On 3d needle, increase 1 and knit last one then knit round once, widening 1 stitch each side, until 24 stitches added for the thumb being careful always to make an extra stitch in the one you last made. When you have 24 stitches, knit one round until you come to where the thumb stitches begin; tie the 24 stitches on a string to hold until the finger part is done. Cast on 10 stitches on the needle where the yarn is, and knit once around. On the next round narrow one stitch at the beginning and end of the 10 stitches; do this for 5 rounds till you have again 17 stitches on each needle. The object of the 10 extra stitches is to form a gore. Knit plain for 3½ inches, begin to narrow, knit 2 together at beginning and end of each needle for 1 round. Knit a round plain, then a narrowing round, so on alternately until 2 stitches are remaining on each needle, break off your yarn. Leave the end long enough to thread a needle and draw through 6 stitches and fasten securely on wrong side. Now take the 24 stitches of the thumb and the 10 of the gore and put 18 stitches on one needle (10 of the gore and 4 on each side of it) and 8 on each of the other 2 needles. Knit 1 round plain. Then for each succeeding round, till the gore is gone, narrow 1 stitch at the beginning and end of the 10. Knit plain around for 1¾ inches and narrow as in the finger part. Make other mitten to correspond.

Chain 63, skip first chain. 1 single crochet stitch in each chain. 62 stitches in row. Second row: 1 single crochet in each stitch, taking up 21the front and back thread. Repeat second row until there are 48 rows in all. Join together with slip stitch 3 inches from each end, leaving 2 inches for thumb, join each end with slip stitch.

Chain 35, skip first chain and make 1 single crochet stitch in each chain. Second row: turn, 1 single crochet in the back thread of each stitch of preceding row to form rib. Repeat the second row until there are 50 rows, then join with slip stitch.

With double thread cast on 56 stitches, on three needles; 16 on the first and 20 on the other two. Knit 2, purl 2 for 6 inches.

Begin widening for thumb on needle with 16 stitches. Widen thus; insert needle in the first stitch, make a stitch, then in back of same stitch make another stitch; now slip stitch off needle; this gives you 2 stitches in one. Widen this way in first 2 stitches of needle with 16 stitches. Knit 1 round plain, next round widen in same way, 1 stitch each side of where you widened before. Then widen every other row until you have 24 stitches added for thumb, making 40 stitches on needle. Then knit 1 round, then knit around again until you come to where the thumb stitches begin. Take off the 24 extra stitches on a large safety pin.

Cast on 10 stitches on needle just used; knit 1 round. On the next round narrow 1 stitch at beginning and end of the 10 stitches. Do this until you have 56 stitches on needle (the same number on each as at first). Knit plain for 2 inches from bottom edge of gore.

Index Finger—Knit 10 stitches, slip all the stitches on safety pins except the last 9 stitches, use 3 needles, cast on 3 stitches. Knit 1¾ inches, knit 1, purl 1 for ½ inch. Bind off.

22Thumb—Take the 24 stitches of the thumb and the 10 of the gore, put 18 stitches on 1 needle (the 10 of the gore and the 4 on each side of it) and 8 stitches on each of the other 2 needles. Knit 1 round plain. Then on each succeeding round, until the gore is gone; narrow 1 stitch at the beginning and end of the 10. Knit plain for 1 inch. Rib as for finger. Bind off.

Three Fingers—Pick up all remaining stitches and the three extra stitches at bottom of finger. Shift stitches on needles so as to have 2 needles. Join at outside edge of hand. Knit 2½ inches and begin to narrow on outside of hand thus: Knit 2 stitches together at end of one needle and beginning of other. Knit 1 round, then narrow at same place (narrow every other row), 5 times. Knit 1 row plain, then narrow at beginning of every needle until there are 18 stitches on needle. Shift stitches so as to have 6 stitches on each needle. Then narrow on every needle (beginning and end) until 2 stitches are left on each needle. Draw yarn through these 6 stitches and fasten on wrong side.

Set up 44 stitches on 3 needles (1st needle 12 stitches, 2nd needle 16 and 3rd needle 16 stitches). Knit 2 plain and 2 purl for 30 rounds and knit the 31 and 32 rounds plain.

For the Thumb—On the 33d round knit 2, make increase of 1 stitch, knit 2, again make an increase of 1 stitch and finish the round plain. Knit 2 rounds plain and on 36th round knit 2, make an increase of 1, knit 4, increase 1 and finish round plain. Then knit 2 plain rounds. You will now have 38 rounds.

Start 39th round by knitting 2, increasing 1, knitting 6, increasing 1 and finish round plain. Again knit 2 plain rounds.

Start 42nd round by knitting 2, increasing 1, knitting 8, increasing 1 and finish as before. Then knit 2 plain rounds.

23Continue increasing every 3 rounds by knitting as directed with 2 plain rounds between until the 1st needle holds 28 stitches; leaving each time 2 more stitches between the increase (16 in all). You will now have 54 rounds. Knit 55th round plain.

Begin 56th round by knitting 4, purling 2, knit 2, purl 2, knit 2, purl 2, knit 2, purl 2, and finish round plain. Repeat this four times.

Begin 61st round by knitting 2 and cast off 16. Knit other 10 stitches on 1st needle and finish round plain.

Begin the 62nd round by knitting the 2 stitches left on 1st needle and continue, joining the 10 stitches on other side of the thumb and finish round plain. Knit 7 rounds plain.

Begin 70th round by knitting 2 and purling 2 all around and repeat 15 times. Then cast off as follows:

Knit 1 then place this stitch back on to the left-hand needle, knit 2 together * place the resulting stitch back on the left-hand needle, knit 2 together and repeat from *.

Cast on 48 stitches, knit 2, purl 2, for 20 rows, then knit plain for 30 ribs or 60 rows. Fold and slip stitch sides and bottom together. If desired this bath mitt may be knitted entirely in plain knitting for the 80 rows.

Boy’s Size

Cast on each of 2 needles 34 stitches and 36 stitches on 3rd needle, knit in rib of knit 1, purl 1, for 10 inches, bind off, draw all stitches together for top of crown.

Men’s Size

Cast on each of 2 needles 38 stitches and 40 stitches on 3rd needle, knit in rib of knit 1, purl 1, for 12 inches, bind off, draw all stitches together for top of crown.

Cut yarn in strands 4 inches long, tie in centre, fold in half and tie again and sew to top of crown.

With bone needles cast on 48 stitches, knit plain 48 rows (24 ribs), slip off on to spare needle. Work another piece to correspond; slip the stitches of both pieces on to 3 steel needles, having 32 stitches on each needle. Knit 2, purl 2 for 32 rows, bind off 28 stitches loosely to make the opening for the face. Knit 2, purl 2, backward and forward for 12 rows. Now cast on 28 stitches loosely and on 3 needles knit 2, purl 2 for 20 rows. Knit one round plain, * then knit 30 stitches plain, knit 2 together and repeat from * around and you will have decreased 3 stitches. Continue decreasing in these 3 places in each round until 27 stitches remain. Knit 2 rounds plain. Bind off and sew top together. If desired the piece for the front can be made longer, thus giving additional service of a muffler and chest protector.

Cast 30 stitches on one needle. Knit plain and increase once at the beginning of each row until 50 stitches are on the needle. Knit 5 more inches in plain knitting. Leave this piece and knit a second piece exactly like it.

25Now place the 2 pieces together, dividing the stitches on to 3 needles. Take a 4th needle and work in rounds, in ribbing of knit 2, purl 2, for 6 inches. Cast off 24 stitches over the centre of one of the cape pieces to make the opening for the face. Now work backward and forward in the rib for 2 inches. Cast on 24 stitches again, over the opening and join up the round. Work 4 more inches in the rib and finish the cap in plain knitting as follows:

1st round: knit each 19th and 20th stitches together. 2nd round: knit plain with no shaping. 3rd round: knit 18th and 19th stitches together and then repeat the 2nd round. 5th round: knit each 17th and 18th stitches together. 6th round: knit each 16th and 17th stitches together. Continue in this manner, decreasing each round until only 25 stitches remain. Run a thread through these and fasten off securely.

Cast on 100 stitches, 36 on one needle, 32 on each of the other two. Knit 2, purl 2, for 12 inches. Bind off 24 stitches for the face-opening. Rib back and forth for 2 inches, always slipping the end stitches to make the side of the face-opening firm. Cast on 24 stitches, and continue ribbing in rounds knit 2, purl 2, for 4 inches.

To decrease for the top of the Cap—1st round: knit each 19th and 20th stitch together. Knit 1 round plain. 3rd round: knit each 18th and 19th stitch together. Knit 1 round plain. 5th round: knit each 17th and 18th stitch together. Knit 1 round plain. 7th round: knit each 16th and 17th stitch together. Knit 1 round plain. Continue decreasing thus till there are 25 stitches left. Slip these off on to a thread, and fasten securely.

½ Pound Yarn in Gray, Khaki or Dark Blue or if desired the cap may be knitted with 4 coarse steel needles, casting on 100 stitches, and binding off 32 for the face-opening.

Cast on 95 stitches. Knit 2, purl 2, for 86 rows. Bind off 30 stitches for the face-opening. Knit 12 rows, always slipping the seam stitch. Cast on 30 stitches. Knit 30 rows plain. * Knit 4, narrow by knitting the 5th and 6th stitches together, repeat from * to end of row. Knit 6 rows plain. * Knit 3, knit 4th and 5th stitches together, repeat from * to end of row. 26Knit 5 rows plain. * Knit 2, knit 3rd and 4th stitches together, repeat from * to end of row. Knit 4 rows plain. * Knit 1, knit next 2 stitches together, repeat from * to end to row. Knit 3 rows plain. Bind off and sew up.

Chain of 4 stitches and join. 1st row: 2 stitches in each stitch (8 stitches). 2nd row: 2 stitches in each stitch (16 stitches). 3rd row: 2 stitches in one stitch and 1 stitch in next. 4th row: 2 stitches in one stitch and 2 stitches in next. 5th row: 2 stitches in one stitch and 4 stitches in next. 6th row: 2 stitches in one stitch and 6 stitches in next. 7th row: 2 stitches in one stitch and 8 stitches in next. 8th row: 2 stitches in one stitch and 10 stitches in next. 9th row: 2 stitches in one stitch and 12 stitches in next. 10th row: 2 stitches in one stitch and 14 stitches in next. 11th row: 2 stitches in one stitch and 16 stitches in next. 12th row: 2 stitches in one stitch and 17 stitches in next. 14th row: 2 stitches in one stitch and 17 in next. 13th row: 2 stitches in one stitch and 18 stitches in next. 14th row: 2 stitches in one stitch and 17 stitches in next. 15th row: 2 stitches in one stitch and 16 stitches in next. 16th row: 2 stitches in one stitch and 15 stitches in next. 17th row: 2 stitches in one stitch and 15 stitches in next. 18th row: Crochet one stitch all around, taking up every stitch except where the double stitch occurs. Crochet one stitch of the double stitch. (There should be 75 stitches when beginning to crochet straight). 19th row: Crochet plain one stitch for 43 rows, or until cap is 12 inches long.

Cast on 60 stitches. Knit plain (always slipping the first stitch) until the scarf measures 45 inches. Cast off.

A knitted cap for convalescent wear is made on medium bone needles of any soft dark wool. Cast on loosely 60 stitches, or equal to 18 inches. Knit plain 18 inches. Sew together, gather one end, and finish with a pompon.

For cap and scarf combined use ordinary Germantown wool and No. 4 bone needles. Cast on 70 stitches. Arrange on three needles, knitting plain all round. This should stretch to 22 inches. Work 1¼ yards all plain knitting. Cast off. Break off about 1 yard of wool, double it, use a tapestry needle or darner, and gather up each end, forming a ring.

To form cap, take one end and push inside, leaving about 11 inches to fall over the end. Then turn bottom of cap up again.

Set up 96 stitches (32 on each of 3 needles). Knit 2, purl 2 for 8½ inches. Then purl the first stitch, and knit the next 2 stitches together. Rest of needle plain. Proceed thus with back needle until you have 6 stitches on each needle. Draw your wool through the stitches and pull up.

Cast on 16 stitches, always slipping 1st stitch. Knit in plain garter stitch for 18 ribs. Increase 1 stitch each row as work is reversed until there are 34 stitches on the needle. Work 6 ribs of 34 stitches. Decrease 1 stitch each row until there are 16 stitches. Knit plain 35 ribs of 16 stitches. Increase as in first part of directions for second ear protector and decrease same until there are 16 stitches. Knit 17 ribs and sew together completing band. 1 hank of knitting worsted will complete 3 sets.

Cast on 72 stitches loosely to allow for stretching. Knit 2, purl 2, repeat from one side to the other until work measures 3 inches in depth. The ribbing should measure at least 12 inches across when laid flat without stretching. Next work back and forth in plain knitting for 6 inches more. Do not slip first stitch. These rows should measure 17 inches across. If they do not, heavier needles should be used. Make 3 more inches in ribbing as before, bind off loosely. Make another section in same manner and sew the 2 sections together at the sides to form a circular band.

Cast on 20 stitches and work 15 rows (30 ribs), now increase 1 stitch at each end of every row until there are 50 stitches on the needle. Work 30 ribs this length, then decrease in the same manner as you increased until 20 stitches remain. Bind off, pick up 88 stitches on the ends, knit 4 ribs plain, then knit 4, purl 4, for 35 rows. Bind off and work second end to correspond.

Set up 20 stitches. Knit 2, purl 2, for 2 inches; add 5 stitches on one end of needle, making 25 stitches on the needle and knit 1, purl 1, for 25 inches, always knitting the 1st stitch. Narrow to 20 stitches and knit 2, purl 2, for 2 inches. Sew 2 tape strips on one end 9 inches long, and on the other 2 strips 18 inches long.

Cast on 70 stitches, knit back and forth in plain knitting until cloth is about 10 inches square and bind off. Sew a loop of tape to one corner.

Cast on 56 stitches, knit 2, purl 2, and repeat until work is 4 inches deep. Then knit back and forth in plain knitting for 9½ inches or until work measures 13½ inches. Next decrease 2 stitches at beginning and end of each needle until there are 16 stitches left and bind off. Make another piece in same manner and sew together. Attach a 20-inch piece of tape to seam at one side of ribbing to tie around neck of bottle. This may be made of wool if desired.

Cast on 6 stitches. Knit 8 rows plain. Next row: knit 1, knit 2 into next stitch, knit plain to end of row. Increase thus a stitch in each row until you have 26 stitches in all. Knit 40 rows plain. Next row: knit plain till within 3 stitches of end of row, knit 2 together, knit 1. Decrease thus until you have 6 stitches on the needle, knit 8 rows plain, and bind off.

Pick up 60 stitches along one side, knitting each stitch as you take it up. Knit 3 rows. Knit 2, purl 2, for 28 rows. Bind off. Take up 60 stitches on the other side of the centre piece in the same manner, and finish as above.

If desired, the knee cap may be finished thus: after ribbing in rows of knit 2, purl 2 for 28 rows, knit 4 rows plain: next row * knit 1, increase 1 in second stitch, knit 2 together, and repeat from * to end of row. Knit 4 rows plain. Bind off, and run a piece of elastic through the holes.

Cast on 60 stitches; knit plain (always slipping 1st stitch) until it is 2 yards long and 10 or 12 inches wide. If desired last 10 inches may be narrowed to a point by knitting 3rd and 4th stitches from end of row together.

Comfort Bags should be made of washable material, preferably of some dark color and may contain any or all of the following articles.

Needle case containing 1 package of No. 5 needles and 1 package of darning needles. White sewing cotton No. 30. White, also gray or khaki darning cotton. Buttons, black, white, medium size, in bag 3 by 5 inches. Large thimble. Blunt-pointed scissors. Cake of soap. Card of safety pins, medium size. Paper of white and black pins. Small comb, tooth brush. Tooth paste. Soldiers mirror, round if possible. Handkerchiefs. Lead pencil. Writing pad, envelopes and post cards. Pocket knife. Shoe laces, black or brown.

Cast on 6 stitches knit 1 row plain, next row increase 1 stitch between every stitch and then 2 rows plain, increase 1 between every stitch and continue this until there are 96 stitches or 11 rows. Now knit 2 plain, 2 purl across the row and continue this ribbing for 6 inches. Now knit 12 stitches ribbing, bind off 24 stitches and take off the remaining stitches on a cord. Knit the 12 stitches of ribbing for 2 inches, take off on a cord, take up the stitches on opposite side of opening and knit in length to correspond with first side. Knit back and cast on 24 stitches and then take up the 12 stitches on cord and continue knitting the full 96 original ones in ribbing for 6 inches. Now take off half of these and knit for 3 inches. Bind off, take up the other stitches and knit 3 inches, bind off, sew on wrong side.

Note:—The directions call for an increase of 1 stitch between every stitch in specified rows, which would necessitate adding one at the end of each increasing row in order to have extra stitches between first and last stitch when the cap is sewed up. If this is done you will have 96 stitches in 11 rows.

This band is knit 2, purl 2, in rounds. Cast on each of 2 needles 47 stitches, and 46 on a third needle (140) stitches in all. Knit 2, purl 2, to a depth of 8 inches, then knit 8 stitches, bind off 3 stitches for back, knit 8 stitches, bind off the rest (94 stitches). For the shoulder straps, knit each of the 8 stitches back and forth in plain knitting for 5 inches, bind off. For the pinning piece at lower edge of the front, pick up 12 stitches knit back and forth in plain knitting for 1 inch, then decrease 1 stitch at beginning of every needle until 8 stitches are left, bind off. Pin the shoulder straps with a safety pin at the front.

Cast on 46 stitches on each of 2 needles and 48 on the 3rd needle making 32140 in all. Knit in ribs of knit 2, purl 2, till the band measures 8 inches, then knit 8, bind off 30 stitches for back, knit 8, bind off 20 stitches for underarm, knit 8, bind off 38 stitches for front, knit 8, bind off 20 stitches for underarm.

Shoulder Straps—Knit each of the 8 stitches back and forth in plain knitting for 2½ inches, then decrease 1 stitch each end of needle until there are 3 stitches left on needle, draw the wool through these 3 stitches, break off wool and fasten.

Pinning Piece in Middle of Front—Pick up 12 stitches, knit back and forth plain for 1 inch, then decrease 1 stitch each end of needle till there are 8 stitches left on needle and bind off. Sew a small button on the front shoulder straps and work a small buttonhole in the back straps by separating the stitches to form a hole and working around it.

With white wool cast on 18 stitches for lower part of back. In plain knitting knit back and forth for 20 rows or 10 ridges, turn, knit 2, increase 1 stitch, in next stitch; knit to within 3 stitches of the end, increase 1 stitch, knit 2, turn, knit 1 row plain. Repeat both these rows until there are 36 stitches on needles or 19 ridges in all. Knit 17 ridges without increasing.

Decrease in similar manner until there are 18 stitches on the needle. Pick up 45 stitches each side, having 108 stitches on the needle and knit 28 ridges.

To shape hood at the top in front, begin by slipping the 32 centre stitches on a needle, and knit back and forth, taking 1 stitch from each side needle at the end of every row until there are 48 stitches on centre needle. Knit 2 ridges all the way across and bind off.

For the Border—With color on right side pick up 78 stitches across the back and knit 8 ridges. Break off wool. With white wool knit 3 ridges and bind off. With color on wrong side pick up 130 stitches across the front border included, and knit 15 ridges. Break off wool. With white wool knit 3 ridges and bind off.

The border on front of hood is turned back. Sew on ribbon to tie with, small rosettes where fastened.

Cast on 100 stitches and knit in plain garter stitch for 87 rows: bind off. Fold the work together on the length, then on the width. The ends where the stitches were cast on and bound off are to be sewed in two separate seams which come in the middle of the back. Draw each of these seams down a little, at the top, to avoid a peak. Fold back the double edge at the front, for 3 inches. Run the ribbon for ties in from each end by threading in a tape needle and passing it in and out through the double thickness of the knitting. Place a small bow where the ends join in the back and trim the top with ribbon, as desired.

Cast on 50 stitches. Knit 6 ridges. Next row: knit 1, * thread over twice, knit 2 together. Repeat from * to end of row. This makes holes for ribbon or elastic. Next row: knit, thread over as 1 stitch. Knit 6 ridges. Knit 1 row. To shape knee, knit 28 stitches, turn, knit 6, turn, knit 8, turn, knit 10, and so on till all your stitches are used. Knit 26 ridges more, then narrow 1 stitch at each end of row, every other needle, 3 times. This is done on right side of work. Knit 6 ridges without decreasing.

Take the middle 16 stitches on separate needle, and knit 20 ridges to form instep. Pick up the stitches on both sides of instep, take all stitches on 1 needle, knit 1 ridge. Now knit 12 ridges, decreasing 1 stitch in every other row, at each side of toe. Knit sole together, and sew up the back. Finish with ribbon, elastic or crocheted cord.

Cast on 52 stitches. Knit 2, purl 2, for 39 rows. Knit 4 rows plain. Next row: increase 1 stitch on each end of needle, making 54 stitches on 34needle. Knit 4 rows plain. Knit 48 stitches, increase 1, knit 4, increase 1, turn work, knit across. Knit 48, increase 1, knit 6, increase 1, turn work, knit across. Knit 48, increase 1, knit 8, increase 1, turn work, knit across. Increase in this way until you have 68 stitches on the needle. Knit 6 rows.

To make the Thumb—Knit 20, turn work, knit 3 rows. Knit 2, narrow (by knitting 2 stitches together), knit 12, narrow, knit 2. Knit 9 rows. Knit 2, narrow, knit 10, narrow, knit 2, turn work, knit back. Knit 2, narrow, knit 3, narrow, knit 3, narrow, knit 2, turn work, knit back. Knit 1, narrow, knit 1, narrow, knit 1, narrow, knit 1, narrow, turn work, knit back. Knit 2, narrow, narrow, narrow, knit 1, turn work, knit back. Knit 1 row, bind off.

To make the Hand—Beginning at the side of the thumb, with the 48 stitches left on the needle, knit 17 ridges. Knit 3, narrow, knit 14, narrow, knit 6, narrow, knit 14, narrow, knit 3, turn work, knit back. Knit 3, narrow, knit 12, narrow, knit 6, narrow, knit 12, narrow, knit 3, turn work, knit back. Knit 3, narrow, knit 10, narrow, knit 6, narrow, knit 10, narrow, knit 3, turn work, knit back. Decrease in this way until there are 16 stitches on the needle, turn work, knit back. Knit 2, narrow, narrow, knit 4, narrow, narrow, knit 2, turn work, knit back. There should now be 12 stitches on the needle. Bind off and sew up.

Cast on 48 stitches, 16 on each of three needles. Knit 2, purl 2, for 25 rounds. This makes the wrist.

For the Hand. Knit plain for 5 rounds. 6th round: knit 2 stitches into the first stitch (1 stitch in the front and 1 stitch in the back of the stitch, thus increasing 1 stitch without making a hole), knit 1, knit 2 into the next stitch, knit plain to end of round. Knit 3 rounds plain. 10th 35round: knit 2 into 1st stitch, knit 3, knit 2 into the next stitch, knit plain to the end of round. Knit 3 rounds plain. 14th round: knit 2 into the 1st stitch, knit 5, knit 2 into the next stitch, knit plain to end of round. Knit 3 rounds plain. 18th round: knit 2 into 1st stitch, knit 7, knit 2 into next stitch, knit plain to end of round. Knit 3 rounds plain. 22nd round: knit 2 into 1st stitch, knit 9, knit 2 into next stitch, knit plain to end of round. Knit 3 rounds plain. 26th round: knit 2 into 1st stitch, knit 11, knit 2 into next stitch, knit plain to end of round. Knit 2 rounds plain. Cast on 3 stitches, slip the first 15 stitches for the thumb on to a piece of thread, and knit plain to the end of the round. There should now be 48 stitches in the round. Knit 14 rounds plain. * Knit 6, knit 2 together, repeat from * to end of round. Knit 2 rounds plain. * Knit 5, knit 2 together, repeat from * to end of round. Knit 2 rounds plain. * Knit 4, knit 2 together, repeat from * to end of round. Knit 2 rounds plain. * Knit 3, knit 2 together, repeat from * to end of round. Knit 2 rounds plain. * Knit 2, knit 2 together, repeat from * to end of round. Knit 1 round plain. * Knit 1, knit 2 together, repeat from * to end of round. Knit 2 together, until you have decreased to 6 stitches, slip them off on to a thread, and fasten securely on the wrong side.

To make the Thumb—Slip the 15 stitches on the thread off on to 3 needles, pick up the 3 stitches cast on: there will now be 18 stitches in the round. Knit 12 rounds plain. Knit 1, knit 2 together, knit 1, knit 2 together, and continue decreasing until there are 12 stitches in the round. Knit 1 row plain. Knit 2 together until you have decreased to 6 stitches, draw a thread through these stitches and fasten securely on the wrong side.

The mitten is large enough for a child 10 years of age. Cast on 55 stitches on 3 needles and knit one row plain. Then purl 3 rows. For the 5th row ** over, knit 1, over, knit 3, knit 2 together twice, knit 3 and repeat from ** 4 times over. Repeat the 5th row until the wrist is 2½ inches long, then rib 6 rows by, knit 2, purl 2, alternately. Knit the next row plain, widening 1 stitch in the middle of 1 needle for the thumb. Knit 4 rows, then widen 2 stitches in the next row, with 1 between. Widen every 5th row, increasing the number of stitches between the widenings by 2 each 36time until 11 stitches have been widened. Take off the 11 stitches with 4 more each side of the widenings for the thumb. Add 6 stitches for the gusset, and knit plain for 2½ inches, narrowing a stitch each side every 6th row. Place an equal number of stitches on each side of the needles, and narrow at the end of each needle every row until 4 are left on each needle, then knit 2 together until the stitches are all narrowed off. For the thumb take the widened stitches on 2 needles, with the 3rd needle take up the 6 added stitches and 1 each side making 8, then slip 3 from each of the others. Knit 1 row plain, then on the 3rd needle knit 2, slip 1, knit 1, bind off 1, knit 6, knit 2 together, knit 2. In each of the next 3 rows decrease 2 same as in the preceding row; this forms the gusset. Finish the thumb plain, narrowing off same as the mitten, at the end of each needle.

These mittens are started at the wrists and knit in rounds. Cast on to each of 2 needles 7 stitches and 6 on a third needle, making 20 stitches in all. Knit in ribs of knit 2, purl 2, for 18 rounds. 19th round: * Wool over twice, narrow. Repeat from * to end of round. In working back knit plain, dropping one of the wool-overs and knitting the other in order to form the holes for the ribbon. Knit 5 rounds in plain knitting. 26th round: Begin to increase for the thumb. Knit to within the 1st of the end of the round; increase 1 stitch. Knit 2 rounds without increasing. 29th round: Knit to within 2 stitches of the end of round, increase 1 in each stitch. Knit 3 rounds without increasing. 33rd round: Knit to within 4 stitches of the end of round; increase 1, knit 2; increase 1. Knit 3 rounds without increasing. 37th 37round: Knit to within 6 stitches of the end of round; increase 1, knit 4, increase 1. Knit 6 rounds without increasing, having 6 stitches between the increasing points, or 8 stitches for the thumb, having 27 on the 3 needles, pass a thread through the 8 stitches, knitted for the thumb and tie it. Continue to knit round and at the end of the 1st round cast on 4 stitches, having 23 stitches on the needles. 2nd round: Knit to within 4 stitches of the end of round, narrow, narrow. Knit 1 round without decreasing. 4th round: Knit to within 2 stitches of the end of round, narrow. Knit 16 rounds without decreasing. The hand is decreased as follows: 1st round: narrow, knit 3, narrow, knit 3, narrow, knit 3, narrow, knit 3 and knit 3 rounds without decreasing. 4th round: narrow, knit 2, narrow, knit 2, narrow, knit 2, narrow, knit 2 and knit 2 rounds without decreasing. 7th round: narrow 6 times, draw the wool through these 6 stitches, draw together. Break off wool and fasten on wrong side. Now finish the thumb by taking the 8 stitches off the thread on to 2 needles and pick up the 4 stitches, which were cast on for the hand. Knit 1 round, decreasing twice, where the 4 stitches were picked up; having 10 stitches for the thumb. Continue to knit the thumb round for 7 rounds; then decrease as follows: knit 2, narrow, knit 2, narrow, knit 2. Knit 2 rounds without decreasing. 11th round: Narrow 4 times, draw together, break off wool and fasten on wrong side. Draw the ribbon through the holes at wrist and tie. Make the other mitten to correspond.

Cast 16 stitches on each of 3 needles, knit 1 round plain. 2nd round: * over, knit 1, repeat from *. 3rd round: knit plain. 4th round: knit 2 together the entire round. 5th round: knit plain. Repeat from the 2nd round until the wrist is 2 inches wide. Rib 10 rounds by knit 2, purl 2. The rest of the mitten is plain knitting, Knit for about 1¼ inches by widening 1 stitch each side every 4th round. Then knit about ¾ of an inch without widening, then begin narrowing at the end, knit 10 rounds by narrowing 1 each side every alternate row, then with an equal number of stitches on each needle narrow 1 stitch at the end of each needle in every row until the stitches are all narrowed off. Finish the edges of the wrist with a chain of knitting silk.

Cast on each of 2 needles 12 stitches and on the third needle 14 stitches and knit in rib of knit 1, purl 1, for 5 rounds, decrease 1 stitch. 6th and 7th round purl. 8th round: * purl 2, knit 3, repeat from * to end of round. 9th and 10th rounds: same as 8th round. 11th round: * purl 2, over, knit 3 together, over, repeat from * to end of round. Repeat from 8th to 11th rounds inclusive until there are 5 rounds of holes, then purl 2 rounds, knit 1 round. Next round: * over, narrow, knit 3, repeat from * knit to end of round. This completes the fancy pattern on top of mitten. First round: knit and second round purl, and repeat first and second rounds till there are 18 ridges. 37th round: * knit 7, narrow, repeat from * to end of round. 38th round: knit and purl 39th round. Knit 40th round and purl 41st round. 42nd round: * knit 5, narrow, repeat from * to end of round. 43rd round knit, and knit and purl 44th round. 45th: * knit 3, narrow, repeat from * to end of round. Break off wool and draw through all the stitches left, sew firmly with white wool. Crochet a picot on top of mitten and draw ribbon through holes at wrist, to tie. Make other mitten to correspond.

Begin with 40 stitches. Knit 2, plain and 2 purl for 4 inches for wristband. Knit 4 rows plain, knit 18, widen 1, knit 2, widen 1, knit 18. Knit 18, widen 1, knit 4, widen 1, knit 18, and continue in this way until you have 16 stitches between the widenings. This widening is for the thumb. Take on a separate needle. Put all other stitches on 1 needle, and knit 20 rows plain. Narrow 1 in every row, on each end and in the middle of needle, until you have 3 stitches left, bind off and sew up.

To finish Thumb.—Knit 15 rows, pull your thread through stitches, pull together, and sew up.

Cast on 78 stitches. Knit 2, purl 2, till ribbing measures 2¾ inches. (About 44 or 45 rounds.) Knit 1 round plain, purling the last stitch of the third needle together with the first stitch of the following needle as you finish the round. This makes the seam stitch and is to be purled in each round. Knit 20 rounds plain, purling the seam stitch. 21st round: * knit 2, knit 2 together, knit plain till within 5 stitches of the end, slip 1, knit 1, pass the slipped stitch over the knitted one, knit 2, purl the seam stitch. Knit 5 rounds plain *. Repeat between the * * 5 times, or until you have 65 stitches on the three needles. Knit 20 rounds plain. This makes the ankle.

The Heel—On the first needle, which should have 19 stitches, knit 17 stitches and slip the remaining 2 stitches on to the second needle; turn the work and slip the first stitch, purl 16, knit 1, purl 17. This should leave 35 stitches on the needle to make the heel. Divide the remaining stitches equally upon 2 needles (there should be 15 on each needle), and leave them for the present. Beginning with the needle containing 35 stitches, * slip 1, knit 16, purl 1, knit 17. Slip 1, purl 16, knit 1, purl 17 *. Repeat between * * 12 times, which should give 28 rows and completes the flap of the heel.

To turn the Heel—Knit 20, slip 1, knit 1, pass the slipped stitch over the knitted one, knit 1, turn; slip 1, purl 6, purl 2 together, purl 1, turn; slip 1, knit 7, slip 1, knit 1, pass the slipped stitch over, knit 1, turn; slip 1, purl 8, purl 2 together, purl 1, turn, slip 1, knit 9, slip 1, knit 1, pass the slipped stitch over, knit 1, turn; slip 1, purl 10, purl 2 together, purl 1, turn; slip 1, knit 11, slip 1, knit 1, pass the slipped stitch over, knit 1, turn; slip 1, purl 12, purl 2 together, purl 1, turn; slip 1, knit 13, slip 1, knit 1, pass the slipped stitch over, knit 1, turn; slip 1, purl 14, purl 2 together, purl 1, turn; slip 1, knit 15, slip 1, knit 1, pass the slipped stitch over, knit 1, turn; slip 1, purl 16, purl 2 together, purl 1, turn; slip 1, knit 17, slip 1, knit 1, pass the slipped stitch over, knit 1, turn; slip 1, purl 18, purl 2 together, purl 1, turn; This should leave 21 stitches on the needle.

Gussets—Knit these 21 stitches plain, and on the same needle pick 40up 15 stitches along the left-hand side of the flap, knitting each stitch as you pick it up; knit the 30 stitches on the instep needle; and on the third needle pick up 15 stitches on the right-hand side of the heel flap, knitting each stitch as you pick it up, and also on to this needle knit 11 stitches from the first needle. You should then have 25 stitches on the first needle, 30 on the second, and 26 on the third. Knit 1 round plain. * On first needle knit plain until within 3 stitches of the end of the needle, knit 2 together, knit 1, knit across second needle, on third needle knit 1, slip 1, knit 1, pass the slipped stitch over, knit plain to end of round. Knit 1 round plain *. Repeat between * * till you have 15 stitches on the first needle, 30 on the second, and 16 on the third,—61 in all. Knit 25 to 30 plain rounds for foot-length.

To make the Toe. * Knit to within 3 stitches of the end of the first needle, knit 2 together, knit 1; on second needle knit 1, slip 1, knit 1, pass slipped stitch over, knit to within 3 stitches of the end, knit 2 together, knit 1; on third needle, knit 1, slip 1, knit 1, pass the slipped stitch over, knit to end of round. Knit 1 round plain *. Repeat between * * until you have 6 stitches on the first needle, 12 on the second, and 7 on the third. Bind off, turn the sock wrong side out, and sew up securely.

Cast on 70 stitches. Rib for 3½ inches in rows of knit 1, purl 1. Knit plain rounds to make the leg, or it may be plain knitting, no narrowing.

To make the Heel. Put 40 stitches on one needle for the heel, and 15 on each of the other two needles to leave for the instep. On the heel needle alternately knit and purl for 38 rows, slipping the end stitch every time.

To close the heel, 1st row plain, 2d row knit 15, slip 1, knit 1, pass the slipped stitch over, knit 6, knit 2 together, knit 1, turn; slip 1, purl 8, purl 2 together, purl 1, turn; slip 1, knit 9, knit 2 together, knit 1, turn; slip 1, purl 10, purl 2 together, purl 1, turn; slip 1, knit 11, knit 2 together, knit 2 together, knit 1, turn; slip 1, purl 12, purl 2 together, purl 1, turn: slip 1, knit 13, knit 2 together, knit 1, turn; slip 1, purl 14, purl 2 together, purl 1, turn; slip 1, knit 15, knit 2 together, knit 1, turn; * slip 1, purl 16, purl 2 together, turn; slip 1, knit 16, knit 2 together, turn; repeat from * until the heel stitches are all in one needle, narrowing in the center of the last row to reduce the number of stitches to 16. Pick up 20 stitches along the side of the heel flap, knitting them as you pick them up, then knit across the instep, taking the 30 stitches on to one needle, pick up and 41knit 20 stitches from the second side of the heel flap, and knit off on to this third needle 8 stitches from the heel needle. The number of stitches on the 2 side needles will now be equal, but the stitches counted together will exceed the number on the instep needle.

To make the Gussets—Beginning on the first foot needle, knit 1 round plain. 2nd round: knit 24, knit 2 together, knit 2, knit instep needle plain, knit 2, slip 1, knit 1, pass the slipped stitch over, knit 24. Knit 1 round plain. 4th round: knit 23, knit 2 together, knit 2, knit instep needle plain, knit 2, slip 1, knit 1, pass the slipped stitch over, knit 23. Knit 1 round plain. 6th round: knit 22, knit 2 together, knit 2, knit instep needle plain, knit 2, slip 1, knit 1, pass the slipped stitch over, knit 22. Knit 1 round plain. 8th round: knit 21, knit 2 together, knit 2, knit instep needle plain, knit 2, slip 1, knit 1, pass the slipped stitch over, knit 21. Knit 1 row plain. 10th round: knit 20, knit 2 together, knit 2, knit instep needle plain, knit 2, slip 1, knit 1, pass slipped stitch over, knit 20. Knit 1 round plain. 12th round: knit 19, knit 2 together, knit 2, knit instep needle plain, knit 2, slip 1, knit 1, pass the slipped stitch over, knit 19. Knit 1 round plain. 14th round: knit 18, knit 2 together, knit 2, knit instep needle plain, knit 2, slip 1, knit 1, pass the slipped stitch over, knit 18. Knit 1 round plain. 16th round: knit 17, knit 2 together, knit 2, knit instep needle plain, knit 2, slip 1, knit 1, lift the slipped stitch over, knit 17. There should now be 70 stitches in the round. Knit plain rounds until the foot measures 7½ inches from the back of the heel, then knit 5 rounds plain.

To make the Toe—* Slip 1, knit 1, pass the slipped stitch over, knit 5, repeat from * to end of round. Knit 5 rounds plain. * Slip 1, knit 1, pass the slipped stitch over, knit 4, repeat from * to end of round. Knit 4 rounds plain. * Slip 1, knit 1, pass the slipped stitch over, knit 3, repeat from * to end of round. Knit 3 rounds plain. * Slip 1, knit 1, pass slipped stitch over, knit 2, repeat from * to end of round. Knit 2 rounds plain. * Slip 1, knit 1, pass slipped stitch over, knit 1, repeat from * to end of round. Knit 1 round plain. * Slip 1, knit 1, pass slipped stitch over, repeat from * to end of round. Knit 1 round plain. Run wool through the remaining stitches, and fasten securely.

4 To 6 Years

Set up 73 stitches (24 each on 3 needles) knit 9 rounds plain. 10th round: * Bring the wool forward as in purling and knit 2 together repeat from * then knit to end of round. Knit 11th round plain and continue for 8 rounds. 20th round: fold over the set up round of knitting on inside, it must exactly meet the last round. Knit the 1 stitch of the 19th round and 1st set up stitch together; 2nd stitch of 19th round and 2nd set up stitch together and continue all around. This makes a hem and the 10th round forms a scalloped edge. Great care must be taken to get 1st and last rounds even. Now knit 3 rounds plain and the 24th to the 48th round (inclusive) also knit plain. Work in ribbing on 49th round by knitting 3 and purling 1 alternately and continue to rib 76 rounds like 49th round. The next round work the ribbing as far as the 4th plain rib on the 3rd needle; of this rib knit the first 2 stitches together, knit 1, purl 1 (for the seam stitch), knit 1, slip 1, knit 1, draw the slipped stitch over and then work the rest of the round as usual. Knit the next 3 rounds without decreasing and after every 3rd round knit together the 3rd and 2nd stitches before the seam stitch and the 2nd and 3rd stitches after it. You should have 16 stitches on the needle. Now work 24 more rounds of ribbing without decreasing and divide the stitches so as to have 15 stitches before the seam and 16 after it; making 32 in all. The other 2 needles should each have 16 stitches. Knit these 32 stitches on the back needle; turn the work and purl 1 row and knit 1 row alternately, until you have 12 rows of these stitches.

To Work Heel—Knit 2 together at the beginning and end of every plain row until you have 12 stitches left. In every following row pick up the next stitch down the side after the last worked stitch on the needle and knit or purl, according to the row, till all the stitches are taken up and the heel is closed. On reaching top of 12 row pick up the stitches down the side of these rows. Go on ribbing as usual on the 2 other needles; pick up the stitches at side of 12 following rows then knit heel round to the front ribbing. Continue this ribbing until toe is reached.

For the Instep—Decrease at each side of heel every other row by knitting together 2 stitches after the last purl rib. Knit the heel except the last 2 stitches before the first purled rib; slip the 1st of these, knit the next stitch and draw slipped stitch over. Go on decreasing until the stitches on the heel needle are reduced to 32 as they were in the ankle before beginning 43the heel. Knit 30 rounds plain knitting on sole and ribbing on front of foot. After this continue ribbing and do plain knitting.

To Shape Toe—In every other round decrease at beginning of right-hand sole needle and at end of left-hand sole needle; also at each end of front needle. Knit 2 together, knit 1. Repeat these 2 decreasings on the front needles. When you have reduced the stitches to 8 on the sole and front, put needles together and cast off the stitches. Be sure to carry end of wool to wrong side of a wool needle, and fasten by running it in and out before cutting off.

The Ambulance or Hospital blankets can be made up of all colors of wool, several colors in one block or plain blocks. The idea is to use up wool left from garments made of bright colors. The Cross and Flag centres were designed by Mrs. Leeds.

56 by 78 Inches

Single crochet 8 strips—7 inches wide—56 inches. Length per strip—78. Sew strips together on right side with black patent thread. Single crochet each seam with black 4-Fold wool. Finish edge with small shell having 5 double crochet in each shell.

Crocheted blocks—6½ by 6½ inches.—108 blocks. Cross in centre crocheted in one piece is equal to 5 blocks. 5 strips of 9 blocks each above the cross. 4 strips of 9 blocks each below the cross. 4 blocks in each strip to right and left above and below center of cross. 3 blocks each side of center of cross. Sew blocks in strips on right side with black patent thread. Single crochet each seam with 4 black fold wool. Edge with small shell.

Join and finish same as in directions for crocheted blanket, cut a piece of cardboard measuring 6½ by 6½ inches and knit blocks or crochet blocks to fit cardboard. I find it is the safest way to measure correctly as everyone does not knit or crochet alike.

Blanket required 84 blocks 6½ by 6½ inches, and Flag in the center, using 4 strips of 9 blocks each above, and 4 strips of 9 blocks each below the flag. Two strips 3 blocks each on each side of Flag making 6 blocks each side of Flag.

Blue block 6½ by 8 inches—43 stitches, 35 ribs, 48 stars.

Why not send one or a dozen or more copies of this NEW song book to the soldiers and sailors?

You will want a copy of the Khaki Song Book in your own home.

THE FLEISHER YARNS

The recognized standard for personal, military and naval wear. Endorsed by the leading organizations. Put up in hanks and in the new full weight, diamond-wound balls, ready for use.